aftermarket tie rods?
aftermarket tie rods?
is there any good aftermarket tie rods i can get that are better then stock replacement? i need to start rebuilding my front end, and i want to use the best parts.. not super expensive, but better then stock if possible. thanks!
Or if you plan to lower your car, you can correct the geometry of your tierods with the Baer bumpsteer kit. Dont want to read about people who bought new Moog tierods and a bumpsteer kit and then have to sell the Moog tierods off later.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
I'm thinking about making my own tie rods using aircraft rod ends. I'm just not sure what size rod ends would be strong enough to hold up on a 3500 pound street driven car.
I own a machine shop and make an adapter for one of my customers that builds tubular replacement front a-arms for Yamaha Banshee's. It's got a taper on one end to match the spindle hole, and the other end is male to slip into the rod end, and is drilled for a 1/2 x 20 bolt. I would think the rod ends would be more responsive to driver input that the stock tie rod ends are.
Anyway your post got me to thinking, which in my case is very dangerous!!
I own a machine shop and make an adapter for one of my customers that builds tubular replacement front a-arms for Yamaha Banshee's. It's got a taper on one end to match the spindle hole, and the other end is male to slip into the rod end, and is drilled for a 1/2 x 20 bolt. I would think the rod ends would be more responsive to driver input that the stock tie rod ends are.
Anyway your post got me to thinking, which in my case is very dangerous!!
Originally posted by alloy
I'm thinking about making my own tie rods using aircraft rod ends. I'm just not sure what size rod ends would be strong enough to hold up on a 3500 pound street driven car.
I own a machine shop and make an adapter for one of my customers that builds tubular replacement front a-arms for Yamaha Banshee's. It's got a taper on one end to match the spindle hole, and the other end is male to slip into the rod end, and is drilled for a 1/2 x 20 bolt. I would think the rod ends would be more responsive to driver input that the stock tie rod ends are.
Anyway your post got me to thinking, which in my case is very dangerous!!
I'm thinking about making my own tie rods using aircraft rod ends. I'm just not sure what size rod ends would be strong enough to hold up on a 3500 pound street driven car.
I own a machine shop and make an adapter for one of my customers that builds tubular replacement front a-arms for Yamaha Banshee's. It's got a taper on one end to match the spindle hole, and the other end is male to slip into the rod end, and is drilled for a 1/2 x 20 bolt. I would think the rod ends would be more responsive to driver input that the stock tie rod ends are.
Anyway your post got me to thinking, which in my case is very dangerous!!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
I was thinking about 3/4" rod ends. But for the good ones with jam nuts, they are $50 each. That's $200 for 4 rod ends. Then I have to make the tie rod on my turning center. So not sure if the performance gain would be worth it. But sure would look cool though. If I did this, I'd love to be there when the alignment shop first saw them. I'm sure the look on their faces would be priceless.
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Originally posted by breathment
can the baer bumpstop kits be used on a stock height car?? so when i lower it in the future i won't have to buy more parts?
can the baer bumpstop kits be used on a stock height car?? so when i lower it in the future i won't have to buy more parts?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,577
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by alloy
I'd love to be there when the alignment shop first saw them. I'm sure the look on their faces would be priceless.
I'd love to be there when the alignment shop first saw them. I'm sure the look on their faces would be priceless.

gotta love the modified suspension
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
That's funny. About 15 years ago a buddy of mine had a 69 Z28 with the DZ 302 engine, and took it in for some work . He was sitting at a burger joint and saw some guy in his car doing a burnout at a stop light. Boy, there was hell to pay when he got to the shop where the car was. I know, I drove him there. Man he was pissed!!!!!
Then, of all things he didn't put anti freeze in the engine that winter and let the block freeze and break. I got the motor for $150, got another block, rebuilt it, had the short block and heads with intake sitting in my garage, and some a**holes stole it, and cleaned my garage out. Never did find it. I think it was some guys that were there buying a muncie from me a couple of weeks prior to the break in.
Then, of all things he didn't put anti freeze in the engine that winter and let the block freeze and break. I got the motor for $150, got another block, rebuilt it, had the short block and heads with intake sitting in my garage, and some a**holes stole it, and cleaned my garage out. Never did find it. I think it was some guys that were there buying a muncie from me a couple of weeks prior to the break in.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: www.thirdgentech.com
Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Moog tie rods and ball joints.
MAKE SURE you replace the crappy stock adjusting sleeves for solid sleeves. Makes a considerable difference.
MAKE SURE you replace the crappy stock adjusting sleeves for solid sleeves. Makes a considerable difference.
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