My car has been parked for a while because of a problem it's been having, and I think I've traced it to the front wheel bearings. If you drive it, the front passenger side wheel kinda clunks. I pulled the wheel, and the hub was loose, so I tightened it up, and drove it again. It was fine for about 50ft, then started doing the same thing, so I checked and it was loose again.

Someone suggested it was the bearings, so I was wondering how long it would take to swap in new ones, how much they cost and where the best place to get new ones would be(if it even matters)

 

When you retightened the bearings, did you put a new cotter pin through the castle nut?? If you don't, it WILL loosen on you every time!! Don't drive it like that!!! If you have, more than likely you have either shredded the bearings, or incurred some sort of damage. I'd take it all apart and do a very thorough inspection on everything, spindles, bearings, races, etc.

GM uses tapered bearings, which means they should be tightened while under a moving load.

Provided either you have either replaced the bad bearings, or they are still good, and new bearing grease in the bearings:

While the car is up on stands, tighten the castle nut just finger tight, then while spinning the hub/rotor/tire (if you put it back on temporarily) and tighten the castle nut to 14 ft/lbs. Then back the nut off just to where it breaks loose, then tighten again to 15 inch/pounds (strong finger tight) and put the cotter pin through the nut and spindle slots. If you have to tighten or loosen the nut to get to the hole in the spindle, don't go any further than 1 slot width. Put the dust cap back on, and THEN go for a test drive. Should not loosen anymore!

This is all in the manual. You DO have one of those, don't you?

Hth,

 

see above, you don't want to **** this up. Torqueing of wheel bearings is simple if you know how to do it. If you don't it could get expensive. Under no circunstances should you drive the car without the cotter pin in place and you should replace them every time ( they are one use only) go buy a handfull of 1/8 x 2inch cotter pins and put them in your tool box. If you do decide to replace the bearings you should replace the races too, they come with the new bearings ( bearings aren't expensive ) but from the sound of it you will need help with the races, they are pressed into the rotor and must be removed with a hammer and punch. to install the new ones i grind the old ones down to make them small enough to go in with out interfearance and use them to drive the new ones

 

You can buy new rotors and bearing for about $90 total from advanced auto. I did it last week.

If you are replacing bearings only you may not be able to get the race out of the rotor.

You should not run a new bearing on an old race.

 

Don't forget to replace the bearing seals as well.