motor plate
motor plate
was checking the solid mount thread and the motor plate was brought up (Stephen I think). I too am looking at the plate. anyone have pictures installed and at what performance rate are they actually needed?
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
From: Germantown, MD USA
Car: 87 T/A
Engine: TPI 350 ci
Transmission: 5 speed
if you're making this a track only car, putting out about a gazzillion HP, then a motor plate is the way to go.
It is not really for a street car. All that vibration and noise that the engine and trans make will be fed back thru the chassis.
It is not really for a street car. All that vibration and noise that the engine and trans make will be fed back thru the chassis.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Also a street car, with all the accessories hanging off the front of the engine, will get in the way of the motor plate.
I found the pics I was looking for. It was a bunch from Guido's roll cage install in the racing forum. His pics have the mounting plates on the front frames where the motor plate will bolt to. That's what I wanted to see
I'm converting to a front plate for a couple of reasons. It takes the stress off the sides of the engine block that could distort the cylinders. It's easier to get at the block coolent drains. It's easier to mount aftermarket things on the plate. The motor plate fits behind the water pump and also attaches to the lower front mount holes in the block.
Once I get the engine installed again and sitting on the solid mounts, I'll mock up the motor plate to see where it needs to be attached to the frame rails. The only things I need to remount is an alternator and a smog pump converted for crankcase ventilation. Instead of a water pump, I'll have fittings mounted in the motor plate where the water pump usually mounts going to an external pony pump for a water pump. Don't forget, this is a full race car and doesn't need to drive around for hours. Once the plate is bolted onto everything, I'll pull the engine again and remove all the mounts off the side of the engine and crossmember.
I found the pics I was looking for. It was a bunch from Guido's roll cage install in the racing forum. His pics have the mounting plates on the front frames where the motor plate will bolt to. That's what I wanted to see
I'm converting to a front plate for a couple of reasons. It takes the stress off the sides of the engine block that could distort the cylinders. It's easier to get at the block coolent drains. It's easier to mount aftermarket things on the plate. The motor plate fits behind the water pump and also attaches to the lower front mount holes in the block.
Once I get the engine installed again and sitting on the solid mounts, I'll mock up the motor plate to see where it needs to be attached to the frame rails. The only things I need to remount is an alternator and a smog pump converted for crankcase ventilation. Instead of a water pump, I'll have fittings mounted in the motor plate where the water pump usually mounts going to an external pony pump for a water pump. Don't forget, this is a full race car and doesn't need to drive around for hours. Once the plate is bolted onto everything, I'll pull the engine again and remove all the mounts off the side of the engine and crossmember.
Moderator

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Another thing required with a motor plate is travel limiters. Unlike engine mounts on the side of the block, a motor plate will flex under hard accelleration. This can force the engine/tranny back which can cause many problems such as broken tranny cases.
A travel limiter is a threaded tube with heim joints on both ends. One end attaches to the side of the block. The other end goes towards the back and attaches to the frame. This will keep the engine from moving front to rear.
S&W race cars sell block limiter kits. Properly installed there should be one on both sides of the block.
A travel limiter is a threaded tube with heim joints on both ends. One end attaches to the side of the block. The other end goes towards the back and attaches to the frame. This will keep the engine from moving front to rear.
S&W race cars sell block limiter kits. Properly installed there should be one on both sides of the block.
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