Im gettin ready to purchase some, and i would like to know what kind you all use, and any tips you have, and how well they went in, and work. thanks


Kevin

 

i ordered the south side machine connectors from summit p# SSM-1415. they are the weld on type and fit right up without any additional mods they are priced at 157.39. ive heard its better to go with the weld-on rather than the bolt on because of hole elongations and all that wonderfull crap.

 

i was looking at a post that was also on this page and you might want to look into this place for gettin a set too http://www.alstonracing.com
sfc work great, its a much less squeaky and rattling ride

 

yeah i want weld in's. i plan on having my car for a while, and i dont want elongated holes

 

do the brands really have any differences in them? i mean they're all pretty much the same, square tubes right? whats the difference besides the price?

 

well there are different thicknesses, clearance differences, different material types, some wont work with certain exhaust setups, some require floor board cutting, etc. but you are right; they all are basically just square tubing.

 

SPOHN............................ look up:hail: the SFC King..:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

i made mine but if i were buying i'd go with spohn

 

I've got South Side Machine ones and I love them. They fit great and they double as a jacking rail. The Spohn's look kick ***, and I'm sure they do kick said ***, but the last thing I needed was another tubular part to keep clean & shiny (like my panhard bar, rear lca's ans soon my torque arm). I also like the fact that tying my future roll bar into the SSM ones will be cake, since they are flat instead of tubular. It really doen't matter which weld in connectors you get, just get them. They all do pretty much the sme thing and as long as they weld in, they all do it well.

 

I think I read in one of the posts that its important to have the connectors installed by a frame shop to assure that the vehicle is perfectly level during installation. Is something like that critical?

 

Parrydise7- in response to your question about keeping the car level:
I put in the SSM weld-ins- which are working out well.

I'd keep the car level, but more importantly, make sure that if you do this work with the car up on jack stands that the stands are supporting the vehicle at the front A-arms and Rear axle.

I initially had supported my car with jack stands placed behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels (on the subframe). I noticed that, when the car was up like this the drivers door rubbed when opening and closing. The body was flexing.
I moved the jack stands to under the A-arms and the rear axle and checked the door (no rub this time). Then I welded in the connectors.

I forgot to add- if the shop has a drive-on lift and the car is sitting on all 4 wheels during installation- I imagine that would be the best case scenario. If the hoisting method is any different I'd ask them to check the doors for any rubbing before doing the actual welding.
I felt really fortunate to have found that the doors were rubbing before welding instead of after.
Being a new member to this site- I wish I had found it before performing all the various mods to my car. The quality and quantity of info here is awesome.

 

Gracias!

 

I just got Spohn's today, so I havn't installed them, but they look like high quality pieces!