I just got done replacing my rotors with Qualitee (OEM type) and my pads w/VGX. I also put in KYB Gas a Just shocks in back, but I don't think they are related to this:

I went on my first drive after replacing rotors & pads to seat the pads to the rotors like the instructions said. The car was pulling VERY hard to the left. I did my 10 firm stops from 25mph. During the braking the car would pull right. But once I started going again, the car would pull to the left VERY hard once again.

The only way to "correct" it, was to hit the pedal and let off real quick. That would straighten it up during driving, but after the next stop, It was pulling left again.

Shortly after the sequence of stops, I was burning brakes. Smoke coming from the wheel well.

So, do you guys think my calipers are not functioning correctly? That is the best I could come up with. I thought I would ask the experts before I go back out in the cold and spend more time and money.

All help appreciated,

Tx

 

Sounds like the left caliper is sticking. When you hammer the brakes, the left brake isn't working as good as the right--you then pull right. When you release the brake the left one sticks--making you pull left. Poping the pedal makes it release. Could also be a collapsing brake line(hose)--if the are original, replace them both. The bad news is that you may have glazed the rotor and/or brake pad on the left.

 

Brake lines are probably original, but I don't know for sure.

What is the more likely cause of my problems? Also, if it helps, I left the job undone overnight, and in the morning the left caliper had come unsecured, and was hanging by the hose.

If it is the line only good; but, what if it is just that the caliper is sticking? Is there anyway to fix that w/o buying new?

Also, how bad of new is it that the pad or rotor may be ¿glazed?
Wold this just require machining(turning)? Or would the parts be wasted?

The car was driven only about a mile, and it was stopping very quickly. That info prolly has no relevence, but Just In Case.

Tx again

 

replace your hoses and try to bleed all the old fluid out of the system. and rebuild the sliders also. if that doesn't help buy a new set of calipers.

 

Thanks for the help.

Could you help me out with what the sliders are? Or maybe another term for them. I can rebuild them with Chilton's help. I just need to know what part of the brake system they are in.

Also, is there anything better than oem/dealership brake hoses that would be WORTH putting on a daily driver LG4?

 

they are the bolts that mount the caliper to the knuckle. if they rust up the calipers won't slide on the guides. they slide to compensate for brake pad wear.

 

I have 2 calipers with 60,000 miles on them.
I only pulled them to do 1LE brakes. they work fine...

 

Standard calipers (the big siingle piston iron ones) are dirt cheap. Replace these and the hoses and your problem will be gone.

Buy Larry's...he needs the $$$$...

Ed

 

New hoses have been installed. Test drive still pending. Thought I'd make a post before driving it again.

the hose on the sticking side had cuts in it, so hopefully that was the problem. Also, there wasn't much fluid in the caliper- most likely bled the brakes incorrectly the first time-(had no vinyl tubing)

I think I will try it out, and see if it pulls to the left rea;lly hard still. If so, I guess I will be contacting larry for his.

Are those the ones you had 60k on? there are just the single piston ones right?

Do you guys think my hoses, and lack of fluid in caliper could have been causing the above problems??


Tx

 

Could be any of the above. Get a good bleed. I let the dealer bleed mine while I got the car aligned...much better than I did.

Good luck and keep up posted!

Ed

 

I have 2 single piston calipers, 60,000 miles on them.

however doesn't sound like your bleeding it right. you shouldn't need vinyl. just get someone to pump them for you.. and bleed it manually.

 

believe it or not I have found that gravity bleeding works best even better than my mighty vac power bleeder

 

So how long does it ususally take for good old gravity to do the trick? How long at each wheel?

I take it you just open the valve and wait for clear fluid to come out?

Ed

 

I use manual bleeding techquics. you can gravity bleed, but I have someone pump and hold the pedal down. repeat until your satisfied the air is out and the fluid is clear.

I even use this old fashion on ABS cars... as long as there is no air in the ABS MODULE.

 

Well, my fluid was nowhere near clear. It is now. I used vinyl tubing to connect to the bleeder valve thing, and pumped the brakes until the air was gone. The car doesn't pull left anymore. It pulls right, but it did that before I did the brakes.

So.. sorry Larry, doesn't look like I will need those calipers yet.

Thanks for the help everyone.