negative camber ??
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Negative Chamber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the center of the car than the bottom of the wheel. Factory settings had several degrees of negative chamber already. Road racers most of the time will move the top of the strut as far in as it will go and go race. If you're talking about going the other way, positive chamber has an adverse effect on handling as it makes the car not want to drive straight. Not only does negative chamber help to corner, but it also creates a steering torque which makes the car go straight.
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Car: 82 camaro SC
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Just specify the specs you want to the alignment tech and they can do it. The max I can usually get is around -.75 camber. FYI, stock specs have positive camber.
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Im having ROH Snypers (17x9) and Kumho Ecsta Supra 712's in 275/40/17 installed on all 4 corners.
the car definatly has either 0 camber or positive camber with the tires and rims that are on it (15x7 and 235/60/15)
the car definatly has either 0 camber or positive camber with the tires and rims that are on it (15x7 and 235/60/15)
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Originally posted by 82camaro
Just specify the specs you want to the alignment tech and they can do it. The max I can usually get is around -.75 camber. FYI, stock specs have positive camber.
Just specify the specs you want to the alignment tech and they can do it. The max I can usually get is around -.75 camber. FYI, stock specs have positive camber.
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#9
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Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
right now I have about -1.5 camber...although thats also caused by the fact that I have a 3" drop. I really hope I have some free cash soon so I can pick up the GC units. I wanna probably make it around -3 or so
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Car: 1999 Pontiac T/A Firehawk
Engine: ***'s Engine
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by ATOMonkey
Negative Chamber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the center of the car than the bottom of the wheel. Factory settings had several degrees of negative chamber already.
Negative Chamber is when the top of the wheel is closer to the center of the car than the bottom of the wheel. Factory settings had several degrees of negative chamber already.
Edit:
(whoops, never mind, I goofed, I forgot which direction was negative for caster--factory specs are positive camber, positive caster, and positive toe)
Anyhow, stock specs are 1*+/- 0.5* positive camber, 3* +/- 0.5* positive caster, and .15" +/- 0.05" positive toe (the FAQ says degrees but toe isn't measured in degrees the last time I checked).
More than 1* negative camber is excessive on a street driven car and IMO will cause excess tire wear. A good setting is probably about half a degree of negative camber, unless you drive agressively, then you could go for a full one degree.
Keep in mind the factory rubber bushings in the strut mount deflect quite a bit as they age. In fact, my car had a problem with wearing the outside edges of the tires with the factory specs and worn stut mounts. This is because on a hard turn, the worn mount will allow the outisde tire to "roll over" a little.
Last edited by 99Hawk120; 01-29-2003 at 10:19 AM.
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