Do slotted and or cross drilled rotors better than stock?
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 6
From: Illinois
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Do slotted and or cross drilled rotors better than stock?
The stock brakes are kind of weak and I was wondering if cross drilled and or slotted rotors provide additional stopping power over stock? Any one have some like from Dura Stop or GM Performance parts? Or would I be better off saving my money for a front disk kit from Bear or SSBC.
strictly looks for what your concerned with.
you want more power, make sure the brakes are in good working shape and change your fluid. while your at it add some lines from earl's stainless brakes. $98 through summit.
if you still want more power and can justify the larger setups then go for it.
i like my gm rotors....however, they didn't do much for me other than looks. never track tested those either though.
you want more power, make sure the brakes are in good working shape and change your fluid. while your at it add some lines from earl's stainless brakes. $98 through summit.
if you still want more power and can justify the larger setups then go for it.

i like my gm rotors....however, they didn't do much for me other than looks. never track tested those either though.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,158
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From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
You don't really need slotted AND drilled unless your planning on road racing (or an application that requires very hard constant braking). Slotted rotors alone are ok and cool sufficiently. I wouldn't recommend drilled though, They tend to crack.
only ones known to crack are those that are made cheaply....i have yet to see a street car crack a good set of rotors that was used properly.
if you abuse your brakes anything will break eventually.
here is an old picture of the fronts....they don't coat them so they tend to get surface rust easy. these are gm performance parts/ac delco.
if you abuse your brakes anything will break eventually.

here is an old picture of the fronts....they don't coat them so they tend to get surface rust easy. these are gm performance parts/ac delco.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 0
From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
only ones known to crack are those that are made cheaply....i have yet to see a street car crack a good set of rotors that was used properly.
if you abuse your brakes anything will break eventually.
if you abuse your brakes anything will break eventually.
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it can happen, they are more prone than a solid rotor for obvious reasons.........although it happens rarely.
it's one of those instances where someone is out in 30 degree weather and heats them up to hot and then they cool to quick and they pop.
or racing applications where they just don't cool and they pop.
if they were that bad they wouldn't be out there......but who knows things happen.
all i know is i like mine and i made sure to get my baer setup with them......
it's one of those instances where someone is out in 30 degree weather and heats them up to hot and then they cool to quick and they pop.
or racing applications where they just don't cool and they pop.
if they were that bad they wouldn't be out there......but who knows things happen.
all i know is i like mine and i made sure to get my baer setup with them......
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,158
Likes: 0
From: Greenville S.C.
Car: 87 Grand National
Engine: 3.8 SFI Turbo
Transmission: BRF 200R4
I'm not saying they all do. I would just think about the application they are put into. There is ussually less mass in those type rotors. This can lead to warping, excessive wear, and chattering/vibrating. This of course only happens if A) they aren't setup properly, or B) go through too many rapid heat/cool cycles. I have seen drilled/slotted brakes go forever....then again theres always a negation to the same statement.
Get the Earls S/S lines and do a power flush with a Phoenix V12 power bleeder and some good fluid like Valvoline Synthetic. A power bleeder will get out all of the air in the system and greatly improve stopping power.
i have to agree with both statements.....
those earl lines and some nice new synthetic fluid with a properly working system is a very nice imporovement.
i wouldn't go with the rotors unless you want looks......
those earl lines and some nice new synthetic fluid with a properly working system is a very nice imporovement.
i wouldn't go with the rotors unless you want looks......
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,029
Likes: 6
From: Illinois
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
I already have SS brake lines. I am only concerned with increasing, well I should say decreasing my stopping distance. I don't care how they look. I could justify buying a big brake kit if I had a V8, but it seems a bit expensive for my V6.
I also wanted a big brake kit because I don't like the one piston cast iron calipers. If I could manage to get one of those brake kits for around $700, I would definately get them.
Although the big brake kit might be a little unnecesary, It would be nice to be able to decrease the stopping distance because you never know. . . . .
I also wanted a big brake kit because I don't like the one piston cast iron calipers. If I could manage to get one of those brake kits for around $700, I would definately get them.
Although the big brake kit might be a little unnecesary, It would be nice to be able to decrease the stopping distance because you never know. . . . .
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 483
Likes: 16
From: Merryland
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LC9
Transmission: AR5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
All I ever wanted to know about the "benefits" of cross-drilled rotors I learned here:
http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthr...7&pagenumber=1
http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthr...7&pagenumber=1
Could just be the brake pads. New lines, new fluid, and better pads would probably save the day (and not cost a fortune).
As far as upgrading stuff for better street use, I think the most cost effective upgrades are a pieced together 1LE front setup, and used LS1 disc brakes on the rear (assuming you have a 10 bolt rear). You could do the whole thing for under $1000. Thats the route I'm going on my 91z (street car). Total will be $800. But if you're gonna be doing roadracing or something, then you might want to spend a little more for the Baer or SSBC kits. This is the route I'm going with the 90 rs (track car).
If you want stuff new you can do the 1LE fronts for around $850 and new LS1 disc rear setup for around $550. The Baer front dual piston kit (16" wheel safe) is right under $1k new, with the 13" rotor kit about $10 more.
As far as upgrading stuff for better street use, I think the most cost effective upgrades are a pieced together 1LE front setup, and used LS1 disc brakes on the rear (assuming you have a 10 bolt rear). You could do the whole thing for under $1000. Thats the route I'm going on my 91z (street car). Total will be $800. But if you're gonna be doing roadracing or something, then you might want to spend a little more for the Baer or SSBC kits. This is the route I'm going with the 90 rs (track car).
If you want stuff new you can do the 1LE fronts for around $850 and new LS1 disc rear setup for around $550. The Baer front dual piston kit (16" wheel safe) is right under $1k new, with the 13" rotor kit about $10 more.
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