Anyone know what the front axle nut torque spec is? I assume it's torqued, then backed off 1/8 turn or something? I am want to work on it some, but don't have a manual yet! TIA!



This for my 1986 z28

 

there is no front axle. you mean the spindle nut? do a search and you ought to find the correct way to do it. i tighten it with channel locks till it feels "pretty tight" and the rotor spins freely still and then line up the holes for the conter key . i know my method isn't very professional but it's worked for me for a lot of years on a lot of cars and trucks.

 

Yea, the thingy the front wheel spins on. Thanks. Been a while since I had a car, been driving 4x4's too long. My memory is coming back now!

 

Tighten the nut until you feel some resistance in the rotor spin and back off 1/4 turn and install cotter key. It needs to spin very freely once the everything is together. If not the wheel bearings will be toast in no time. Ede's way would also work just as long as the rotor is spinning freely enough.

 

1/4 back from tight seems a little loose. New bearings need just a small amount of preload, used bearing need no preload and no slack.

 

Well I've been doing suspension work professionally for a while now and this is how I've always done it. I feel for resistance back it off a little (usually about 1/4 turn) and then install key. The nut does NOT need to be tight at all. The rotor isn't going anywhere as long as the cotter key is in.

 

Yea, that sounds right. I don't wanna burn out the bearings. I'm about to pull the wheels now to check them and repack.

 

I agree, as long as it isn't too tight or too loose, it really doesn't matter what method you use.

 

Don't forget to check the bearings after a week or so, when all the extra grease smushes out, you might wind up with increased endplay, which can affect the way the car takes turns.

I put the tire back on, and spin it forward as I torque the nut to 15 ft/lbs. Then I back it off a bit, hand-tighten it, and install the spindle nut when the cotter pin lines up.

 

this is true. after 2 weeks i noticed something felt loose in the front end. i re-checked my bearings and they had become slightly "loose".

 

My method is to tighten the nut until snug while turning the rotor (drum). I then back off the nut to the next full slot. Cotter and snap on the dust cap.

I feel that with tapered bearings, loose is better than tight.

 

The bearings looks good and no play. I found the little click noise to be the top of the struts. Seems to be just a very tiny bit of play on both sides. I guess that's normal for that kinda setup. Hopefully it should pass inspection. I almost got it ready for the road. Just got my title today. The wife :hail: been cleaning all the crap out , this car was so dusty and dirty inside. Using brakes cleaner to get the spilled oil up and degreaser and upolstry cleaner. Need new rubbers and windshield now! Yehaaawwwww