I saw a mechanic using one of these once, basically just a master cylinder cover with a air hose fitting on it, I realize it's probably not a good idea to put 150psi in the resovoir, but could I make one with a spare resovoir cover and a air line fitting, then limit my line pressure for quiker bleeding of my brakes, or were these only meant for metal resovoirs

 

don't see why not, use regualtor and very low psi settings. i have a phenoix injector bleeder system and there isn't anything better or faster that i know of.

 

I have the phoenix injector too (V12 model, from http://www.brakebleeder.com ). I tried making my own just like you said, JProz.

I devised a simple one at first; with a big liter of brake fluid. I drilled two holes in the cap. One hole took a standard air fitting; I wrapped the threads with teflon tape. Other hole was sized to fit one of those "bag of 30 for $2.00" Radio Shack grommets, and I slid vinyl tubing thru the hole so it touched the bottom of the brake fluid bottle.

Then I had a "one man brake bleeder kit" with little adapters... one side fit the tubing I had. The other side came to a point. You can somewhat see a picture of them here, to the left of the short pieces of tubing. I forget who made the little one-man bleeder kit; it was $10 or so. http://www.mityvac.com/images/06000.jpg

I used this homemade bleeder on the brake tubes right at the master cylinder. (I had the master cylinder off the car). By doing this, I was able to ensure that NO air was in the whole brake system "after" the master cylinder.

I put the m/c on and still had no pedal. So I tried what you want to do. I bought a spare m/c cap and gasket, drilled a hole thru both (well, used a hammer and punch to make a hole in the gasket), and stuck a grommet with vinyl tubing thru the hole. Pressurized the bottle, watched for a few seconds, then ran to the back of the car and opened a bleeder screw... nothing, nothing... went to the front, dammit! Brake fluid all over the place. The stock cap couldn't hold the pressure in. It bulged out along the sides. If only we had screw-on master cylinder caps, it would've worked perfectly... (sigh)

Back to the drawing board! I made an adapter plate. I cut a piece of thin plexiglass to go over the top. I bought a new master cylinder cap gasket, and cut out the center, leaving the edge. This created my air-tight seal. I drilled a hole into the plexiglass plate, put a grommet in, and fit the tubing thru (without the little adapter). I used two 5 inch lengths of angle iron (Home Depot), 1/8 inch, to go across the front reservoir and rear reservoir, "left-to-right". Then I drilled holes in each end of the angle iron pieces (4 holes total, 2 on each piece). Long bolts went to these holes. Chain (home depot again) looped under the m/c BODY (not reservoir) and connected to these long bolts to keep the plate smashed against the reservoir's top.

Then I pressurized the bottle to 15 psi, ran to the back, and cracked a bleeder screw open. Waiting, waiting, still no fluid. Finally I hear a ticking noise over my radio. Went to the front- the friggin' plexiglass cracked. Just about the whole bottle of brake fluid had dumped on the ground and I didn't realize it.

Shortly after, I found out about the Phoenix Injector. You can find it for cheaper then that website above, usually from big tool catalogs.

Now what you could ALSO do is buy just the m/c cap adapter! Yes they do sell them... as accessories to the high-dollar pressure bleeders. They're not that expensive considering time/trouble wasted with brakes... I've seen 'em for $40-$50. Let me do an internet search for ya...

http://www.toolparadise.com , in the top right box, type in the following part number: 3297 (KD Tools adapter for round cap'd reservoirs), $22. Won't help for us, though, just giving an idea.

Oh hell. The same website has the V12 w/smart pack and case, the same thing I paid $150 for two years ago, for $86. Type in part number V12-205 at http://www.toolparadise.com .

Here's the basic concept: http://www.vq-speedi.com/referenceInfo9.html
This C200 mimics the one that GM shows in their GM Service Manual; tubes going right to the valves in the master cylinder (removes physical pressure from the reservoir body) http://www.vq-speedi.com/adapters.html

#1105 might work... http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm

Another funky one, still not what I'm looking for... http://www.costplustools.com/store/s...duct_id=365394

Well I'll be damned; Car Craft printed something useful?? http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/85658/ Don't know if I'd recommend a c-clamp on our plastic/aluminum m/c's though...

Okay you get the idea; hopefully it helps. Looking back I wonder how it would've worked if I used the master cylinder cap WITH my chain/steel attaching method. Hm.

Also I'd recommend using a filter on your air hose. You don't want to put a ton of moisture into the new brake fluid. On my setup, I have a mini-regulator with gauge that has fittings on both ends. I attach it to the end of my air hose. Then I attach a filter and yellow coil hose to the regulator. I leave the regulator on the compressor at 50 psi, and control the pressure on the second regulator (to the bleeder) right at the front of the car. Allows me to turn on/shut off the bleeder right away. Makes for fast tool changes (going from 90 psi impact wrench to 50 psi for grease gun, etc) too!

But I agree, the Phoenix Injector is freakin' awesome. Just used it recently; my dad blew out a brake hose. I had that side bled in under a minute. Took me 5 minutes to set up the V12, but it was amazing. I reverse-injected the fluid thru the bleeder screw and up into the m/c reservoir. No pedal pumping or any of that crap.