SUSPENSION REBUILD IS DONE!!! THANKS GUYS!! Details within!!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
SUSPENSION REBUILD IS DONE!!! THANKS GUYS!! Details within!!
Just wanted to yell "Thanks!!" to thirdgen.org and everyone that helped me out! A special thanks to:
ebmiller88 - <a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/taramiller72" target="newwin">every detail possible about a front end rebuild</a>
Ukraine Train - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&postid=1347478" target="newwin">using balljoint press to install bushings</a>
ChevyMad - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=175370" target="newwin">using a drill to help remove bushings</a>
JamesC - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=183622" target="newwin">heads up regarding 82-86 upper strut mount problem</a>
And also thanking RB83L69, spartyon, Justins86bird, Rbob, ede, and everyone else that I'm forgetting at the moment! Thirdgen.org rocks!!
The car rides like a dream right now. It's not even a harsh ride! Yeah it's stiff but not as bad as that 250,000 mile suspension was... I barely notice the bumps. Turns are SO much more fun; hell, going STRAIGHT is even more fun!
Biggest trouble- having the lower control arm's rear leg's bushing sleeve rust to the bolt. Took a ton of grinding (more like polishing) with an air die grinder. NONE of my high powered tools would fit in there!
I'm glad I bought new bolts and nuts- and YES, these bolts had special shoulders on them. You won't find them in parts stores.
Here's the before/after pictures! If you want details let me know!!! Thanks again everyone!!
ebmiller88 - <a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/taramiller72" target="newwin">every detail possible about a front end rebuild</a>
Ukraine Train - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&postid=1347478" target="newwin">using balljoint press to install bushings</a>
ChevyMad - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=175370" target="newwin">using a drill to help remove bushings</a>
JamesC - <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=183622" target="newwin">heads up regarding 82-86 upper strut mount problem</a>
And also thanking RB83L69, spartyon, Justins86bird, Rbob, ede, and everyone else that I'm forgetting at the moment! Thirdgen.org rocks!!

The car rides like a dream right now. It's not even a harsh ride! Yeah it's stiff but not as bad as that 250,000 mile suspension was... I barely notice the bumps. Turns are SO much more fun; hell, going STRAIGHT is even more fun!
Biggest trouble- having the lower control arm's rear leg's bushing sleeve rust to the bolt. Took a ton of grinding (more like polishing) with an air die grinder. NONE of my high powered tools would fit in there!
I'm glad I bought new bolts and nuts- and YES, these bolts had special shoulders on them. You won't find them in parts stores.Here's the before/after pictures! If you want details let me know!!! Thanks again everyone!!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks! The springs are Suspension Techniques (made by http://www.belltech.com ), bought them from http://www.shox.com . The car's a 1986 Firebird, with a 2.8 v6 in it.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I've got tons of pictures, but they're not online yet... when they are, I'll let everyone know!
Find ALL of the details in this message: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=187293
Find ALL of the details in this message: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=187293
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Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Hey, TomP,
I noticed (on the link you provide) that the end link holes in your a-arms had elongated. I found the same to be true on mine when I did the 1LE brake conversion. I suspect that that's another of those problems common to our cars. After repair (weld and grind), a possible fix is to use GM 1LE poly end links. The bushings are rounded and seem to seat into the hole better. Also, after putting a few miles on the car, checking the torque value again seems sensible.
By the way, your car seems to be coming together very nicely.
JamesC
I noticed (on the link you provide) that the end link holes in your a-arms had elongated. I found the same to be true on mine when I did the 1LE brake conversion. I suspect that that's another of those problems common to our cars. After repair (weld and grind), a possible fix is to use GM 1LE poly end links. The bushings are rounded and seem to seat into the hole better. Also, after putting a few miles on the car, checking the torque value again seems sensible.
By the way, your car seems to be coming together very nicely.
JamesC
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 482
Likes: 2
From: Midvale, UT
Car: 1991 RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 4.11
big grats, and thanks also on all the information. I will be doing a full front suspension re-do in my winter rebuild this year. As well as rear susp/ brakes. I am going a bit of a different route with C5 front brakes, and LS-1 rear end. (with an LS-1 and 6 speed thrown in there somewhere
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