alignment won't stay aligned
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 143
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From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
alignment won't stay aligned
What parts must be in good condition in order for an alignment to hold up?
I have new lower ball joints on both sides, new tires, brake pads, lines, and rotors, wheel bearings.
Could my struts be the problem?
I guess my real question is what else should I change when I do struts, so my car will stay aligned, and not need more parts and another alignment. $70 bucks an alignment sucks!
Thanks guys
I have new lower ball joints on both sides, new tires, brake pads, lines, and rotors, wheel bearings.
Could my struts be the problem?
I guess my real question is what else should I change when I do struts, so my car will stay aligned, and not need more parts and another alignment. $70 bucks an alignment sucks!
Thanks guys
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 367
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From: TX
Car: 97 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Worn tie rods won't hold a toe adjustment. Other than that I'm not sure, maybe the upper strut mount but don't think the actual strut could cause you to lose your alignment.
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 6
From: Vancouver, WA
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Since you have already done ball joints, look at tie rods, idler arm, center link, the bearings in the top of the strut mounts, and look for frame damage/cracking around the steering box. Also check the a-arm bushings to see what condition they are in.
I've never heard of a strut causing an alignment to not hold, but I guess if the strut is totally worn out and the rod in it is loose, it may move around and cause problems. But I'd check everything else out first.
I've never heard of a strut causing an alignment to not hold, but I guess if the strut is totally worn out and the rod in it is loose, it may move around and cause problems. But I'd check everything else out first.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,537
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From: Naperville, IL
Car: 89 Iroc Hardtop
Engine: LB9 w/G92 Pkg
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt, 3.45
Assuming ALL equipment is in good working order and the frame isn't bent... the problem might be your alignment SHOP.
My parents had an Oldsmobile that wore front tires out every few months. They'd buy new front tires, go back to the same place and get the alignment checked/set, and a few months later the sides were worn out again.
My best friend worked at another repair shop that did alignments, and I talked my Dad into going there. The car never wore the tires out again.
My parents had an Oldsmobile that wore front tires out every few months. They'd buy new front tires, go back to the same place and get the alignment checked/set, and a few months later the sides were worn out again.
My best friend worked at another repair shop that did alignments, and I talked my Dad into going there. The car never wore the tires out again.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Grain Valley, MO
Car: 86 SC
Engine: 5.0 305 LG4
Transmission: M5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I think you guys are probably right when you say tie rods, center link, idler arm, because the metal pieces are coated in a nice rust finish! Looks like they could probably break any day now. I am thinking the struts are bad too though. Just because bumps in the road give my car hell.
Do you think these could cause severe shaking at high speeds (65-70mph), or is this probably a driveshaft balance?
both?
thanks for the replies though
Do you think these could cause severe shaking at high speeds (65-70mph), or is this probably a driveshaft balance?
both?
thanks for the replies though
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