im converting my 87 ta to 1 le and would like to talk to someone who's done it ? have some concerns on prop valve, thread sizes
ect. can any one help out? plz e-mail me or pm me id like to call ya on the phone thx

:lala:

 

why bother?

 

why bother with 1le conversion or why bother trying to figure this out before i bolt on the parts and find out that lines dont fit,brakes dont work like theyre supposed to?
have you done this before? if not why did you respond?

 

Do a search. This subject has been covered extensively in numerous posts. The info about the m/c and prop valve is especially important. I learned that the hard way after doing my 1LE conversion.

Check for posts by ebmiller. If memory serves, he's the guy that posted all the info about the m/c and prop valve. BTW, ebmiller (Ed) did a post not too long ago about converting to Corvette calipers. He did the 1LE upgrade and then went a bit further.

Steve Spohn might also have some helpful info. Good luck.

 

My mistake, I was late for a class when I typed that, I didn't realize that you were talking about just 1LE brakes. I thought you were talking about converting your car to a 1LE clone with all the suspension components and such, and my reasoning when I said "why bother" was that 1LE is great if your car came with that option, if not, your money is better spent on better performing aftermarket suspension parts. I'm sorry I misinterpreted your post, 1LE brakes a great. Good luck with the conversion.

 

The answers you are looking for are as follows:

Since your car is an '87 you will need the #14089496 prop. valve. This is the 1st design version and uses M1.0 pitch threads. For the m/c, just make sure you have the J50 disc/drum version. You may already have this one on your car.

Starting in 1990, GM dropped the J65 disc/disc m/c and used the J50 on all the f-bodies thru 92. This is also the only replacement m/c available for our cars.

 

Yup, what Bret said.

Good luck!

Ed, the "1LE/C4 guy"

 

Like the guys said. For a little more assistance, you might pick up AndyZ28's CD, which has many photos (the CD can be purchased from Spohn). Also, check the photos in Ed's sig as well as the following link:

http://www.ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html

I'm quite happy with the 1LE upgrade. Anyone know of a rear kit similiar to the one Andy used to offer?

JamesC

 

That's Daniel Burke's page...LOTS of good info there. His parts list is almost exactly the same as the brake kit as Andy will offer, only exception is the 9/10 bolt backing plate issue. All PBR setups from '89-97 will work the same, and use 99% of the same parts.

Ed

 

yes yes yes i have andy's cd, ive been to dan burks website i have the ist design prop valve ! i just wanted to talk to someone thats done the swap. i called earls tech line and he answered most of my questions about thread size. i bought spohns brackets and caliper cradles and bolts but suprise ! his bolts and brackets are 7/16" coarse threds not 12x1.75 like dans link says to drill and tap (allready done) so now he wants me to go to have them drilled out to 1/2" to fit the met bolts. it'd been nice had they made that clearer before i hunted the large met tap and tapped the extra spindles ,heck i allready had the 7/16" tap!!
he dosent seem to willing to take them back either maybe steve will read this and handle his customers better


i guess i was really worried the earls lines and 1le caliper threads would really screw me up but theyre ok 85 and up

 

I encountered the same problem--that is, I followed instructions in Andy's CD, only to find that Spohn's bolts were standard. When I wrote him about the problem, he sent me the metrics, no questions asked. If, for some reason Spohn won't provide the metrics, I'd look around for them. I can't believe they'd be that difficult to source. Hit the hardware stores.

JamesC

 

Oh ****...now I get it. I don't understand the difference in the threads. I know that I did mine Metric so it wouldn't be a problem. You can do them either way but metric seems to be the standard now. I stuck with the 12mmx1.75.

SO...back to your question.

As you know, Dan's page uses factory GM parts and Spohn uses his own. I guess Steve had his made with standard threads. Seems to me you could just drill out and retap the spindle...it also seems like your only choice unless you can swap the brackets out. However, if the only difference is the thread size of the bolts for the spindle, just go ahead use metric bolts there and the standard bolts in the bracket. It'll work the same.

HTH...

Ed

PS: If you want to call, 803.396-5693

 

I'm using the Spohn parts and I waited till I had them in hand before having my spindles modified. I read Steve's instructions and had my extra spindles modified to his specs. The advantage to using the standard bolts is that they are easy to replace if need be. My local OSH Hardware carries a pretty good selection of grade 8 bolts.

BUT.... back to zman1969's concerns. Probably the easiest thing to do is stick with the metric bolts in the spindles and just re-drill the brackets if need be. If you have the proper tools it should be fairly easy. A machine shop would also probably do it pretty cheap.

Good luck.

 

ebmiller 88 thanks! the link to your pics helped every one says you are DA MAN when it comes to this stuff i went to a machinist buddies tonight now they have 1/2" holes and should fit ok now.
had i known this earlier (spohn could of e-mailed or sent instructions with his parts) id of been there by now. all i really need is the disc/drum master cyl. are the remans at autozone or anywhere aluminum like oe or are they ugly cast?

 

Instructions are included with the kit.

You make it sound like we don't tell you what you're getting?

You ordered them from this link:

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1368

Which says this....

This package includes:

Left and right side caliper carriers
Two adapter brackets
Four grade 10.8 14mm carrier mounting bolts
Four 14mm flat machine washers
Four grade 8 7/16-14 spindle mounting bolts


You emailed me and said you had your spindle tapped to 12mm already. I said all you have to do is drill out the 7/16" holes in the adapter brackets to 1/2".

I don't see how any of that is bad customer service? It was clearly stated what parts were supplied in the package. I answered your email questions immediately with what I would consider a very easy solution. Other then flying out there and doing the work for you, I don't know what else I could have done

Final note, we use 7/16" GRADE 8 bolts because they are MUCH stronger then the 12mm metrics. That's the # 1 reason. #2 is because it's much easier and cheaper to get SAE bits and taps, but that's just a side bonus, strength is the main concern.

Steve

 

yes i read your e- mails i didnt by reading know this was a "custom" ie not stock setup. yes yoe replied immediatly but it was a brush off no offer to take them back,i had to ask several tomes if you would. i had to go to a mackine shop because i can drill 1/2" steel with any of my equipment 20$ later i guess im back in buisness. ant there were no instructions with your parts
or advisory that you use non stock parts. like i said had i known
upfront id been done with this by now .not having to screw around with nonstock parts
thanks

 

I noticed the bolt size difference on Steve's site "after" I had used Andy's CD, meaning I'd already drilled/tapped for the metric sizes. Before I ordered the kit, I e-mailed Steve with my problem. He simply replaced the SAE's with metrics when he shipped out. On another occasion, Steve shipped me some syn grease, which was squashed by UPS. Rather than make me mess with any kind of reimbusement procedure, he shipped me another without charge. Pretty darned good customer service in my opionion, so much so that I've purchased quite a few items from his catalogue (note my sig). That said, can any manufacturer satisfy every customer on every occasion? Doubtful.

JamesC

 

Another thing you say here is incorrect. I told you if you're not happy, send it all back for a refund....but it would sure be cheaper to just get someone to run a bit through 4 holes. Sounds like you took my advice.

Bottom line, you made a mountain out of a mole hill.

Yes James, some people aren't happy no matter what you do.

Steve

 

QOUTE FROM STEVE SPOHNS REPLY ABOUT CUSTOM PARTS SUPPLIED:"Yeah, if you want. My point is, it'll cost you more to ship them back
then it will to stop in at your local garage and say hey, "can you run a
1/2" drill through these 4 holes for me quick?" and give the guy a
couple bucks and you're good to go. It's your call, just trying to help
out. No sense making a mountain out of a mole hill!

Steve"

" yeah if you want" was your offer to return them for a refund?
there was no offer to supply the correct size bolts as stock.
no offer to cover extra cost of fixing the brackets RIGHT.
the reason i bought the package I figured to get as much of the parts required easier from one source.in my opinion your service
comittment to your customers is sub par! i could bought from gm as i did for the metric bolts and banjo bolts . too bad i cant leave you negative feedback for a bad buying experience of over 400 dollars,instead you try to help me you want to argue on this board! fix the problem steve !

 

WHAT IS THE PROBLEM???

You ordered a package that CLEARLY stated every single part that was included in the kit. Then you get the kit and want to complain that 4 bolts are not what you needed for the holes you already tapped?

Now, if I had a site that just said "1LE Parts Kit", I could see your point 100%. But the fact is that every single part down to the last washer is listed in full detail.

You don't have to leave me bad feedback, I have 1000's of customers who know we provide excellent products and customer service. That's why I posted here, so people with rational thinking can hear the other side of the story.

See, the point you're missing is that we don't sell a "stock GM" kit, we sell a "Spohn kit". We use the best, and strongest parts available. I don't want to sell a "stock" kit.

The brackets are made correctly for a "Spohn Kit", if you're using a set up that is not the same as our kit, why would I pay to have it modified to work on your car?

If you're this upset over something this trivial, I hate to see what you'll do when you run in to a real problem. Maybe modifiying cars isn't the right hobby for you?

What part of "yeah, if you want to return them go ahead" didn't you understand? Your invoice has a return policy clearly stated on it. Let me guess, you didn't get an invoice either

I don't get mad, just frustrated. I'm sure you still won't see the picture clearly, so this is my last post on this, I've said what needed to be said. Have fun with the brakes, they're awesome

Steve

 

again another fine customer satisfaction gesture on your part.
steve the right thing to do,when asked a direct question about a
return is NOT to shrug off the question with your idea to modify your premium design(guess the stock metric bolts are too inferior) parts but answer the question! it took asking you twice to get that "offer for return and credit" that you distinctly avoided.
again i dont see you aguing like this on a public board can be good for your buisness and the e-mail replys didnt satisfy my wanting to do this the RIGHT way . i deal on ebay a little bit and have an excellent feedback rating over 230 positives 1 negative
ive been in the automtive customer service buisness for over 20 years.and if some buys from me i make it right! i dont argue i handle it .by the way where are my instructions with these parts?
and i dont appreciate your feelings if you think this is the right hobby for me . lets not get personal (back to your profesionalism)
i just expect the stuff to fit right the first time .and to quote you again:"What part of "yeah, if you want to return them go ahead" didn't you understand? your exact statement was"yeah if you want to" ther was no "return them go ahead" no"id be happy to exchange them" no "sure id like to make it right for you" have a nice day , im done