ok guys quick question

Im setting my car up for this contest that is held every year called the Ultimate Street car, the car needs to do many things including handling, braking, drag racing, roadcourse etc

I already picked out how I am setting up the suspension and the engine thus far, but I need to do something about brakes if there is anymore I can do

now as you all know from the factory I have the 1LE brakes

I am going to keep the stock 16X8 wheels on so keep this in mind

now here are some of the questions


what can I do to upgrade the fronts? will the C4 brake swap improve over my brakes or what?
should I just get stainless steel lines, brake pads and cross/drilled/slotted rotors?
What can I do about the rear brakes? should I just get brake pads with cross drilled and slotted rotors for the rear and who makes them?

Is it possible to fit a larger rotor or upgrade kit like baer, brembo or wilwood with the stock wheels?

Im looking to get the 60-0 braking down to the low 100 foot range or better if possible
and maybe the 80-0 in the low 200ft range or better

 

Yes it is possible to fit large brakes with your stock 16" IROC wheels. Here is a link to a kit I manufacture and supply to Spohn Performance.

I had a C4 setup on my car, and it wasn't enough for what I do with my car (auto-x, road courses) so I developed this system. It was amazing how much better than the C4 this setup is.

With the C4 brakes I didn't like the rock hard pedal feel, and higher pedal effort required to stop the car. The pedal effort with the 13" Wilwood's setup is minimal.

Dan


http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1453

 

hey thanks anyway man I did check that out but it wont fit since I have the TTA wheels

maybe I will just change the rotors, pads and lines out

Carl

 

If I'm not mistaken ... aren't the 1LEs BETTER than the C4 kit? I thought that the 1LEs have thicker rotors than the C4s while still using the same diameter?

Tim

 

well truthfully I didnt know which is why I was asking about it

 

Yep, there's a difference. The 1LEs, which will be more $$$ for you, use a 1" thick rotor. The C4 rotors are around .81-.83" in thickness. The calipers are virtually identical, only difference being the width of the rotor slot. They use the same brake pads too. The advantage of the C4 kit is not having to deal with bearings every time you have to swap rotors, they simply slide on and off the hubs. Both are 12" wide rotors but the 1LEs are thicker. Still, I am VERY satisfied with the performance of the C4s on my RS. Having both a C4 and 1LE equipped car, I can recommend both to you, but it all comes down to what you prefer and your budget. Had the C4s been in the works back when I did the 1LE swap, I would have done the C4 swap instead. I don't Auto-X or race or anything, so the C4s would have been plenty brake for less money. I don't need anything stronger than these....

HOWEVER, I am currently working on the LS1 upgrade, but these most certainly will require 17" wheels.


Let me know if you have any more questions.

Ed

 

hey thanks for the info, since I already have the 1LEs I think maybe I will just upgrade the pads, stainless steel lines and a slotted/ cross drilled rotor

do you know of anything i can do for the rear brakes besides a pad and rotor change? if not maybe I will just do that then

thanks

Carl

 

Oh hell I wasn't paying attention.

Since you're already hooked up with the 1LEs, pad and rotor upgrades are about it, but definitely get Earl's lines. Same goes for the rears.

Ed

 

hey I appreciate all the info that you have given me but I got one more question to bother you about

I will def go with the earl SS lines

you have any recommendations on pads or rotors?

I was at baer's site and they have something called eradispeed rotors or something, supposedly they are OEM replaceable and are a performance upgrade without needing to change anything else, would you recommend them or another brand? also I havent been to a place yet that sells upgraded rear rotors maybe you can recommend them as well

thanks

Carl

 

Both Eradispeed and Powerslot rotors are good, although I personally don't have either. I'm just going on what others on the boards have given opinions on . I'd so a search and see what turns up. Hawk pads and EBC are better, although I'd go with ceramic pads to keep the brake dust to a minimum unless you don't mind it.

Ed

 

Personally, I wouldn't run cross-drilled rotors. IMHO, I'd upgrade the pads and go with slotted rotors or a factory style rotor. These will withstand the heat of heavy braking better.

Here's alittle more info. from the Baer web site:

What are the benefits to Crossdrilling or Slotting my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “green pad fade” or “outgassing”. When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but simply little or no friction. Since this normally happens only at temperatures witnessed in racing, this can be very exciting!

However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern. When shopping for race pads, or even ultra-high performance road pads, look for the phrases, “dynamic surface treatment”, “race ready”, and/or, “pre-burnished”. When these or similar statements are made by the pad manufacturer, the pad in question will likely have little or no problem with ‘outgassing’. Ironically more pedestrian pads used on most streetcars will still exhibit ‘outgassing’, but only when used at temperatures normally only encountered on the racetrack.

Although crossdrilling and/or slotting will provide a welcome path to expend any gasses when and if they develop, it is primarily a visual enhancement behind today’s often wide-open wheel designs.

Crossdrilling offers the greatest gas relief pathway, but creates potential “stress risers” from which cracks can occur. Baer’s rotors are cast with crossdrilling in mind, from the material specified, to curved vanes, behind which the holes are placed to minimize potential crack migration. Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings.

 

hey man

its really funny how you metnioned that cause I actually read up on it and yet my stupid a** still typed cross drilled when I meant the slotted ones

I guess I was in too much of a rush or something

thanks for reminding me though

by the way know of anyone that makes just slotted rotors besides PowerSlot??

thanks guys

Carl

 

great info on this post guys, it awnsered a few questions I had. My car is a factory 1LE, but I have also added cross drilled rotors up front. I have been debating on adding stainless lines because I am still not impressed with its hard braking. It seems like the rubber lines swell, using up some of my braking. In addition, should I go to cross drilled in the rear? Most of the braking is done up front, so would I notice it out back?

 

agood2.8 actualy found really good braking, with standar rotors up fron, and drilled in the rear. i won't get into the standar/slotted/drilled debate as to which is better.

 

Here are some suggestions you may wanty to try cleaner13.

An adjustable proportioning valve may give you more rear brake than you have now currently. You will have to remove the insides from the stock proportioning valve to disable it or your adjustable valve will do nothing to help. This made a nice difference on my car (85 IROC w 4 wheel discs, notoriously weak rear brakes).

I run my car on road race tracks and use Hawk pads (blue 9012 compound). The Hawk blue pads are hard on rotors (ignore Hawks claims that they are easy on rotors) and will generate lots of dust (a lot of the dust is your rotors being ground away). But when you mash the brake pedal, the car will stop. For a given caliper/rotor combination I think big improvements can be had by experimenting with different pads. To shorten stopping distance, look for pads with the highest friction level you can get.

By the way, when you go to the road course make sure you don't run old brake fluid that's been in the car forever. A lot of raod racers change brake fluid every weekend so they always have fresh fluid with the highest boiling point possible for that fluid.

If it's allowed, lose your regular street tires and mount up a set of road racing tires. These will completely transform your car and perform far better than any normal street tire can. You may also want to look into the traction compounds you apply to the tires to soften the rubber. I have never tried them but they claim to make the tires so sticky you can drive up the side of a building.