ok. im tired of running in the 12's and trapping at these d*mn supra speeds. right now the car has alot of autocross suspension on... and i knwo thats my problem. i was wantign to know what suspension stuff do i need to get since i have crossed over to drag racing??
this is some of the things i have now that i think i can keepon the car for drag racing:

Adjustable Panhard Rod
Strut Tower Brace <~~ dont need.. but im not taking it off cuase i cant drive without this. to much like night and day w/o it.
Sub Frame Connectors
LCA relocation brackets
and all poly bushing/mounts

i am thinkign of soem of those QA1(HAL) 12 way adjustable shocks/struts... but what about springs? i have some ebach pro spring now.

 

the eibach drag springs should help with the 60 foot times, i have there rear ones in now, but i couldnt get the front one on yet, so i just have my other set i bought (pro kit from eibach also).

migh want to look at the lakewood drag struts and shocks, jegs sells them, i didnt want to go with adjustable shocks or struts so i went with the 50/50 rear shocks and 70/30 struts and took of my front sway bar.

those springs and shocks and struts should help weight transfer.

 

You may want to look into some Lakewood traction action LCA's and some ET Drags or at least ET streets for the rear. A random tech adj. torque arm would help too! Also, your rear springs may be to hard. Try some softer springs (like the stock ones) for the rear.

It would seem that traction is all that you are fighting right now to meet your goals.

 

I'll second the rear spring issue. I'm not a big autocross guy so I'm assuming your current rear springs lowered the car and probably have a stiffer rate for your previous road course. So nows where you have to choose sides for maximum cornering or maximum straight line. You'll want adjustable shocks out back or at least a 50/50 and a softer spring rate to let the weight be forced back, too stiff and you'll blaze the tires regardless of slicks-been there done that on this issue. Possibly look into Moroso trick springs, they will settle after installation to still give you the lower look you probably have, but be MUCH more effeicent for weight transfer. In the front, get rid of the sway bar-for you it might be a noticable difference, but with me I noticed no change in handling, drag struts 90/10 and again Moroso trick springs. These springs up front store energy and when the weight starts to transfer it'll literally throw the front end up, then the struts will hold it up so as not to unload the rear tires and lose traction. After you first install these trick springs,the car will appear higher than your used too, but give it a week or two, believe me it'll settle down to a stance your probably familair with.

 

Why dont you just put et streets on it?

 

i did.. i had the ETs on and i spun them all the way down the track (pretty cool to watch though)

 

You spun the ET Streets all the way down the track? Did you do a burnout to heat them up? What kind of air pressure were you running?

 

Now, seriously, you do have 126 mph, but spinning et streets all the way down the track? I know how sticky those are. Just let up a bit in first if they spin, and feather back into it. I have a feeling your posi is bad. What are you running? Is it heating them both in the box? I know my 118 mph (no n20 yet) car hurt my 9 inch posi after only 2k miles.

 

well.. i wouldnt say ALL the way down the track.. but it was thru 1st and 2nd, and soem of 3rd. as far as if the tires were heated.. im thinking no, cuase i did a nice burnout..well.. i tried.. but as far as smoke goes.. it didnt create any smoke.. and i was there a good 15 secs trying to get a huge smoke cloud going *just for ****s and giggles* but nothen. and the air pressure was around 15-16 psi. i think the problem with that slicks spinning was a combination of my posi being/going bad *cuase i think it may* the pressure beign to high, and the slicks not beign warm. i got my LCA relocation brackets today, so i shoudl have my shocks here tomorrow, and i still need to get new springs.

 

Dam, you need like 10-12 psi in there

 

just to let you know what the lakewood drag shocks(front 90/10, rear 50/50) will do to your car along with subframe connectors and lakewood traction action lift bars lca's. it droped my car a full 2seconds. but i am completely stock as far as motor and drivetrain.

 

yea, you need 10-12 psi like said above. ET streets workie somewhat for me but slicks would be better. I have the same Lakewood shocks/struts as listed above, rear has Moroso drag springs, but have no torque arm, no sway bar or control arms in the rear.. basically a custom rear suspension