Sorry, I had to brag and ask a few questions.

Bragging:
I just won off ebay a brand new Comp Eng Torque Arm and Pro-performance tublar LCA's!

Torque arm: $200 (sort of a deal, but worth it to me)
LCA's: $50 (new $80-$120)
So I am happy and really needed them for my set up.

Also I walked into the local junk yard today, found a freaking stock IROC alum drive shaft from a 86-88 (?year) sitting there! I freaked, they guy did not even know he had it. He wanted $75, I talked him down to $50, told him it is a weak drive shaft because it's alum... LOL GREAT DEAL

Now, QUESTIONS!

Anyone running a CE torque arm? comments?
How about big changes in stock lca's to solid lcas? (with out loweringkit)
Installing the CE Torque arm? comments?
How about the big changes in the steel to alum drive shaft? worth the $50 or not? why?

Sorry so many questions, just not to hip on suspension stuff, and need to be so my Monster can hook up this next summer and hit 10's at least...

THANKS

PS Drag racing, wroth it to get solid pan rod arms or not, are they just mostly for cornering?

 

nodody has used any of these parts?

bump!

 

well i havent used those brands but,

from stock lower control arms to more solid tubular ones are a very nice invest; i use spohn standard poly bushing ones. helps prevent wheel hop and keep away alot of unwanted flex.

any adjustable torque arm will be cool for drag racing because you can adjust pinion angle rather than just using a stock arm.

the changes in aluminum drivshaft verses steel is that you save some rotating weight and it keeps down on vibrations.

with you running 10s i dont know if i would run a stock aluminum driveshaft and feel safe at least without a drive shaft loop.

 

Yup looks like you have to go with the carbon fiber driveshaft... have fun buying it

 

Better be a light car to go 10s with that engine. Unless you have nitrous, I didnt see that listed. I would figure a 500 HP car would nuke that stock shaft in a hurry, if it hooks.

 

yepers, NOS all the way baby. I built the motor around using NOS, all forged, everything I could... I plan on at least a 150 shot and upwards of 200-250 after time tells what I can do on just 150.
I beleive that the alum drive shaft is stronger than the stock steel shaft, so I will have better luck with that then my stock POS.

Anyway, I am happy and will just see what she does next season, if I break something, lesson learned and try again.

 

I would DEFINATLEY recomend using a drive shaft loop. Last thing you want is to twist that driveshaft and have it come up through the floor or even worse.

 

yea man when those shafts go you car REALLY **** up your car, a drive shaft loop would definately be worth the investment, even if it doesn't break... you have it just in case... PUT ONE ON!

 

Not to mention most tracks aren't gonna let you play without at least a front one (loop).

 

Already on order, I have been racing for a little over 3 years IHRA and I know they are picky with that. AND I want one also, to save me in case...

"Fireturd350" what do you mean "a front one" are you saying a front of the shaft loop, or what? Not following???

 

I'm talking about a front driveshaft loop... if I remember right any car running in the 13's or faster or any car running slicks needs a front loop... A rear loop would be for extra caution, just incase under freak chance the rear ujoint would go the shaft wouldn't crunch exhaust or damage the floor board.

 

We broke our yoke on our dirt stock car and even the front loop ripped off tearing additional metal with it. Folded the shaft in half and tore the entire rearend out. We are thinking about a shaft tunnel. We run 900 dyno proven HP motors from SINN ENGINEERING. Cars hookup even better on tacky dirt.

 

if your gonna use a 250 shot i hope you gapped your rings right....your also gonna need a cage to go that fast

 

It will definately be worth all these precautions when your going 150 down the strip have fun man

 

All safty products have been ordered, or on my list of things to get. Lakewood saftey loop, CE 8 point roll cage all on my list of stuff to get.

Mmy motor is set up for running up to a 300 shot of NOS if I wanted to, however, looking over the projected Dyno numbers the TQ would go off the scale (over 1000 lbs) off the line at 2000 RPM's. So, I am thinking about maxing it about 150-200 in that range.

Thanks for the info guys, cannot wait for next season! DAM SNOW....


Anyone running CE's sub frame conectors (weld in style)? You like them? Hard to install?
Anyone running CE's TQ arm? Like it? degree set at (-2 or?)??


Thanks

 

holy EDITED !!!! over 1000 lbs!!!! my ***, doing like 90MPH and you hit that thing your tires will still spin!!!! christ almighty thats alot of TQ!

 

I realize that 1000 ft lbs of TQ seems high, however, Steve, I did plug the numbers in on the dyno and with my "only motor" TQ being 510 ft lbs, then it says with 200 shot it would go up to 967 ft lbs at 2000 rpm's, not sure if it is correct or not, but I am sure the TQ will be too much for my 3rd gen (with all the modifications) to handle, so I will start with 50 and work up to 150 and see what she does???

 

thats cool man, be careful tho

 

That's a butt load of tq... Don't you usually spray once you break 2k to 2.5k rpms anyways. I read a post awhile back where people were talking about intake puddling at lower rpms.

 

does it matter what gear you spray in? i dont have nos nor am i getting it, im just wondering...

 

I have run NOS before in a 3rd gen, and I found the best time to "shoot" the NOS is in the start of 2nd Gear if you run Auto. With manual it is different, and I would not be a good subject expert to ask that question.

I ran 150 with a stock 92 Z28 TPI and picked up mid 12's at high elevation, so you do the math. Good luck with your NOS endevors.

 

Depending on the weight of your car I seriously suggest not using the alum driveshaft.

I started off using a 3" alum shaft when I first put my car together last year and it worked fine untill I got my 60ft's into the 1.5's.At 3550lbs it went a 1.58,a 1.57,and then gave out(the tube itself twisted up and tore in two.I was in the mid 11's at the time.

I have scince switched to a 3" chrome moly shaft with spicer yokes and 1350 series joints and havent had a single problem with numerous 1.49 60fts.

Steve

 

The reason they don't want you to spray at such a low RPM is b/c of cylinder pressure, not so much as puddling fuel. N2o is constantly being 'sprayed' into the motor at all engine speeds. The pressures at 2000 RPM are a hell of a lot higher than the same shot at 5000RPM.

And the TQ #'s,
it takes a $hit load of tq to move a 3500+lbs car down 1,320ft in less than 11 sec.

 

He'll only need about 135mph. Depending on how he hooks.

 

150, 135, who cares, and you dont need 1000lbs of tq to get less than 11, that is alot of TQ, 1000lbs will get him well into the 9s wouldn't you say? mayb even 8s? im not sure, or nething im just geussing but no 10 second car has 1000 lbs of TQ unless it is a friggin 3/4 ton truck!

 

hey free bird, do you kno what gear your supposed to spray in, with a manual tranny to get the largest, safest benefit?