No MAJOR modifications (such as, back halfed or tubbed). I'm looking for bolt on's. No bigger than a 11.5" tire. Preferably a 10.5. Here's what's done already; LCA's and relocation brackets, moser 9", moroso front drag springs, and some poly bushings.

I'm looking into a tq arm, rear springs and possibly an air bag. My nitrous bottle is back there along w/ my battery. To make things even worse I plan on doing this in a manual. Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

slicks

 

Well I did say any and all help is appreciated, so thanks. But I figured that one.

 

hehe, had to state the obvious.


only things i can really think of other then the usual bolt ons would be drag shocks/struts to help throw some weight on the rear, and to run a airbag or some other form of preload on that one side to keep it from twisting as much...

 

I completely forgot about shocks and struts.
I guess those were the obvious things I forgot.

 

its impossilbe, might as well remove your engine and ship it to me. ill find something to do with it

lol

mind indulging us how the heck you got that much torque? that would rock.

 

I would do this if i has that much power.

front end:

90/10 drag struts
no sway bar
some sort of wonderbar, strut tower brace.

rear:

spohn torque arm, standard lower control arms, panhard bar wouldnt hurt either.

50/50 drag struts

maybe even try the spohn rear drag sway bar.

eibach drag springs, then buy another airbag for the drivers side.

SUFRAME CONNECTORS, like spohn then one step further and try to put on like the alston bolt in ones for the inner frame. also might need a roll cage with that much power.

you want this type of traction right





:hail:

 

I was flipping through a parts mag. the other day and saw a bottle of VHT. You know, the sticky stuff they treat the track with. I was curious if you could spray/rub some on your tires for a run? I am sure you couldnt in a competion, but for a test run..... I wonder.

 

i wanna see pics of this beast first.....sounds pretty wild.

 

That's what they use on the street here for races... you walk on it and nearly get stuck to the road lol. There's guys who are lifting the front wheels up on the street using it. Thing is, you don't rub or spray it onto your tires.

 

people with back halved, 4-linked cars with enormous tires have issues sticking less torque to the track

the quick street guys up here are running 7-8 second passes, and those are the setups they use.....and they're making around 700-800 ft/lbs

so basically, its not gonna happen

 

Put enough juice on something and you'd be surprised what a motor can do. I have another post about progressive controllers. I don't plan on hooking a 1000 off the line, but I do plan on loosing sight of the track for almost a full second.

 

thats what these guys are doing.......

if you make anywhere near that kind of power you ought to have a 4-link.....anything else would just be a bandaid

one guy is making 940hp before the 2 stage nitrous system......and it took him a whole season to get his 4-link dialed in

its a scott shafiroff big block

 

I won't be making 940. I'm shooting for low 700's (710-740). But a good portion of that is going to be w/ nitrous which gives a lot more tq to a motor than hp. I'm also using a progressive controller to help w/ some traction issues. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I bought a bottle of that once. You pour some on the ground in front of your back tires, roll through it, then do a burnout to make them sticky. It works, but it's kind of gay if you think about it.

"Hey buddy, wanna race? Yeah? Just wait one second while I hop out of my vehicle and treat my tires to som VHT. Hey, where'd he go?"

 

My guess is your looking at desk top dyno. Yeah your torque will be around 1000 ft/lb but thats at like 2500 rpm. If your runnin that much nitrous that low I wanna be there for the first run. I'm sure you have done your HW I'm just kinda stating the obvious. Runing a 200-300 shot some where above 4 grand should be good for your HP levels without taxing the bottom end with a big hit down low....hence your choosing the progressive controler. So the 1000 ft/lb is a little optimistic.

 

Besides the obvious suspension issues which will only go so far even though these stock configurations are set-up like a ladder bar system, you are going to need big stickies, not so much wide, just tall, the taller the tire the more contact patch on the track-you'll get more rubber down with a taller tire than wider tire. I think the tallest I've seen on this board with little modification was a 30x9 while another fella is running a 29x10. If you can make it outta the hole okay and slowly bring in the rate the nitrious is being fed it might be possible to make a full pass, but everything is going to have to be dailed to the max otherwise you're going for a fun ride. Once you get the beast moving as long as you bring in the power at a controlled rate breaking the tries loose should'nt be a problem, but in any case if your feeding that much juice for that kind of power and are asking for advice-especially forgetting the obvious struts/shocks, I'd definetly buy a ticket to watch this take place, just be sure the track has plenty of **** ash and EMT's on hand when you try all this since my bet is it's gonna get ugly. Maybe take some time, get the car built for safety first-hope you gotta full cage at a minimum-then gradually increase nitrious delivery so you can work the bugs out one problem at a time and not blow the motor, put the car into the wall or worse into the other lane and hurt yourself.

 

Thanks for the help, but I can assure you I won't be flying off the track or blowing my motor anytime soon. I agree the 1000tq is optimistic, but I've tried posting questions about hooking a 250 shot and no one response, so I thought I'd have some fun w/ the topic to generate more responses.

I don't play w/ desktop dyno, or any other computor based dyno program. I don't believe they are accurate at all. I look at what other people have done study their build sheets and dyno pulls, then do the math and make an educated guess on numbers that I should be putting out. I've seen too many people be dissapointed or mislead by a computer program.

Don't worry about safety issues, I didn't ask if I needed a 12 point cage, or a parachute, although I do appreciate your concern for my safety.

Does anyone know of anything major that has to be done to fit a 28x10 in the wheel well? A don't think I have the clearance for a 29". Thanks.

 

nitrous doesnt give a motor more torque or hp relative to anything else at a given RPM....

HP is just a mathetmatical quantity derived from torque (torque x RPM / 5252)

torque is the only real measurable power output you can get from an engine in relation to racing.....

when it seems as if the motor is making alot more torque than HP....its just because its creating that torque at a lower RPM, which wont multiply enough to produce a large HP number

basically torque is a measurement of how much work an engine can do....and HP is how quickly it can do that work

 

Thanks for the info that I already know and that has been posted 100x on this board already. I still don't think I need a 4 link to hook my car. And I don't think I'm going to end up into the wall, but everyone is entitled to their opinion. I was just looking for helpfull suggestions.

 

Depending on brand you'll have to pay attention to section width, I used to run 27x11.5 Hoosier Quick Time Pro's at the begining of the season, but due to heavy race schedule and going rounds they petered out with 4 races left, so I got some almost new Hoosier full out slicks 28x10 to finish the season. These were snug width wise-height still have tons of room, but fit without beating on Weld draglite 15x10's with 5.5" BS. Next season with the new drivetrain I will need all of 29x9 and hopefully 29x10, but I'll worry about that just before the season starts so they are'nt sitting around taking up space.
You can tune and tune all day, but there comes a point where you overpower the factory style set-up no matter what goodies you have, but you have the progressive timer, so that will help alot. Heck, it took us the back half of the season to get the suspension dialed in our S-10 with a ladder bar set-up since the weight was biased so much to the front and nothing out back, what really helped and something you may want to look into is a soft hit convertor, our 60' dropped a little bit- .09, but we picked up 3mph, ran the same ET and traction never gave us a fit after the new convertor was installed which just complimented the suspension set-up.

 

well from your previous post where you said

"I won't be making 940. I'm shooting for low 700's (710-740). But a good portion of that is going to be w/ nitrous which gives a lot more tq to a motor than hp."

sure makes it sound like you didnt know that.....

everyone here gave you helpful suggestions, and then you basically blew them off and said you already knew what they were saying.

so if you already know this stuff, and your obviously capable of building a 1000ft/lb motor why are you asking questions here?

any power anyplace near that level will NEVER be able to hook up with a factory style suspension....sorry

 

hey thats new england dragway.....nice to see the home track around the board

 

no walls on the street. lol


And Kandied....trust me dood, you don't wanna see pictures, unless theyre action shots.

Ugly bastard, but right effective.



-JT

 

I knew that track looked familliar!!!

 

concerning your tires slicks, there are 2 different types, i cant remember what they are and i will look into it but one type works better with the harder hitting nature of a stick and the other does better with an auto.... like i said i realy cant remeber off the top of my head but somone should remember now that ive said this... this should help you a long way towards traction. soon as i find out some more info on it ill let you know. good uck with the car and post some pics

 

hey i know a certain high tq car hooks up on a factory STYLE suspension, upgraded with the best aftermarket goodies.... also i think the editor of gmhtp' red iroc on spray cranks out close to 700lbs, and im prety sure hes on a stoc style.... dont quote me on the last part.... oh i dont mean any offense 383

 

ya theres a great way to do that....and lower your et's significantly at the same time.....its called a progressive controller

basically what it comes down to is, there is no way to reliably setup a 3 link stock style and geometry f-body suspension to plant that kind of power without some serious work.....and it cant be done as cheaply as you could do it with a 4-link, or the lift bar setup that i have.

if you wanna spend 10000000 bucks you can do anything you want....but there is a reason you dont see any 1000hp cars at the track with original suspension setups and stock width rims.....cause its just not worth it

at that point your talking about an 8 sec car (ballpark)

 

Well, some of that depends on how the motor is build as well. A friend I race with a 68 camaro with all factory suspension, updated bushing, running 9.80's on a 10" tire. Drives it on the street too-not daily however. Strictly NA 468cid. He built it to be a slouch out of the hole so traction wouldn't be an issue, but it's a definate high winder and it needs to stay wound up also. It's funny watching it leave cause the back end hardly squats, the front end maybe raises the shocks a couple inches and then it pulls off high 9 sec passes all day. When he first put chapter 7 (name of the BBC) back in for the fall series, alot of the fellas gambling in the stands lost alot of cash the first pass he made

 

ya, but 1000ft/lbs is a low 8 second car with the weight of the average 3rd gen any day of the week......which is an entirely different animal

 

well is it easier to backhalf a car or build up a stock 3 link... i honestly dont know? i also think he doesnt wanna b/h or 4link the car. regardless of the fact yes we all know he would be better with a 4link w 1000 tq but he wants to do it with 3 link... besides is he really gonna have anything over 800lbs at the rear wheels? (also i dont know)

 

Why not put a rear frame rail in and put some laddar bars in?

Kat

 

well basically......i doubt it....but for arguments sake im just going with the 1000.

you could just use tough 3-link parts and the car would run alright......theres just not alot of chance its gonna hook up very well.....and it will be tough to launch it straight

 

Just something else to throw out there. How about sub-frames and the bmr X treme trak pak setup that may help a bit?

Trak Pak Xtreme
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/XtremeDuty.htm

Just a thought.

 

my 2 cents: With enough planning and money sure you could hook with stock suspension but I think you'd be better off with ladders bars. Anyone who can cut, measure, and weld could do it and it'd probably cost less and give better / more consistant performance out of them. Theres a guy in my area going low 8's on a 10.50" tire ladder bar IROC ...actually I think hes dipped into the 7's a few times