Installing new bearings?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Texas: Its a whole other country.
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.0
Installing new bearings?
I did a search but did not find anything to answer this question, which is simply, I need to replace the front driver's side bearings, I have the parts, just need a write up on the instructions. Would anyone be kind enough to write out the how-to?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I'm going to assume this is wheel bearings you're asking about...
Remove the brake caliper and support on something (don't let it hang from the line). Take off the cotter pin and nut and washer, and pull out the outer bearing. Pull off the rotor. Set it down with the outer bearing facing you. With a BFH and a big punch or a big dull cold chisel or something like that, know the inner cone and seal out of the back of the rotor. Wipe out the inside of the hub; you'll see 2 little grooves that allow access to the back side of the inner bearing's outer race. Knock the race out with the Neanderthal tool. Flip the rotor over, and do the same to the outer bearing's outer race. Wipe the spindle clean with a towel; the seal surface, where the bearings go, and the threads.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Knock the races into the rotor with the tools, and use a flat block of wood and one enormous whap of the BFH to knock the seal in; don't try to tap it in around the edge. Make sure you pack both of the new cones full of grease. That is, up under the cage that holds the rollers, that entire volume should be completely full, with no air pockets. It's not necessary to put more grease anywhere else, except a thin coating on the washer, on the surfaces of the spindle where the cones ride, and on the surface of the seal. Tighten the nut while turning the rotor until you begin to feel drag on the rotor; tighten it about 1/12 turn more, then back it off, then tighten it to where you begin to feel drag again, then continue tightening until the first crenellation onthe castle nut lines up with the cotter pin hole.
Remove the brake caliper and support on something (don't let it hang from the line). Take off the cotter pin and nut and washer, and pull out the outer bearing. Pull off the rotor. Set it down with the outer bearing facing you. With a BFH and a big punch or a big dull cold chisel or something like that, know the inner cone and seal out of the back of the rotor. Wipe out the inside of the hub; you'll see 2 little grooves that allow access to the back side of the inner bearing's outer race. Knock the race out with the Neanderthal tool. Flip the rotor over, and do the same to the outer bearing's outer race. Wipe the spindle clean with a towel; the seal surface, where the bearings go, and the threads.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Knock the races into the rotor with the tools, and use a flat block of wood and one enormous whap of the BFH to knock the seal in; don't try to tap it in around the edge. Make sure you pack both of the new cones full of grease. That is, up under the cage that holds the rollers, that entire volume should be completely full, with no air pockets. It's not necessary to put more grease anywhere else, except a thin coating on the washer, on the surfaces of the spindle where the cones ride, and on the surface of the seal. Tighten the nut while turning the rotor until you begin to feel drag on the rotor; tighten it about 1/12 turn more, then back it off, then tighten it to where you begin to feel drag again, then continue tightening until the first crenellation onthe castle nut lines up with the cotter pin hole.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 847
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From: NJ fo0
Car: 1986/88 Frankenstein Trans Am
Engine: carbed L98
Transmission: T-5
a little trick: when my friend replaced his rotors on his 86 camaro he put the castle nut back on and just pulled the rotor away from the car to get the bearing out.
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From: northeast ohio
Car: 2000 astro
Engine: 4.3
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 3.42 gears
just to add one thing...
as far as grease.... you NEED to use a grease that is specifically for wheel bearings. a wheel bearing grease is formulated for the high temperatures that you'll enounter with wheel bearings.
it will say "wheel bearing and chassis grease" right on the tub. if you're not sure, any competent parts counterman will be able to get you the proper grease.
as far as grease.... you NEED to use a grease that is specifically for wheel bearings. a wheel bearing grease is formulated for the high temperatures that you'll enounter with wheel bearings.
it will say "wheel bearing and chassis grease" right on the tub. if you're not sure, any competent parts counterman will be able to get you the proper grease.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103
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From: Texas: Its a whole other country.
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.0
We did complete this, with the help of a NJ F-Body member and a friend, and several days work due to the jack we used bending. (Nothing was damaged except the jack we just had to wait to get a new jack the next day). I thank you for your advice and help in this, the car now runs as it should.
Also, though someone else did tell us this on NJFBODY.com, I have to say had someone not mentioned it, I would not have known. So thank you, because I probably would have driven on a nongreased bearing otherwise.
Also, though someone else did tell us this on NJFBODY.com, I have to say had someone not mentioned it, I would not have known. So thank you, because I probably would have driven on a nongreased bearing otherwise.
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