is there such thing? i know summit has bulk steel braided line that they sell and the fittings.. i was wondering has anyone tried this??
i was installing the earls lines that replace the shabby rubber ones, and i snapped the brake line in the rear from the master cylinder. i spent 8 hours trying to bend tube to make it work and i just said **** it...
so does anyone know where i can get hose? is there any precut stuff?
i was installing the earls lines that replace the shabby rubber ones, and i snapped the brake line in the rear from the master cylinder. i spent 8 hours trying to bend tube to make it work and i just said **** it...
so does anyone know where i can get hose? is there any precut stuff?
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The braided steel line is flexable. You don't want to replace your whole steel hardline with that.
cause chances are the junkyard car is rusted all to hell... whats the point of using rusty *** lines to replace rusty *** lines?
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more then likely only the outside has some surface rust and not the inside. I would rather put a hardline then to replace it with a braided line. Your rear brakes are probably gonna get a little weaker also if dont use the hardline. Extremely weaker?...maybe not but there will probably be a difference.
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Quote:
Originally posted by HamSpiced
cause chances are the junkyard car is rusted all to hell... whats the point of using rusty *** lines to replace rusty *** lines?
Si! Originally posted by HamSpiced
cause chances are the junkyard car is rusted all to hell... whats the point of using rusty *** lines to replace rusty *** lines?
To answer your original post, I do not believe that a ss braided is a good replacement for hard lines (ala Justin). Particularly if this is the main trunk coming from the master cylinder (is this the case?).
I would check inlinetube.com or similar. I know they offer ss hard line, I think they may even offer stock lines as well. They are around $155 (OEM) to $180 (SS) for a set. From my own experience, make sure they get the thread pitch correct. There are other suppliers: classictube.com and so on.
If your stock line broke, it might be an indicator of trouble to come. Maybe time to replace them all? I can't tell without seeing them.
Anyway, with new hardlines and the Earl's, you should feel some difference over stock.
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Quote:
Originally posted by HamSpiced
cause chances are the junkyard car is rusted all to hell... whats the point of using rusty *** lines to replace rusty *** lines?
If the lines have brake fluid in them there wont be any rust at all.Originally posted by HamSpiced
cause chances are the junkyard car is rusted all to hell... whats the point of using rusty *** lines to replace rusty *** lines?
well... then i guess im gonan check the prices of local brake shops to see how much theyll charge to put new hard lines in for me...
in the mean time ill put a plug in the single line that goes back to the rears, just os i can drive it to the brake shop.......
in the mean time ill put a plug in the single line that goes back to the rears, just os i can drive it to the brake shop.......
i just went to the Inlinetube.com place and it looks like i may go with them...
their stainless steel lines are only like 180, and its a 7pc set????
i dont get that....
2 for the front,
one from the master to the rear axle
then from the middle of rear axle to each wheel
thats... only 5???
wheres the other 2?
their stainless steel lines are only like 180, and its a 7pc set????
i dont get that....
2 for the front,
one from the master to the rear axle
then from the middle of rear axle to each wheel
thats... only 5???
wheres the other 2?
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I think:
2 from the MC to the prop. valve.
2 from the prop valve to each front disc.
1 from the prop valve to the rear (rear main trunk).
2 to each of the rear wheels.
=7.
Make sure they get the threads right, particularly with the ones that go from the MC to the prop. valve.
S-D
2 from the MC to the prop. valve.
2 from the prop valve to each front disc.
1 from the prop valve to the rear (rear main trunk).
2 to each of the rear wheels.
=7.
Make sure they get the threads right, particularly with the ones that go from the MC to the prop. valve.
S-D
they said the threads for the car are exact to what the factory had... pretty good deal imho