I heard the axel tubes on the 10 bolt should be welded where they meet the center section to make the rear housing stronger. I already re-built the rear with an eaton posi, moser 28 spline axels, 3.73 ring and pinion set, and a T/A diff girdle. I want to make this rear as strong as it can get, so will this really make a big difference in strength? also can this be done with the rear all together? or do the axels have to be pulled and all that crap? I would hate to ruin those nice new (and pricey) axels by welding those up. some body please clear this up

 

yeah i wanna know also. id like to do this with my rear but im not sure if you have to drain the fluid first or do anything.

 

I dont see why it would hurt, and I would think it would be okay with everything in the axle. However, I doubt it would make the axle all that much stronger. I think most of the time when someone breaks a rear end, its usually just shearing teeth off the ring gear, or splines off the axles.

 

see I was told that with a quality parts rebuild the the thing that kills a 10 bolt is either the axel tubes flexing because they are a smaller tubing (welding makes housing stiffer) and that the diff has a tendency to start walk under hevy load (the reason for the girdle with the pre-loads)

 

weld the tubes and a braced cover is suspose to add 40% strength to the rear. i've welded rears without draining them, but i think i'd drain it.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...nguprear.shtml

http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html


its a great idea to weld the tubes since they seem to be only tac welded from the factory. i would be safe and drain the fluid because that rear end will get hot.

when i did relocation brackets where the lower control arms that whole side of the rear ned u can see change color from the heat.

i am going to try and maybe one day use an arc welder my friends has and see what it will do.