Does the ball joint dust cover go onto the ball joint before it it pressed into the control arm?


I rented a separator and press from AutoZone to change my ball joints. I've never done this before. I did one side already and put the cover up in the hole then pressed the new ball joint into it. It worked fine and seems to be how the old ball joints were done. Was this correct?

One reason I'm asking this that on this page http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/balljointreplacement.html it says

"Ball joint is now "pressed" in. Put the dust boot over the ball joint stud."

Ignoring the fact that this person didn't use a press, does the cover go on like this after the ball joint is installed? I don't see how it would seal very well this way.

 

I put the boots on mine after they were pressed in. I would say that getting the boots on all the way was harder than getting the ball joints pressed into the arm. I used a driver and a hammer to work them into place so that they sealed against the arm. When the spindle is bolted up to the ball joint the boot will be compressed which should also help with the seal.

 

that is my tech article. the dust boot seals around the ball joint housing. not the arm. you put the boot on after you press it in so you don't tear it installing the ball joint.

yes a press is the "correct" way to do it. also the way it was done from the factory. but not necessary as you can see. i've seen ball joint presses break apart under pressure. seen them coming flying apart because the joint went in crooked and the person just kept pressing.

 

I am about to do a front end rebuild.

Should I try the press or can I get away without it.

 

This past weekend I just rebuilt my front end and used a ball joint press I had bought from Harbor Freight. It took a lot of brute force (1/2" breaker bar with jack handle slipped over the end to get enough leverage), but I was able to press out one ball joint and install the new one with the tool.

However, when I went to do the second ball joint the tool failed (literally broke) so I ended up pulling the second A-arm and running to the machine shop.

For me, it's typically been easier just to run the A-arms over to a local machine shop and have them press out the old ball joints and install the new ones. It can be done by hand, but for $20 and an hour of time I think it's less of a PITA to let the machine shop do it.

 

but when removing the lower control arm, you then get to play with removing the spring and reinstalling it. so great idea to replace those minimum 12+ year old springs. and here's another one of my tech articles on doing that. http://www.fl-thirdgen.org/frontspringswap.html

 

My control arm will be off when I do this probably. Since I will be doing a spring swap. I do not know if I will be able to run it to the machine shop though. Family is down to 2 cars (95 mustang GT through a rod) so I may not have more transportation.

I'll have to see.

 

Then go to the junkyard and get yourself a spare pair of control arms, since they're real cheap; and take those to the local shop and get BJs and bushings put into them, that way they're sitting there ready when you do the work.

 

I may try that. If I can even find a thirdgen at a junkyard around here.

Junk yards here are terrible...I'd probably have to drive and hour and a half to find some. All the stupid hillbillies here just have thirdgens all over there yards lol. I hate WV lol...

 

The control arms on these cars aren't specific to these cars; they have the mounting hole for front shocks, for example, which these cars don't have. They fit something else too, probably A & G bodies. They're real cheap and easy to find.

Or you could find a hillbilly that's low on beer or something, and ask him for the ones out of his front yard.

 

lol...I could do that I guess.

Buddy of mine (well ex-buddy) has a parts car. He may sell me the control arms from it but I'm not sure. We aren't on the best of terms. I may have to call him and see. I want a few things off the car he has.

Does anyplace sell tubular control arms for our cars?

 

www.paracing.com

 

Besides being slightly lighter what would tubular a arms do for performance.

Also...I thought our K-members were welded in yet they sell tubular ones...I'm sure I'm wrong but I was just wondering.