Brake Bleeder won't open! Help ASAP
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Brake Bleeder won't open! Help ASAP
I am trying to bleed my brakes, and I cannot open the damn bleeder valve. I was told it was a 10mm, but no it's not. It's smaller than 10mm but larger than 9mm. If I continue using my 10mm I will round the thing off. What do I do? I cannot drive my car until I bleed the brakes, and today is my anniversary with the gf so SHE has to drive everywhere and I feel like a loser. "It's always something with you and your car!"
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I think it's smaller.
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
If its stock its 10 MM>>>>> BUT biggest problem is they round easily.... BEST advice I can give is FIND/BUY a 6 POINT socket or 6 point wrench to loosen it... Usually they round when people use a 12 point wrench to loosen them...
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by RB83L69
If it's a front, a whole rebuilt caliper is like $12. Just change them both out and be done with it.
If it's a front, a whole rebuilt caliper is like $12. Just change them both out and be done with it.
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Originally posted by Token
that's cheap! Are there any "upgrades" I can do, IE a two-piston caliper or something? Anything is better than our stock brakes.
that's cheap! Are there any "upgrades" I can do, IE a two-piston caliper or something? Anything is better than our stock brakes.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Petes 84Z28
Yeah...but it won't be done in one day
Yeah...but it won't be done in one day
should I attempt to Vice Grip this bastard off, and put it back on until I get to the store for a new one? or do I just sit here and cry about it?
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If it was me, I'd walk to the store, or use one of my other cars, or borrow one, or call somebody and get a ride. Half-assing brakes and driving around on them isn't my idea of a good idea, if you know what I mean.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
WELL THAT WAS GAY
I broke the bleeder valve off... I didn't round it off, it just friggin snapped!
So I "bled" them the ghetto way; I let the soft line hang until it began to drip (3 drips per second sound good?) with the cap off the resivoir. I manually filled the caliper (which I had used a C-clamp to push the piston in) with brake fluid from the can. I put the bolt through the soft line and let it drip in a little bit. I tightened the bolt and put the caliper back on. Brakes are ultra soft but 100x better than they were. This means there's still a little air in there, right?
Any suggestions? This sucks!
I broke the bleeder valve off... I didn't round it off, it just friggin snapped!
So I "bled" them the ghetto way; I let the soft line hang until it began to drip (3 drips per second sound good?) with the cap off the resivoir. I manually filled the caliper (which I had used a C-clamp to push the piston in) with brake fluid from the can. I put the bolt through the soft line and let it drip in a little bit. I tightened the bolt and put the caliper back on. Brakes are ultra soft but 100x better than they were. This means there's still a little air in there, right?
Any suggestions? This sucks!
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
Originally posted by Token
This means there's still a little air in there, right?
This means there's still a little air in there, right?
Originally posted by Token
Any suggestions? This sucks!
Any suggestions? This sucks!
Put some anti-seize on the threads of the 'new' bleed screw.
Don't let the master cylinder run dry of fluid while working on it.
Don't pi<x>ss into the wind. Don't eat yellow snow.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by RB83L69
Yeah, that's what they do. Pretty common.
Looks like it's time to replace the calipers.
Yeah, that's what they do. Pretty common.
Looks like it's time to replace the calipers.
How much more persay would some "performance" calipers cost me?
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Token
So replacing the calipers isn't a big deal? I mean, not a big costly expense? I've replaced my pads and rotors before but I didn't mess with the fluid. I just compressed the pistons and that was that. Where can I get cheap replacements aside from the obvious two answers (ebay/junkyard)? My pads are still pretty newish with about 12k miles on them- is that normal wear?
How much more persay would some "performance" calipers cost me?
So replacing the calipers isn't a big deal? I mean, not a big costly expense? I've replaced my pads and rotors before but I didn't mess with the fluid. I just compressed the pistons and that was that. Where can I get cheap replacements aside from the obvious two answers (ebay/junkyard)? My pads are still pretty newish with about 12k miles on them- is that normal wear?
How much more persay would some "performance" calipers cost me?
just undo the same bolts to take it off, take off the line, walk to the store and swapem for $12.
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
btw, you DONT want "the performance package" brakes.
thoes are 1LE brakes
and you dont have a 1LE car
and theres more envolved in the 1LE swap then the calipers.
just go buy the $12 caliper, bleed it, and drive away...
thoes are 1LE brakes
and you dont have a 1LE car
and theres more envolved in the 1LE swap then the calipers.
just go buy the $12 caliper, bleed it, and drive away...
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by MrDude_1
btw, you DONT want "the performance package" brakes.
thoes are 1LE brakes
and you dont have a 1LE car
and theres more envolved in the 1LE swap then the calipers.
just go buy the $12 caliper, bleed it, and drive away...
btw, you DONT want "the performance package" brakes.
thoes are 1LE brakes
and you dont have a 1LE car
and theres more envolved in the 1LE swap then the calipers.
just go buy the $12 caliper, bleed it, and drive away...
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Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Token
I meant if there was a 2-piston non 1LE or something Anyway, $12-ish at any parts center with a core trade in?
I meant if there was a 2-piston non 1LE or something Anyway, $12-ish at any parts center with a core trade in?
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Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Brake Bleeder won't open! Help ASAP
While you are buying new calipers, get some Speed Bleeders.
They replace the standard bleeder screw, and they have a spring and check ball inside.
All you have to do to bleed is loosen them about 1/4 turn and pump the brakes. When all the air is removed, then tighten them.
Do 1 wheel at a time. Use a 6 point wrench or socket to prevent rounding. Do not let the master cylinder get empty.
They replace the standard bleeder screw, and they have a spring and check ball inside.
All you have to do to bleed is loosen them about 1/4 turn and pump the brakes. When all the air is removed, then tighten them.
Do 1 wheel at a time. Use a 6 point wrench or socket to prevent rounding. Do not let the master cylinder get empty.
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