how to bleed the 1LE's?
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Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 409
Likes: 5
From: Manati, PR
Car: Trans Am "GTA"
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Auto
how to bleed the 1LE's?
Im installing braded lines & new calipers all way round. & Ive never blead a system before.
1. What tools do I need & what are the best systems for this job.
2. Can someone tell me step by step how to do it.
3. I want to get rid of all the old fluid while Im in the proses.
4. How do I make shure I dont have water in the lines, they have been disconected for a couple of days and its been raining non stop. (Ive heard that brake fluid sucks moisture)
If you guys can think of something that I might have forgoten or probably dont know, that might help my lerning let me know.
1. What tools do I need & what are the best systems for this job.
2. Can someone tell me step by step how to do it.
3. I want to get rid of all the old fluid while Im in the proses.
4. How do I make shure I dont have water in the lines, they have been disconected for a couple of days and its been raining non stop. (Ive heard that brake fluid sucks moisture)
If you guys can think of something that I might have forgoten or probably dont know, that might help my lerning let me know.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
The minimum tools you need are a wrench (preferrably a flare wrench) and a friend.
If your old fluid is nasty and gross, you can start by gravity bleeding, open all the bleeders slightly and let the fluid dribble out. Keep topping up the level in the master cylinder reservoir so you don't let it run dry. As you start seeing nice clean fluid coming out of the bleeders, you can close them, and then bleed them in sequence, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and working to the closest. Open the bleeder on the corner you're working on and have your friend depress the pedal. When the pedal is fully depressed, close the bleeder and have them release the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles out of the bleeder while it's open. Again, make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry. Air in the master cylinder is a Bad Thing.
Unless your master cylinder has been open and collecting rain, don't worry about water in the system. Brake fluid is supposed to absorb moisture, to prevent water from collecting in the system and causing corrosion.
If your old fluid is nasty and gross, you can start by gravity bleeding, open all the bleeders slightly and let the fluid dribble out. Keep topping up the level in the master cylinder reservoir so you don't let it run dry. As you start seeing nice clean fluid coming out of the bleeders, you can close them, and then bleed them in sequence, starting with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and working to the closest. Open the bleeder on the corner you're working on and have your friend depress the pedal. When the pedal is fully depressed, close the bleeder and have them release the pedal. Repeat until no air bubbles out of the bleeder while it's open. Again, make sure you don't let the reservoir run dry. Air in the master cylinder is a Bad Thing.
Unless your master cylinder has been open and collecting rain, don't worry about water in the system. Brake fluid is supposed to absorb moisture, to prevent water from collecting in the system and causing corrosion.
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