To drop or not to drop....
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
To drop or not to drop....
Hey guys,
I have a 91 RS Convertable. I am redoing the suspension and I just cant decide which springs to get. Im not sure if I want to drop it or not. I was about to buy the MOOG replacement springs.. But then I stopped to post this question. My car has 127,000 on it and the stock suspension is definitly shot. When I stop for a red light you can feel the car bounce up & down for a few seconds & the ride just plain sucks. I would like to keep about the same height that I am now. I already scrape on a few speed bumps in my area. Any lower and I might not make it over those bumps. But i dont know if scraping because the stock springs are sagging or if the car is just susposed to be that low. I dont want to order stock height springs, and end up raising my car up an inch. How can I tell how much (if any) my stock springs are sagging? What is the fenderwell gap susposed to be on stock springs? Oh.. And I already ordered a new set of shocks.
Thanks,
Mark B
I have a 91 RS Convertable. I am redoing the suspension and I just cant decide which springs to get. Im not sure if I want to drop it or not. I was about to buy the MOOG replacement springs.. But then I stopped to post this question. My car has 127,000 on it and the stock suspension is definitly shot. When I stop for a red light you can feel the car bounce up & down for a few seconds & the ride just plain sucks. I would like to keep about the same height that I am now. I already scrape on a few speed bumps in my area. Any lower and I might not make it over those bumps. But i dont know if scraping because the stock springs are sagging or if the car is just susposed to be that low. I dont want to order stock height springs, and end up raising my car up an inch. How can I tell how much (if any) my stock springs are sagging? What is the fenderwell gap susposed to be on stock springs? Oh.. And I already ordered a new set of shocks.
Thanks,
Mark B
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
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From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
The bouncing is probably due to worn out struts.The gap between tire/fender stock is about 2in.Id lower it 1-1 1/2 not more though or youll have to use drop spindles.Which in my opinion drop the front too much.If your scrapping alot try going slower over speed bumps.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 647
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
So a 2" fenderwell gap is with the stock springs? Cool.. I will have to measure mine today. When I said that I ordered a set of shocks already, I actually meant shocks/struts. I really cant go any slower over the bumps. I am barely moving when I go over as it is. The bumps are catching my SFC's
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 405
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
My SFC also scrape on some speed bumps.With a 1.25 drop in Fr & 1.5 Rr.thats about as low as i want it.Nice thing about the ground control is i can always raise it back up.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 405
From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Kind of,Well its a shorther coil but instead of going on the shock/strut it mounts in the stock location.The springs use a threaded insert & spanner nut to compress the coil allowing you to lower the suspension.To raise your car you just reverse the spanner nut.
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Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
I have a vert too that had a shot suspension and here's what I wished I had done before the drop:
Rebuild the steering linkage, mine was shot and lowering it made it even harder to control, right after I did it night and day difference.
Put in frame reinforcement too. I have the mac SFCS as well, but I found that having a wonderbar and a STB made things even nicer.
Other then that, make sure you have good shocks and struts, then put in the springs.
I'm wondering if the KYBs were a good investment. I'm seriously debating some Bilsteins so I can see how they are.
Rebuild the steering linkage, mine was shot and lowering it made it even harder to control, right after I did it night and day difference.
Put in frame reinforcement too. I have the mac SFCS as well, but I found that having a wonderbar and a STB made things even nicer.
Other then that, make sure you have good shocks and struts, then put in the springs.
I'm wondering if the KYBs were a good investment. I'm seriously debating some Bilsteins so I can see how they are.
kybs are not an investment...they are a bandaid. bilsteins are well worth the penny. koni yellow if you want to fine tune but even at best the bilsteins are superb. bilstein or qa1 billet 12 ways are excellent but overpriced.
bilsteins aren't that expensive, once you own a set you'll know why.
bilsteins aren't that expensive, once you own a set you'll know why.
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From: RogueValley, Oregon
Car: 84Z & Porsche
Engine: 427sbc - 471 - 850 Demon Claw
Transmission: Bowtie stage II TH700R4 - 10" 3000
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt w/ 3:45's
Good ol' J.C. Whitney
I have seen in the J. C. Whitney catalogue a set of coil depressors (SP) that actually bolt on and compress the coil springs...would these be a worth while purchase to try before going to the real thing....lowering springs??? Thanks, Cocacolakid
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Re: Good ol' J.C. Whitney
Originally posted by cocacolakidd
I have seen in the J. C. Whitney catalogue a set of coil depressors (SP) that actually bolt on and compress the coil springs...would these be a worth while purchase to try before going to the real thing....lowering springs??? Thanks, Cocacolakid
I have seen in the J. C. Whitney catalogue a set of coil depressors (SP) that actually bolt on and compress the coil springs...would these be a worth while purchase to try before going to the real thing....lowering springs??? Thanks, Cocacolakid
No, the spring is meant to hold a certain load while allowing a certain amount of travel at a certain height. You might be able to get the look, but in an unsafe manner (see if they're DOT approved) and by sacrificing handling and comfort.
Prokits=Good
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From: RogueValley, Oregon
Car: 84Z & Porsche
Engine: 427sbc - 471 - 850 Demon Claw
Transmission: Bowtie stage II TH700R4 - 10" 3000
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt w/ 3:45's
To drop or not to drop
Yes I know of J. C. Whitneys rep....but the question was - to get an idea of, if I wanted to lower my car would they do for a short time to see if I really wanted to spend the money for the good regular springs....just to try not to keep them there...that to me would be scarrrrrey - knowing J.C. Whitney's products....thanks, Cocacolakidd.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
I just did the prokit/bilstein combo, I didn't wnat to go too low because I was concerned about ground clearance.
I'm very happy with the combo. I have no hesitation recommending the prokit. It did drop the car about 3/4 of an inch for me but still plenty of ground clearance.
I would never put stock height springs in again! It handles so well and has a nice stance. IMO
I'm very happy with the combo. I have no hesitation recommending the prokit. It did drop the car about 3/4 of an inch for me but still plenty of ground clearance.
I would never put stock height springs in again! It handles so well and has a nice stance. IMO
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by JerseyMark
How is ride quality with the ProKit?
How is ride quality with the ProKit?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 647
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1991 RS Convertible
Engine: 96 LT1
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9-Bolt
I dont mind firm... But I do mind jolting. If I hit a bump and it feels like the car just broke in half... I will be very disapointed.
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From: Everett, WA
Car: 87' IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Have you ever been in a thirdgen with WS6 or FE2 suspension? They are substantially firmer than the standard RS suspension. The prokit is firmer yet. I recomend the prokit, its great, not unbearable at all to my tastes. But everyone is different.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by JerseyMark
I dont mind firm... But I do mind jolting. If I hit a bump and it feels like the car just broke in half... I will be very disapointed.
I dont mind firm... But I do mind jolting. If I hit a bump and it feels like the car just broke in half... I will be very disapointed.
I like it, I like a firm ride not jolting.
Pro-Kit Questions
Hey Guys,
I have an '87 Iroc 5-speed that I am setting up for Solo2 Auto-X... I have been looking at the pro-kit but am unsure of the right shock/strut set to go with the springs... I am steering towards the Koni Adjustable yellows as I think I would like to have the option to fiddle if I need to...
Can anyone offer some insight?
Thanks!
I have an '87 Iroc 5-speed that I am setting up for Solo2 Auto-X... I have been looking at the pro-kit but am unsure of the right shock/strut set to go with the springs... I am steering towards the Koni Adjustable yellows as I think I would like to have the option to fiddle if I need to...
Can anyone offer some insight?
Thanks!
Last edited by telstar; Aug 18, 2004 at 01:27 PM.
Member
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From: RogueValley, Oregon
Car: 84Z & Porsche
Engine: 427sbc - 471 - 850 Demon Claw
Transmission: Bowtie stage II TH700R4 - 10" 3000
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt w/ 3:45's
Rear Rotors
Need rear rotors (Cross drilled and ball mill slotted) for 1988 Camaro with GM-Australian 9bolt rear...10.5" Diameter X .987 section.. the wheel lug pattern is standard chevy 5 x 4 3/4"...also need pads for same. Any one know who produces these parts for the 9 bolt rears?
Thanks, Cocacolakidd
Thanks, Cocacolakidd
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
Originally posted by JerseyMark
I dont mind firm... But I do mind jolting. If I hit a bump and it feels like the car just broke in half... I will be very disapointed.
I dont mind firm... But I do mind jolting. If I hit a bump and it feels like the car just broke in half... I will be very disapointed.
Member
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
From: RogueValley, Oregon
Car: 84Z & Porsche
Engine: 427sbc - 471 - 850 Demon Claw
Transmission: Bowtie stage II TH700R4 - 10" 3000
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt w/ 3:45's
Wonder bar
I now have a wonderbar and a 36mm front sway bar...Top strut brace....lowered 1 3/4" front and 1 1/2" rear" . Just put on 16" x 10" rims with 1 1/2 spacers ( these were needed to clear back struts). Next is to install total performance Urethane components along with Bilstines struts and shocks - I have a pair of MOD STRUT CAMBER BRACKETS. Those will go on tomorrow. Should handle fair to good so far....any other suggestions? I can not find a 1 1/8"rear sway bar for this 84Z....hummm where to look? The ride is still good although a little stiffer than before. Any more ideas welcomed. Thanks, Cocacolakidd
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