I just installed my tubular kmember and aarms this weekend.

Did anyone have problems with the supplied white nylon bushings and steel sleeves that came w/ the profab aarms? Did you use the stock bolts on the aarms or did you find a bigger diameter bolt? The way it is now the Aarms are pivoting on the bolts and not the nylon/steel sleeve. Is this correct?

 

Update- I'm currently using the stock bolts and double nutted them so the aarms could move freely without worry of having just a single nut back out. I suppose I could use a locknut if I replace the bolts, just curious what anyone else did?

 

so how do you like the parts? any problems getting them in?
i'm thinking about getting the same thing from profab

 

I replaced all of the bolts with 1/2 13 grade 8`s I used the lock nuts with the plastic washers at the ends, with the 1/2 bolts I tourqed them down to 80 ftlbs. the steel tubes inside the nylon bushings should lock onto the frame and not twist, the bushings should move with the arm.

 

Rage13 I like the parts, recieved them within a week. Painted them with a three step rattle can process (silver) base/color/clear, I do some back road bombing and powder coat doesn't hold up any better than paint on gravel roads. The xmember sticks down about an 1 1/2" more than stock, and I didn't use the stock rubber snubbers for the springs so I have about 2" of ground clearance now oh well, nothing a new set of springs won't cure.

The local hardware was out of grade 8.8 12mm 1.75 bolts of the right length (for the xmember) so I had to buy longer bolts and grind 1/2" off them! Installed everything and took it for a test drive. Nothing's ever a bolt on deal for me it seems...

The frontend alignment was all whacky, Extreme toe out! I cranked the tierods closer together and it handles the same or better than it did before the install so i'm pleased.

greezemonkey Thank you, just the info I was looking for. I will install diff. bolts when I do the springs and other frontend goodies.