ok - got my control arms, springs, and struts out of the front end and still need to drop the cross-member. calipers are hanging for now, but what i need to know is if the x-member just drops out after removing the big bolts and braces, or if there are nuts on the other side and if so, how to get to them. also, as far as brake lines, they wrap around the x-member somewhat, but should be ok to carefully bend them out of the way and leave the calipers hanging? it's not a big deal if i mess them up, but am gonna try not to and would rather leave the brakes intact, if possible. i really just need to know about dropping the x-member. and about how much it weighs so i don't get a big surprise when it does drop out... thanks.

KAM

 

The nuts for those bolts are supposed to be captivated.

Yes, it pretty much just falls off, once the bolts are removed; no surprises to speak of.

It weighs maybe 70 lbs.... not really very much at all.

I think it would be common-sensical to remove the calipers, as easy as it is. I believe it would be easier to do that than to fight them being in the way. It's always easier to move big things around underneath a car, when you don't have alot of obstructions. It's that much less stuff left dangling around to get in the way and suffer or cause damage.

 

K-Member weighs aprox 48lbs with everything removed from it, thats what mine wieghs after being sandblasted and powdercoated black. It will come right out after removing the 6 bolts. There are two alignment pins to keep it lined up but have nothing to do with keeping it in the car. If you have someone to help its a breeze. I took the bolts out of one side, placed a hydraulic jack under the pass side where I could control it from the driver side of the car. Took out the bolts on driver side and kind of let it all down at once. I would recomend going ahead and removing the calipers and lines before dropping it to prevent damaging the lines.................................jt

 

ok - thanks. sounds as easy as it looked. i just wanted to be sure. as for the calipers and brake lines, i was also trying to find some plugs or bolts to put in the p-valve when i took the lines off, but haven't been able to find any. supposedly they're an M12x1. does the p-valve actually discharge fluid statically without the brake pedal being mashed? i just don't want fluid leaking anywhere...

jt - what did it cost to have your stuff powdercoated?

KAM

 

it'll slowly drip.


intresting that you got 48lbs... mine was greasy/dirty and weighed 45lbs. eh, probly diffrent scales...

 

I paid $60 to have my K-member and A-arms sandblasted and powder coated black.................jt

 

Make sure that you check where the hard line runs from the prop valve to the r/s caliper, mine was clamped to the k-member in a couple of spots, so removing some of those clamps may give more room for the lines to move around obstacles as you drop the k-member. Also, you did not mention the engine, so I assume there is no engine in the car currently?

 

yea, i know about the clamps, and yes, there's no engine in it. trying to take off some of that corrosion so it'll at least look nice when it all goes back together...

KAM

 

What I meant to say is the approx. weight is between 45-48lbs.

 

I know what you mean, doing the same thing, sandblast, powdercoat, paint, etc... Have everything waiting to go back together, just waiting on my headers. Will be much easier installing them from the bottom w/o the suspension in the way.

One other thing that I thought of was those aligning pins. Be sure to keep the k-member level until those aligning pins clear. Mine hung up a little at first due to these pins catching because the k-member wanted to rotate as it came down. No biggie, pretty easy removal actually.

 

which way does it tend to rotate? rearward? that's what it looks like, i'm assuming from the way it's in there.

also, where can i get powdercoating done? anybody know? i've heard you have to "re-tap" all the holes again because powder coating closes them up.(?)

that's a good idea to leave all that suspension off for your headers - i might do that, too, but i'm so damn far behind on this now that i may not wait. i've got the time to make the suspension look good cuz my engine still ain't together (that's another story), but i still seem to be behind.

 

Yes, if I recall correctly. I used a floor jack to lower mine, that gave me a free hand to stop the rotation.

I had mine done by a local shop, about 20 minutes away from me. I actually had planned on having it sandblasted, then using zero rust to paint it. I looked in the yellow pages for someone to blast it, I found this place that did the blasting and powdercoating. When I found out how cheap it was to powdercoat it, I just went that route since I was having them blast it. Had several other pieces done while I was at it.

Know what you mean. Started tearing my car apart in June, still not back together. But on the positive note, the entire bottom of the car is now clean and painted. All suspension pieces are either painted, powdercoated, or replaced. Also upgraded to LS1 brakes on all 4 corners. The rear went back together last weekend, will be working on the front this weekend. I just wish those headers would get here.

 

i still have the rear end to do on mine... i have to get the seals replaced (again) so now i'm going to break in the engine, then clean/paint the rear at another time. it'll look like *** against the rest of the car, but only for a while...

 

Just realized that I did not answer this for you. It depends. If the bolt is a tight fit, or a thick layer of powder gets in it, you most likely will have to run a tap through it. Also, any hole that requires a tight clearance may need to be cleaned of coating, such as the front control arm bushing holes. Have not put the bushings in mine yet, but I expect that I will have to remove the coating to get the bushings in. But so far, I have not had to run a tap through anything.

If there is a hole that you do not want coated, let the powder coater know that when you drop the parts off and they can plug or tape off the hole before they spray. I had my calipers done, and they taped off the banjo bolt and bleeder holes as well as the piston bores. Everything went back together with out any issues.

 

did your calipers, too? man i bet that all looks sharp... now i might want to do mine... did you have to strip them all down? got my x-member out today. man, that was easy. thanks for all the help. i took the ol' degreaser to it and pressure washer. going to the shop monday...

 

I completely disassembled the calipers, then put them in the parts washer to get them as clean as I could. The powdercoaters did the final cleaning before coating. Here is a pic of the rear together

 

oops, helps to upload the pic before hitting the submit button.

 

wow, that looks nice...

KAM