I just bought some, and was surprised to see upon opening box that the holes where you are supposed to bolt them on to the rear end are HUGE. The holes are like 5/8 or more, and you are supposed to use a 7/16 bolt. WTF!!!! It seems like it would be hard to see that they get bolted/welded on correctly with all that slop in the bolt.

Any advice or insight appreciated. I plan on calling Spohn tomorrow.

Thanks in advance.

Josh

 

Kat

 

Well, that really doesn't tell me much, except that the 7/16 bolt was used. Why does the hole need to be so big???? Shouldn't the hole be drilled 7/16???? Or if the brackets came with 5/8 bolt..... Am I just not understanding this?????

 

Couldnt tell ya. How bout trying tech@spohn.net

Kat

 

It's because no two rears are the same.

Basically, it makes life simple by having the bracket's top hole slightly oversized. If the hole was the exact same size in the bracket and the holes did not quite line up, you couldn't get the bolt in. Remember, the top hole of the bracket is only being used to install a spacer to keep the OEM bracket from squeezing in when you use the lower holes. That bolt is still going through the OEM bracket hole, it's not like the only hole the bolt goes through is the 5/8" hole.

You center the top bracket hole with the OEM hole, you clamp the inside of the bracket's back plate tight and flush against the outside of the rear's bracket. That's all there is to it.

Steve

 

Basically what you are saying is that the hole isn't really used to line up the bracket. The bracket is mounted flush against the original mount and pushed up as "high" as it can go while still flush with the original LCA mount.

Thank you for your input Steve. I guess I won't have to call tomorrow.

 

He said you center the hole in the braket over the stock hole........

 

These things btw, are the best thing I bought for my car in regards to suspension. No more wheel hop, car hooked a little better.

-- Joe

 

I just bought some, and was surprised to see upon opening box that the holes where you are supposed to bolt them on to the rear end are HUGE. The holes are like 5/8 or more, and you are supposed to use a 7/16 bolt. WTF!!!! It seems like it would be hard to see that they get bolted/welded on correctly with all that slop in the bolt.

I have put on a lot of those...too many issues.
You can do what I do, drill the mounting holes on the housing to 1/2" and use the 1/2" bolt there and the 7/16th bolt in the bottom (it's close to the 12mm stock one).
This makes more sense to me but what do I know?
Should have bought Global West....yeah , yeah I know they are not a sponser...but they fit right.
Just my $.02

 

I got them on there, let me just say, that had to be the most uncomfortable welding position ever!!!! I did it on my garage floor with the car on jack stands.

Have you ever had a hot piece of slag jump into your ear????? OUCH!!!!

What I ended up doing was sliding the bracket into place, sticking the bolt through, and then measuring the distance from the front of the LCA to the hole. I just moved it around until the distance was the same at the top hole and the bottom hole. I tacked it into place, then checked to see that the holes followed the arc of the LCA by passing it through the mount from top to bottom.

I wasn't having a problem with wheel hop, but traction sucked since I lowered my car. I have the LCA's in the lowest hole. It seemed to make a slight difference, especially when I grabbed second gear. However, my tires were bald, so it still spun a lot. I got some nice used tires, and put them on, then it hooked pretty nicely. I think that the LCARB's only work well when you have good tires, like they complement each other. I really don't think it hooks as good as it did b4 lowering, but it corners better and is more stable at high speeds now that it is lower, so it is worth it.

 

i have the bmr bolt on brackets. i like there design much better. if i could find a lcarb that had even more adjustment so that i could set the controlarm farther down, i would buy them. my car is so low that the brackets still dont make the lca's point up, they still point down. my car once did a 1.65 60 foot on dr's with the stock gear/converter and the stock suspension, i wish i could get better! i want to get a 1.59 on bfg 255/60/16's and at least a 1.49 on et streets. ill be happy then.......

 

I do not know what kind of 60 fts I am doing yet, or b4 the lcarbs, but I will know this summer. I will let you guys know I am sure. I can give some comparison, tho. I used my gtech b4 the lcarbs and tires (Hankook Ventus K102-245/45/zr16). My best was14.45 at 109. After the tires and lcarbs I raced my buddy with his big block 1964 Chevelle. His best 1/4 was 13.2 at 104-106. He is running ET slicks, on street and strip. He says he is able to launch his 3600 lb car at 5 grand before his tires warm up. After they warm up, his car will hook too much and slip the clutch. I was able to launch pretty good, just behind him. I pulled harder to about 90 mph, then he started to catch me and I beat him by a car. He claimed his clutch was slipping. On our second race, I took of before him b/c he had a horrible reaction time. I had him by about a car right off. At about 85 mph he started pulling me like crazy, and when we crossed the line, he was back by about a fender. It was fun. I will let you guys know my 0-60 (Gtech) when the ground drys out around here.