front swaybar problem
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 634
Likes: 6
From: Richmond Hill, GA
Car: They all sit.
Engine: LS1, LB9, LB9, L98, LT1, LT4, LT4
Transmission: A4, T5, T5, A4, A4, T56, TR6060
front swaybar problem
i've got a bit of a problem with my front swaybar and tie rod ends. i cant tell if my swaybar is bent or if there is another explaniation for what is happening. while under the car, i noticed that the tie rod on the passenger side was at almost a 45* angle leaning in a ton and was actually scraping on the inner part of the a-arm, but the drivers side is perfectly fine.
could somebody post a pic from the front of what kind of angle the tie rods are suppose to be at? or tell me how to measure my swaybar to see if its not straight?
i removed the swaybar and tie rods, and bought new rods, and i need to get it al back together so i can see how much of a drop my new springs gave me.
thanks
could somebody post a pic from the front of what kind of angle the tie rods are suppose to be at? or tell me how to measure my swaybar to see if its not straight?
i removed the swaybar and tie rods, and bought new rods, and i need to get it al back together so i can see how much of a drop my new springs gave me.
thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
You will probably hear this from several people...but my solution for the swaybar is to leave it off all together. Its not necessary unless you plan on taking corners really fast or race road courses.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 634
Likes: 6
From: Richmond Hill, GA
Car: They all sit.
Engine: LS1, LB9, LB9, L98, LT1, LT4, LT4
Transmission: A4, T5, T5, A4, A4, T56, TR6060
i can seriously run without it? what will keep the wheels fron going their ow seperate way? just the steering linkage?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma
Car: 1991 Trans AM GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The swaybar has nothing to do with the wheels. Its whole purpose is to minimize body roll in corners. Yes you can run without it...I have had mine off for about 3 months or so now. The part that you are referring to that keeps the wheels from going off in different directions is the centerlink.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 1
From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
the sway bar is not connected in anyway to the wheels, the steering linkage is the only thing keeping the wheels from going thier own way. if all your concerned with is drag racing, then take it off.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 634
Likes: 6
From: Richmond Hill, GA
Car: They all sit.
Engine: LS1, LB9, LB9, L98, LT1, LT4, LT4
Transmission: A4, T5, T5, A4, A4, T56, TR6060
i got it all back together and took it for a spin, i really need some sub frame connectors, my body is twisting so bad when i hit the gas. the only other problem im having is with the drivers side front wheel. it leans in a LOT, and the passenger side is straight up no tilt. what would cause this? would an allignment solve this one? it pulls to the right a good bit.
I love the look of the car now. the front tires sit up in the wheel well and the nose is 3-4" from the ground. my only problem is that the inner fender liners are going to rub, ia it ok to run without them? what should i do?
I love the look of the car now. the front tires sit up in the wheel well and the nose is 3-4" from the ground. my only problem is that the inner fender liners are going to rub, ia it ok to run without them? what should i do?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 1
From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
yes, an alingment would cure that problem assuming nothing is bent. the measurement is camber, if its leaning in, it is negative, out=positive
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,671
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
I have no front sway bar, personally did'nt notcie any differecne once I removed mine.
The bar directly under the oil pan is the center link, the 2 items connected to the center link on each end are the inner tie rods, then the adjustment sleeve and the outter tie rods.
The pitman arm is on the drivers side connecting the steering box to the center link, and the idler arm is on the pass side connected to the car frame.
HOPEFULLY all of these are still in your car, otherwise your one luck SOB
The bar directly under the oil pan is the center link, the 2 items connected to the center link on each end are the inner tie rods, then the adjustment sleeve and the outter tie rods.
The pitman arm is on the drivers side connecting the steering box to the center link, and the idler arm is on the pass side connected to the car frame.
HOPEFULLY all of these are still in your car, otherwise your one luck SOB
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 634
Likes: 6
From: Richmond Hill, GA
Car: They all sit.
Engine: LS1, LB9, LB9, L98, LT1, LT4, LT4
Transmission: A4, T5, T5, A4, A4, T56, TR6060
lucky for me i know more than enough about cars and removed the correct part. I've cured my allighnemt problem with a hammer and the correct socket, i lifted the car and loosened the strut cap and pulled to the point where the rim was back where is belonged. somehow the cap had shifted over a few inches causing the wheel to lean in really bad. drives straight now.
thanks
thanks
I took my front sway bar off once and noticed a huge difference but i also have the 36mm bar with poly bushings. I would get a professional alignment of a rack it will drive much better and now wear out your tires.
Last edited by Spdfrk1990; Jan 1, 2005 at 12:24 AM.
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