1: I'm wondering what you guys think of removing sway bars for drag racing? Removal of the front should help with front end lift and rear wheel plant, but I don't see what good removal of the rear would do.

2: Are there any adjustable drag shocks that are still capable of high speed handling in the corners at their max stiffness setting?

3: What is the benefit of relocated trailing arms? I have aftermarket units already and I don't have any wheel hop or fishtailing on takeoff or when I shift (unless I intentionally induce it). However, wheel spin is a serious issue (no slicks on car)

This car is a daily driver and I don't want to gut it or ruin it for normal driving, but some minor "day of the race" stuff is ok.

 

Remove the front leave the back for the track .. I run a WS6 bar on the rear at the strip only .. I also run a air bag on the right rear for the strip helps keep car level on the launch

Yes, there are some that might get close to what you want ..
I don't have a link handy for that stuff

The relocation of the bars change the Instant center of your car and also help with traction (esp if you ar lowered) .. it doesn't hurt driving it daily

 

1, remove front, do not remove rear, the bigger the better

2, i had some 70/30 competition engineering shocks and v6 springs on the back of my car, had alot of oversteer/very unstable going fast. that was on the soft setting though, only bad pushing the car

3, the main reason people relocate them is to cure geometry problems caused by lowering the car. sounds like you just need some good tires

edit: darn you tony!

 

Daumn !!!! we are on the same page aren't we

 

Can't add much more.

Front sway bar is dead weight. Rear sway bar helps keep both tires planted. When you launch, because of how the diff wants to rotate under torque, the right rear wheel wants to lift off the ground while the left rear wants to plant very hard. A rear sway bar can limit how much the right rear will lift. An air bag in the right rear helps even more.

There are no "drag shocks" that are also good on the street. The 70/30's are about your best choice for street/strip shocks but I don't think any like that are adjustable.

When I still used the torque arm suspension, I had LCA relocation brackets with the rear of the arms dropped lower than the front. After a season, you could start to see the tranny tunnel and floor on the passenger rear side start to buckle from all the forces I was putting through the LCA. I run ladder bars not so the floor doesn't buckle any more. Basically like mentioned above, it's a suspension geometry thing just like getting an adjustable torque arm to change the pinion angle. What works good on one car may not be what your car likes. They're just tuning aids.

Wheel spin problems need to be addressed before thinking of any suspension changes. Spending money on good suspension parts won't help anything if you can't get the power to the ground.

 

Thanks Guys!!!

The aftermarket trailing arms on my car eliminated the sideways movement at the track when shifting gears. The polyeurethane torque arm and transmission mounts seemed to help as well.

I always felt the rear sway bar would help as all of you seem to do. The front sway bar is not only dead weight, it reduces the weight transfer effect and limits the rise of the front end, thereby compounding the loss of weight transfer. I have mine adjusted pretty tight to help handling which only makes it worse

I definitely need slicks!!!! I am having to go half throttle off the line and then nail it. 2.0 0-60's are the best I can get. The Dunlop's I have (SP Sport 8000) are pretty soft and I have a good posi unit, they just aren't enough. The Be Cool radiator I installed a few years ago added weight right on the nose and that has hurt my takoff as well.

I need to replace my left rear sprig as it is sagging in comparison to the right rear, that would compound the right rear lifting albeit I have no wheelhop whatsoever. I would prefer to keep the stock IROC-Z ride height as that is lower than a standard Z28 of the same year (85). the car has "settled" over the last eleven years I have owned it so it is even lower as it is. Sure handles/looks good though......

 

1: the front bar causes less weight transfer since the car has to pick the whole front end up... unbolt it at the track... at the very LEAST, undo one endlink. leave the rear on.. it keeps the car level on launch.

2: yes. QA1 makes some... same as 4thgen shocks. goes from very soft to very firm, in a linear fashion.....

3: see here: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...on+%2Bbrackets

 

Thanks!!!!! My car has settled but it looks like the angle is straight. I'll put a level on it to check.

I'll also check out the struts as I'm not happy with the ride on my current ones (KYB Gr2). I loved my Monroe Formula GP's but the right front went bad and they don't make them anymore. The ride and handling were as nice as the Koni's I had on my last Camaro for half the price.... Don't know anything about any other Monroe shocks for Camaro's.

I can already see I'm going to have to invest in a set of coveralls for the track. Since my last knee surgery (both been done now) I can't be on my knees over about two-three minutes, and then only with knee pads. I already have to uncap my cutout, so that along with undoing the sway bar (and hopefully bolting on some slicks someday) is going to be a major pain in the knee. With the coveralls, I can lay on the ground and do the sway bar and cutout.... that way I can pull off the coveralls and keep the interior clean!!!