hey guys i got a dumb ?what happens when u lower ur car and u dont put relocation brac or adj pan bar?

 

*** end sits to the drivers side and you get wheel hop problems.

 

i didnt understand *** sits to driver side?but wheel hop problem i can fix by buying reloc b's right?

 

Yes. And what he means by *** sits to dhe driver side... well, is exactly that. Just imagine ths suspension geometry in the rear. What happens if the panhard rod is too long? It forces the rear of the car to shift sideways over the rear axle. Car wont drive straight. The driver side wheel will appear to be pushed in, while the passenger side rear wheel will appear pushed out.

 

View your rear end like a triangle with the panhard rod being the hypotenous (long side). As your vehicle is lowered the height changes and thus changes the angle of your panhard rod. IThat angle changed pushes it out to one side. If you took a yard stick and walked through a doorway with it you have to have it at an angle to get it through. Now If you change that angle at which you are holding it, it becomes to wide to fit through the door. Make sence.

An adjustable panhard rod will place the rear end in the center of the vehicle. When adjusted it will be shorter in length than the stocker.

In addition to this is the change in angle to your lower control arms. You make them more parallel with the road when you lower your car and in turn less downward force is applied to the axle. Adding relocation brackets drops the mouting point so that the LCA's are returned to their origonly installed angle. Without them you will suffer wheel hop and the LCA's won't be doing their job.

 

now i understand it perfect.i will be buying both of the parts some time in april.along with some bushings.

 

Where did you guys measure from to determine the rear of the car was centered? I did mine off the outer fender but I dunno if thats the right way or not.

 

You can go off the fender but it is not the most accurate way. Most shops will figure out it based on your front wheel allignment. When I adjusted mine I went off the fender as well. I wanted mine to be centered to the naked eye and I didn't mind if the rear was a fraction off to one side. You will never notice that small of a difference.

 

cool my buddy has an aligment shop so i'll ask him if he could check it out

 

Hypotenuse… bla bla bla…

Yea… great. How about actually doing the math. Lets figure that the panahrd rod is 45” (don’t know exactly it’s too late for me to run to the garage and measure one but it is somewhere in that range). Lower the car 1” and you get a .01” difference in length. Huh… does anyone think that they could see their axle moved over a HUNDREDTH of an inch?

As far as wheel hop… goes… I’ve never seen a 3rd or 4th gen rear suspension at any ride height that had wheel hop in the forward direction without something broken, worn out or loose in the suspension. FWIW, I currently own 3 lowered f-bodies none of which have relocation brackets (well, the WS6 does but the LCA’s are in the stock holes) and none of them have any wheel hop (and I’ve run as fast as 1.7 60’s on radials with them)

 

On a surface prepped track you shouldn't see much wheelhop. However, on the road you can get plenty. My puny LO3 had serious wheel hop problems after a 2" drop and my buds 02 SS was just terrible with only a 1" drop. The brackets made everything go back to normal on both our cars.

Every 2" of drop will shift the rear approx 1/2 to 5/8 inch. The less you drop the less the shift and with a one inch drop there isn't much difference like you said. I agree with you that a 1" drop isn't that big of a deal. Thats why we tell a lot of guys who go with the pro kit that they can get away without any other parts. I ran the stock panhard rod for one day and my rear left tire was practially outside the fender with a 1" recess on the right side.