When I did my install I used a chain to hold the spring in place so I could un-seat it without having to worry about it flying at me. I didnt feel like using one of those compressors either.

The K-member has a hole right by the spring pocket, only viewable from under the car. Loop a chain through the hole and around a single coil of the spring. Here's a picture of what it looks like when you're laying under the car looking up (in the picture, engine up, control arm down):



Then you can use the floorjack to lower the control arm, and with the spring chained, use a hammer to tap it out (should tap at lowest coil and have a rag around the coil, hammer used in the picture just for show)



The spring will pop out and nobody gets hurt:



Only junk thing, you do have to use a compressor to reinstall stock height springs, no tricks there. To seperate the spindle to lower control arm joint, as well as the spindle to tie rod joint you can use a pickle fork as mentioned earlier. This is how I always do it and I've found it to be easiest for me (there are other ways to do it). They make two seperate forks, one for the spindle to lower control arm joint the other for the spindle to tie rod joint. That second one for the spindle to tie rod joint can also be used for the centerlink to tie rod joints. Here's a pic of the pickle fork for the spindle to lower control arm joint:



Mark you could probably use this method with the assembly off the car (put em on the ground and hammer down)

 

I ended up renting two different pickle forks from AutoZone. A couple of wacks from the old hammer and off they came. It's amazing how simple things are sometimes when you have the correct tools to do the job. Everything is now apart. Tomorrow I start putting it back together. Strut mount are in and the steering linkage is assembled but not installed yet...

 

Went to AutoZone and rented some pickle forks. One for the centerlink and one for the ball joint. Worked great, just feels a little strange pounding on the car like that. My neighbors probably thought I finally lost it and was beating the crap out of my car...

 

That was with them off the car? I usually avoid pickelforks since they often result in as many problems as they solve, or at least torn BJ boots…

 

Yes the A-arms were already off the car. The pickle forks shredded the boots. I used them because I have new ball joints already mounted on the new A-arms. I have the Chilton's repair manual and it mentions a couple of tools in it:

J-24319-01
J-5504
J-6632
gear puller

In my case, all I needed to do was seperate the centerlink and get the steering knuckles off. The pickle forks worked great.

 

Before Suspension rebuild...

 

After suspension rebuild...

 

Other side...

 

you need to whack about half a coil off the rear

 

She sits really low in the front. So low I couldn't get the floor jack out from underneath the car. She is in dyer need of an alignment, it is so bad that I can't even enjoy a test ride (besides the one I took around the block ). The alignment is so bad that my steering wheel is crooked...

Lessons learned:

1. Rent Spring Compressors
2. Rent Pickle Forks
3. Grease Gun must have a flexible head
4. Must have a 7mm allen wrench (top of the Bilstein strut)
5. Must have deep sockets (metric and standard)
6. Must have a torque wrench
7. Flat end of the coil spring goes up (ha ha don't ask)
8. Chevrolet dealers do not have parts for 1989 IROC's in stock and readily available

Job is complete, on to the next project.

PS: Thank you Steve Spohn for your very fast response and your assistance. It worked just like you advised...

 

glad to see that you got it done. When the car gets aligned be sure to give your thoughts on how it rides.

 

Thanks people i read the whole thread today. I want to do my suspension but i dont know what to do. The car has always pulled to the right (even if alined) and i want to lower it but scared it will rip my front clip off. Well right now i am just goning to get an adj. panhard bar, control arms, wonder bar, shocks, adj. touque arm, and sway bars. But i really need to know what to do to the front end, do i need a rebuilt kit? If so what is the best bang for your buck kit, and anyone have any suggestions. Oh yeah i love ur Iroc, L98. Here is mine......

 

Okay i read this post several times. did your car come from the factory with 1LE stuff or was it put on as aftermarket?

 

It came from the dealer as a nicely equipped 1989 IROC. The gentleman, who bought it, took it back to the dealer and had the 1LE suspension and brakes installed.

 

Thanks. You have a very nice looking car. I didn't necessarily want a lowered car, I just wanted something that was going to feel new and handle better. I'm guessing the car's suspension was almost 15 years old so it was pretty worn. The old suspension parts were in pretty good condition due to the car only having 72,000 miles on it. The car isn't a daily driver, it is more of a hobby or project for me. It doesn't see rain or snow so it sits most of the week waiting for that Saturday or Sunday drive. Looks like you have a nice project starting, I just went ahead and did it all, using my tax return money. I did the rear first and then tackled the front. It was easier than I thought it would be, I just still need to get that alignment done...

 

I had it aligned by Goodyear this last Wednesday. Wow! It feels like driving a new car. Those front springs are really tight. I used to just cringe when hitting a bad spot in the road, now it handles the bumps better than my SUV. Brought it home, washed it and parked it in the garage. Now trying to decide what to do next...

Options:
1. Brakes (too much pedal, very sloppy feeling)
2. Cooling system (car runs too hot, need temp down to 185)
3. Transmission (slipping sometimes when in 4th)
3. Rearend (starting to get a little noisy back there)
4. Interior (would like to replace my seats and carpet)
5. Heater core (currently no heater, core is disconnected)

 

That sounds like my car, running hot, trans is broke, rear end is weak.

 

Any chance you remember what the size of those front strut bolts are? I went out and bought 15/16" and 1" sockets for my ratchet only to find out that all the body nuts and bolts are metric.

I'll probably end up having to buy a 1/2" drive ratchet, too. Seems like sometimes more of the work comes from trying to find the right tools then actually tearing down and installing the parts themselves.

 

I know exactly what you mean. I made many trips to Autozone, Advanced Auto Pars, Sears and Home Depot. Sorry nate86, I can't remember exactly I know they are metric, I think 18 or 19 mm...

 

I think that the strut bolts were 24mm
24mm=15/16
22mm=7/8
19mm=3/4
These sizes are very close. It will be useful to buy 1/2" set from sears for the metric sizes.

"Options:
1. Brakes (too much pedal, very sloppy feeling)
2. Cooling system (car runs too hot, need temp down to 185)
3. Transmission (slipping sometimes when in 4th)
3. Rearend (starting to get a little noisy back there)
4. Interior (would like to replace my seats and carpet)
5. Heater core (currently no heater, core is disconnected)"

1 you have the 1le brakes- bleed them enough to replace all of the fluid and you should be good. (I would make sure that you have the right prop valve for the 1le set up; it could have been overlooked by the previous owner.

2 These cars are set to operate around 220. If you do decide to tend to this replace the t stat and change the fan setting so it comes on earlier

3 install a t56 and forget about automatics

4 As long as you do not drag it often install a t2r diff.

5 who needs heat

I would either tend to the tranny or rear first. With a t56 you can run some silly gears in the rear and still get good mileage.

 

This thread is awesome and I'm learning a ton. Thanks guys!!! I have the same plan for my 88 Iroc. I'm gettin crazy though and doing the whole deal at once.

Motor: LT1, needs a cam and short block is complete. cc306 is the cam of choice.
Tranny: T56, bought and paid for.
Suspension: already got the spohn cross member and torque arm. Everything else will come as i get money. Tubular a-arms and K-member would be so sweet, but a roll bar and sub frame connectors would be too even though my paycheck doesn't agree.
Body: lots of sandblasting.

Here she is

 

a work in progress

 

mmmmmm polyurethane ..... im gonna bookmark this thread cause my next project is suspension. Im really worried about the springs being decompressed though. If i have a 91 Z28 with 80k on it, would stock ride height springs actually lift the vehicle?