I want to be able to take corners at a fairly fast speed, and I want the car to have overall good handling. This is what I am thinking about getting:

-UMI Tubular Control Arm
-UMI Tubular Panhard
(both are not adjustable)
-UMI Relocation Brackets (weld in)
-UMI Tubular Steering Brace "wonderbar"
-Tokico Illumina Shocks (5 way adjustable)
-Eibach Prokit Springs or Sportline (still trying to decide...need help)
-Energy Suspension Bushings (to finish off the rest of the suspension, along with Motor and Tranny Mounts)
-Iroc 36mm Front Sway Bar
-Iroc 24mm Rear Sway Bar
-Front Strut Bar
-Subframe Connectors
-16" or 17" Rims (don't know what kind or what size yet)
-Boxed torque arm?? if possible
How well do you think this will handle? Is it worth the money? What would you get or wouldn't get (at a reasonable price of course)? My car is a '89 RS...complete stock suspension. Help!

Will I really need a torque arm if it's lowered? Is this true?

Thanks for your help, alli89

 

ttt

 

alright sorry....but what does ttt stand for

 

ttt = to the top

I have the SFC and Wonderbar on sale currently under the Group Purchase category. Check the condition of your front suspension components while you're at it (end links, center link, drag link, frnt LCA bushings, ball joints and upper strut bearings). I prefer Eibach Pro Kit. You'll bottom out a lot more on the front stops with Sportline. Do a search, the springs and suspension have been covered in detail numerous times.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

LOL i don't know but i've seen people do it when they don't get feedback

 

TTT

 

nobody can help??

 

I was always wondering what TTT was myself. Thanks Lon!!

It is also interesting that no one said, "This suspension sucks!!" yet. You didn't even ask for constructive criticism, just said critisize my suspension.

I also found that you get better responses when you ask one direct question, rather than posting a whole paragraph. That way when people respond, they don't focus on one thing which is not even your main concern (or don't have enough patience to read the whole thing, comprehend and respond at all)

I never heard of boxed torque arm, but that doesn't mean they don't make them. I haven't dealt with UMI either, so can't help you there.

I would go with everything adjustable (LCA's, Pan hard bar, torque arm). It is not that much more and you can correct for lowering and/or factory tolerances just by turning a nut. Very convenient.

torque arm may need to be adjustable because when you lower the car, you will change the pinion angle a little, but its spec is 1* for street, so it doesn't take a lot of suspension mods to change this angle.

Rims, just so you know.... Lighter rims will give you better handling because of higher sprung:unsprung weight ratio. Also make sure you buy good tires, don't go the cheapest. Tire is the only thing that makes the car go where you want it to go.

16" rims may not fit some of the brake conversions if you ever decide to do one in the future.

 

Buy adjustable parts- you'll thank me later as you learn your suspension more and how the adjustments can fine tune or correct settings.. You alignment guys will thank you also.

Go with the Prokit on your budget, the sprotlines will set you too low and you'll need more parts and stiffer shock/struts to run them properly for good cornering and to prevent the car from walking about in the lane.

Save your money on relocation brackets, you will NOT need them with the Prokit. You want to handle? then you had better add new strut mount bushings- I would highly suggest ones with solid mounted bearings to eliminate upper strut geometry movement-THEN add a STB.

Spohn adjustable compared what I saw on UMI's site a while back are much better design and worth the extra $30 or so.
I run poly/spherical combo units for full time street use.