Gettting ready to install a BMR TA next week. I remember when I had the trans out to do the clutch that even with the axle dropped some - maybe not all the way, can't rmember, - the TA still wanted to rotate upward from spring pressure.

It is necessary to unload the springs all the way, or can I just drop the axle so it's hanging by the shocks (shocks fully extended)? Basically, want to know if I have to let the shocks loose or not and completly unload the springs to keep the axle from rotating. (should have said that first.....)

K

 

I had fun swapping the torque arm bushing the other day on my car. I wasn't replacing the torque arm though. I'd assume you could do it just by dropping the rear enough to take pressure off the springs (hang by shocks).

 

Let it hang all the way, then stick a jack under the pumpkin and pump it up once. Sure it will rotate up, but you can pull down on it and rotate it back properly.

The "proper" way is to unhook the shocks and remove the springs, but with lowering springs (which I assume everybody has over a decade later), it's not necessary. I wouldn't bother with stock height springs either. You can definitely muscle it.

 

I had no trouble doing anything with just the rear hanging. I put jackstands under the "frame" and let it hang.

 

Thanks guys - I don't think I had it down all the way before and maybe that is why it wanted to roll upwards. I only worried about what would happen once I disconnected the TA from the pumpkin - with out the leverage of the long TA, I thought it might filp up and spit the springs out the back! I guess if it did, well then I'd have to drop the shocks I guess, now wouldn't I......

Sorry to say, mine's still ridin on the original IROC springs - but with only 75k miles, I guess they probably have some life left in them. My car was really pampered all it's life before I got it, so I doubt the springs have been abused at all.

 

No, that's why you put a jack under the pumpkin and pump it up a bit. It'll rotate from the pressure.

 

When I removed and reinstalled the stock torque arm I just let the rearend hang by the shocks. Jacking the rearend up a bit is a good idea, it will rotate it and make it easier. Dont forget to put a piece of wood between the torque arm and the chassis when you remove the bolts on the tranny side, its gonna fly up towards the trans tunnel and might dent it if there's no wood (or something) to take the hit.

 

One more thing, I can confirm the springs wont shoot out the back if the rearend is hanging by the shocks with no torque arm attached. hehehe! I saw how the bottoms of the springs were sitting and I had the same thought. But it sat like that for days and the springs stayed put (this is OEM 89 RS springs and dead shocks).

 

Want to make sure you not stretchin the t brake hose i cant remember if the shocks stop that or not.