Eibach sport lines flat side up or down? and do i need to keep the small rubber ring off the other springs

 

this is flat side


Does the round side or flat side go here?


The boot

 

Anyone?? i trying o get done in the next 2 hrs its geting hot outside!

 

Flat side goes up. Be sure and index the spring. You should cover one of the drain holes in the lower control arm (the second one to the left of the pic of your finger). Reuse the rubber insolator (tape it to the spring). Good Luck.

 

Flat side up, bottom end of spring needs to be between twon drain holes in a-arm:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarami...ad.jpg&.src=ph

Ed

 

Cool thanks I did it right then but it raised my car a good 1inc at the wheel wells is this because the springs are brand new and never had any weight on them? They went in really easy no fighting with them so I assume they are in right as far as I can see. And when I re-bolted everything up things screwed in further then they were like on the strut tower the bolt stick up a little further and when I bolted down the sway bar there is a little more screw sticking up at the top about 1 inch more both on the strut and sway bar.

Edit - The front end is really bouncy like they have not settled yet. Like when you change your brakes and lower the car and drive it bouncy.

 

The sway bar end links get tightened until the nut stops. The bolt just runs out of thread, and that's how far you go. The strut is the same way. Tighten it down until it stops. Sounds like somethings were loose. What kind of struts? Old or new? Might be worn out if it's really bouncy.

 

I went out no to long ago the bounciness has gone away but it still sits high I will remove them again to try and seat them better I think I don’t have them in the perches right. I think I covered both of the drain holes.

 

Found that the spring was not in the top perch at all man what a difference!

Edit - Wish me luck on the rear. I have heared its easy but nothings easy for me.

 

The rear is about as easy as it gets. Let rear sit at full droop, remove old spring, reinstall new one, and done. No spring compressor, no nothing. Worst case is you might have to unbolt the bottom of the shock from the rear (depends on how worn out your springs are).

 

I can’t get the rear springs in I had to use a pry bar to get them out. I can get the springs in perfect without the isolator. I letting the rear sit at full droop the shocks are unbolted from the bottom so is the sway bar ends. Any suggestion on what else needs to be unbolted? I moved the jack completely out from under the rear it wont drop any further should it go al the way to the ground?? Cause it doesn’t.

 

Do you have the old heavy metal isolators that are about 3/4" thick? Try using just some heater hose taped to the top of the spring, and see how low the car sits. It should not be that hard to force the springs in. I would watch the rubber brake line when lowering the rear so as not to stretch it. Can't think of what else would hold the rear? Maybe the panhard bar or control arm bushings are binding?

 

The panhard and LCAs are holding it up (LCAs swing down and to the front, panhard swings down and to the side... both together will only allow the rear to go down so far). Unbolt one or the other (panhard would probably be easier). Watch your brake line, too, and check that the panhard bar isn't bent before reinstalling.

 

Yea I have the old heavy isolator the one that weighs like 3lb ad is about 1" thick. What I did was tape it to the new spring and just take a pry bar and shove really hard and it went in. I just got the wheels back on. Now I have to take it to a shop and have a stud replaced. I broke one when I was unbolting the wheels.

 

Glad you got them in.

I guess different brands of springs are different free lengths. My old global west ones would fall out at full droop with the shocks bolted up. I actually made straps out of an old nylon tow strap that would limit the travel of the rear at full droop in case the car ever got airborn. If you are unhappy with the rear ride height, the new replacement insolators from GM are all rubber and a little shorter, or the heater hose on the top coil instead of the isolators can drop it almost an inch.

 

The new rear springs are little longer than my old worn ones but my car looks to be almost level with the road I think it looks great. The car fought me the whole way. First lost lock key found old stripped lock key. Got 1 wheel off then it stripped all the way went to an exhaust shop to have key fixed with some weld then I install the front springs wrong. Removed front springs again put them in right. Then when removing the rear wheels i snapped a stud in half. Then the new spring didn’t want to seat in the perch used a pry bar to get them seated. Now I have 3 lugs on 1 wheel in the rear.