Advice please
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Advice please
Im gonna be putting my car up on a lift to replace my Idler arm (sp?) while the car is in the air is there anything else i should look for, and or do?
Thanks
Brandon
Thanks
Brandon
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Car: 89 iroc z, near mint, white t-bar roof, worked motor and trans stock rims/tires
Engine: 5.7L rebuilt 40,000mil ago
Transmission: 4spd as 400, customr rebuild, larger accumulators, custom shift kit, kevlar belts
I just did the same thing. I went and bought an idler arm because I knew it was bad, could feel the wheel pulling away.
Before you go and buy one part, put it on a lift. Check the whole thing. I wound up replacing the whole front line, I found play in the upper and lower ball joints, the center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, and the pitman arm as well. I started at 35 bucks and finished at 450. But, are you going to keep it?? I have an 89 Iroc Z w/t-tops, great motor and tranny, new paint etc.
I still need shocks and struts, rotors etc,
Be prepared that when you have the car in the air you'll find more play than you think. That idler arm will wear right out if the rest of the front end wobbles. Good Luck
Before you go and buy one part, put it on a lift. Check the whole thing. I wound up replacing the whole front line, I found play in the upper and lower ball joints, the center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, and the pitman arm as well. I started at 35 bucks and finished at 450. But, are you going to keep it?? I have an 89 Iroc Z w/t-tops, great motor and tranny, new paint etc.
I still need shocks and struts, rotors etc,
Be prepared that when you have the car in the air you'll find more play than you think. That idler arm will wear right out if the rest of the front end wobbles. Good Luck
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
It was on a lift this morning, (had new tires put on) the guy went to go align it and couldn't because the idler arm was shot, ill check those things, and if all looks good, ill replace that part and get it alinged. and yes im gonna be keeping this car for a long, long time, its my daily now, and i really need it in tip top shape, (travling a good 30miles a day starting August)
Thanks again.
Brandon
Thanks again.
Brandon
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Car: 89 iroc z, near mint, white t-bar roof, worked motor and trans stock rims/tires
Engine: 5.7L rebuilt 40,000mil ago
Transmission: 4spd as 400, customr rebuild, larger accumulators, custom shift kit, kevlar belts
The avg machanic will fix what is really broken to get it by. I'm doing 30 mi/day, but only use the camaro sometimes, have a jeep too. I wanted it to be right so I got under the car and hunted for loose fits.
Do yourself a favor and tell the guy, to fix it like it was his.
If you do it right, it'll last you 10 years. if you do it piecemeal, it'll never stop nickel and diming you.
My kid had his car done like that. He changed idler arm, 1 ball joint and tie rod ends. It lasted 2 - 3 months and he wore out 2 brand new tires. We wound up changing the rest today and buying 2 new tires after about 3 months. He's 19 and was looking for the cheap fix, I'm 46 want it done right. I paid more at first, but less than his 2 trips. I could have done it all myself but I have a friend who owns a shop. He worked on it in his spare time for me. He works cheap. I'm too old to hammer ball joints, did that in my 20's.
Sounds like you have a nice car. Don't make the mistake my kid made. He's got more money in his front end than me by a couple hundred.
Do yourself a favor and tell the guy, to fix it like it was his.
If you do it right, it'll last you 10 years. if you do it piecemeal, it'll never stop nickel and diming you.
My kid had his car done like that. He changed idler arm, 1 ball joint and tie rod ends. It lasted 2 - 3 months and he wore out 2 brand new tires. We wound up changing the rest today and buying 2 new tires after about 3 months. He's 19 and was looking for the cheap fix, I'm 46 want it done right. I paid more at first, but less than his 2 trips. I could have done it all myself but I have a friend who owns a shop. He worked on it in his spare time for me. He works cheap. I'm too old to hammer ball joints, did that in my 20's.
Sounds like you have a nice car. Don't make the mistake my kid made. He's got more money in his front end than me by a couple hundred.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,539
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu, HI
Car: 2011 SS/RS
Engine: LS3
Transmission: Tremic6060
Axle/Gears: good enough
Well the mechanic that was working on my car, took me out while it was on the lift and showed me, all i saw that was loose was the Idler arm, so it would be my luck that something else wears out lol
well thanks for all the advice, if theres anymore out there, i would love to hear it!
well thanks for all the advice, if theres anymore out there, i would love to hear it!
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
While your doing the Idler replace at least the centerlink as well, if you can the inner and outer tie rods too (if it needs them, if it has around 100k miles if definitely does). Makes your steering tighter and more responsive.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Originally posted by markmontg
I just did the same thing. I went and bought an idler arm because I knew it was bad, could feel the wheel pulling away.
Before you go and buy one part, put it on a lift. Check the whole thing. I wound up replacing the whole front line, I found play in the upper and lower ball joints, the center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, and the pitman arm as well. I started at 35 bucks and finished at 450. But, are you going to keep it?? I have an 89 Iroc Z w/t-tops, great motor and tranny, new paint etc.
I still need shocks and struts, rotors etc,
Be prepared that when you have the car in the air you'll find more play than you think. That idler arm will wear right out if the rest of the front end wobbles. Good Luck
I just did the same thing. I went and bought an idler arm because I knew it was bad, could feel the wheel pulling away.
Before you go and buy one part, put it on a lift. Check the whole thing. I wound up replacing the whole front line, I found play in the upper and lower ball joints, the center link, inner and outer tie rod ends, and the pitman arm as well. I started at 35 bucks and finished at 450. But, are you going to keep it?? I have an 89 Iroc Z w/t-tops, great motor and tranny, new paint etc.
I still need shocks and struts, rotors etc,
Be prepared that when you have the car in the air you'll find more play than you think. That idler arm will wear right out if the rest of the front end wobbles. Good Luck
How did you replace the Upper ball joints?
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Supreme Member
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,085
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Originally posted by 92MaroRS
How did you replace the Upper ball joints?
How did you replace the Upper ball joints?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Car: 89 iroc z, near mint, white t-bar roof, worked motor and trans stock rims/tires
Engine: 5.7L rebuilt 40,000mil ago
Transmission: 4spd as 400, customr rebuild, larger accumulators, custom shift kit, kevlar belts
add on
meant bushings on control arm, and ball joints. sorry beer hurts typing skills.
Anybody recommend a good shock/strut for these. Can't seem to find original oem's. 1989 iroc 5.7L
Anybody recommend a good shock/strut for these. Can't seem to find original oem's. 1989 iroc 5.7L
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Re: add on
Originally posted by markmontg
meant bushings on control arm, and ball joints. sorry beer hurts typing skills.
Anybody recommend a good shock/strut for these. Can't seem to find original oem's. 1989 iroc 5.7L
meant bushings on control arm, and ball joints. sorry beer hurts typing skills.
Anybody recommend a good shock/strut for these. Can't seem to find original oem's. 1989 iroc 5.7L
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