What the hell is wrong with my suspension?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
What the hell is wrong with my suspension?
THIS DOES NOT LOOK SAFE.
I jacked up the car and had to fix my exhaust. I noticed this when I bumped the wheel... the wheel moves significantly at the joint. I have not tried to see if the other side does the same, but I am kinda worried.
http://www.filecabi.net/u.php?file=1123271051.avi
I jacked up the car and had to fix my exhaust. I noticed this when I bumped the wheel... the wheel moves significantly at the joint. I have not tried to see if the other side does the same, but I am kinda worried.
http://www.filecabi.net/u.php?file=1123271051.avi
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
if that link didnt work there's
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=ca0023
http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=ca0023
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 287
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1988 Monte SS
Engine: ZZ4-cammed TPI 355
Transmission: World-Class T5
Yikes! Time for some new tierods, before that thing totally lets go and you crash the car! With the way that stuff looks under there, I'd personally replace it all. Inner/outer tie rods, sleeves, center link, and idler arm. Get Moog Problem Solver parts if you can; they're not terribly expensive and hold up very well.
IMO, don't drive that car until you get it fixed.
IMO, don't drive that car until you get it fixed.
It looks like your tierod isn't tightened. For a temporary fix, I'd get the top nut down as far as possible. The inner tie-rod looks bent, also... hit a curb or anything with that wheel? Go get yourself some new inner and outer tie-rods and sleeves. Center-link optional (and considerably more work).
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by TPI Monte SS
IMO, don't drive that car until you get it fixed.
IMO, don't drive that car until you get it fixed.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by kretos
i'd have to agree with him, don't drive it unless you have to
i'd have to agree with him, don't drive it unless you have to
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Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 287
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1988 Monte SS
Engine: ZZ4-cammed TPI 355
Transmission: World-Class T5
Originally posted by Token
I have to. I drive 100 miles per day. It's my only car.
I have to. I drive 100 miles per day. It's my only car.
THIS DOES NOT LOOK SAFE
Last edited by TPI Monte SS; Aug 6, 2005 at 09:36 AM.
Token, any car parts store will have what you need. Get the inner and outer tie rods and the sleeve... this way you can just hammer out all the parts at once from your car, put together the new parts to the same length, and install. It really is that easy. Pick up a grease gun from Pep Boys or whatever you have, too.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: tampa florida
Car: 91 camaro
Engine: 305TBI
Transmission: 5 speed
Have to Agree that looks pretty bad. There isn't surpose to be that kind of play. Fixt ASAP!
Picture this... You're driving about 25mi into your drive for the day and you come to a curve or turn in the road. You go to make the turn and SUDDENLY your car isn't going where you want it to. Now picture what all will be in you way when you are Jamming on your brakes to help you stop the car. Chances are not a good image. Then weigh out how soon it needs attending to.
Good luck with your fix!
Picture this... You're driving about 25mi into your drive for the day and you come to a curve or turn in the road. You go to make the turn and SUDDENLY your car isn't going where you want it to. Now picture what all will be in you way when you are Jamming on your brakes to help you stop the car. Chances are not a good image. Then weigh out how soon it needs attending to.
Good luck with your fix!
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 575
Likes: 1
From: Smithfield, NC
Car: 1987 Camaro SC
Engine: 2.8L MPFI (rebuilt)
Transmission: 700R4 swapped to T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 open
Originally posted by CaysE
It looks like your tierod isn't tightened. For a temporary fix, I'd get the top nut down as far as possible. The inner tie-rod looks bent, also... hit a curb or anything with that wheel? Go get yourself some new inner and outer tie-rods and sleeves. Center-link optional (and considerably more work).
It looks like your tierod isn't tightened. For a temporary fix, I'd get the top nut down as far as possible. The inner tie-rod looks bent, also... hit a curb or anything with that wheel? Go get yourself some new inner and outer tie-rods and sleeves. Center-link optional (and considerably more work).
Did you just get tires? Looks new. I'm suprised it isn't showing signs of wear yet. At 100 miles a day you def. need to get that fixed asap.
I just finished (2 hours ago) replacing my tie rod ends, got solid sleeves too, idler arm (this is what was totaly worn out on mine), a-arm bushings and ball joints. Front tires and alignment on Wed. (I have another car to drive until then)
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
everyone is telling me different parts that I need or shoudl replace, but I only want to replace the critical parts, nothing more just to get this car to be safe again... what do I need?
thanks guys
thanks guys
Also make sure the bore in the knuckle is completely round. If the hole is ovaled at all, you will need to replace the spindle.
Any steering components that are bent or have any play MUST be replaced. There is no acceptable amount of play. Keep in mind that the tie rods are supposed to pivot. If you grab it and pull up and down and you can feel the slightest amount of play, replace it. Even if it's minimal, the wear is going to increase exponentially because of the play.
While you have the front tires off the ground, stick a pry bar under the tires and pry up and down. If you have any play in the ball joints, replace them too. Might as well check the wheel bearings and all the bushings while your there also.
EDIT: check the centerlink and the idler arm the same way as the tie rod ends. If you pull up and down and there is play, replace.
By doing these simple tests, you will know exactly what needs to be replaced and what you can keep. The only way to tell is with a good inspection of what you have.
Any steering components that are bent or have any play MUST be replaced. There is no acceptable amount of play. Keep in mind that the tie rods are supposed to pivot. If you grab it and pull up and down and you can feel the slightest amount of play, replace it. Even if it's minimal, the wear is going to increase exponentially because of the play.
While you have the front tires off the ground, stick a pry bar under the tires and pry up and down. If you have any play in the ball joints, replace them too. Might as well check the wheel bearings and all the bushings while your there also.
EDIT: check the centerlink and the idler arm the same way as the tie rod ends. If you pull up and down and there is play, replace.
By doing these simple tests, you will know exactly what needs to be replaced and what you can keep. The only way to tell is with a good inspection of what you have.
Last edited by onebinky; Aug 8, 2005 at 09:20 PM.
Dude, tighten the nut on top of the outer tie rod end, it looks like it's just loose.
Refer to here for part reference: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=314068
Refer to here for part reference: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=314068
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 341
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From: Kingston, NH
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
Sorry, no simple fix here. That outer tie rod is smoked. You need to replace it ASAP. No amount of tightening is going to fix that.
A tie rod would not move like that if it was smoked... it would have fallen out. Unless the threads are bent in some way, he could likely tighten it enough to get his car to AutoZone to pick up a new one.
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 341
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From: Kingston, NH
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
Originally posted by CaysE
A tie rod would not move like that if it was smoked... it would have fallen out. Unless the threads are bent in some way, he could likely tighten it enough to get his car to AutoZone to pick up a new one.
A tie rod would not move like that if it was smoked... it would have fallen out. Unless the threads are bent in some way, he could likely tighten it enough to get his car to AutoZone to pick up a new one.
Personally, I would not drive that car to go get the parts. Catch a ride to the store from someone else. If driving it is unavoidable, try not to hit any potholes.
Last edited by ChevyGuy87; Aug 9, 2005 at 11:50 AM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
yay at me driving it 400+ miles since this thread was started.
I still don't know the exact parts I need
not like I can afford them, anyway.
I have no money. None at all.
I am trying to afford rent and I've only got 1/3 of it.
I still don't know the exact parts I need
not like I can afford them, anyway.
I have no money. None at all.
I am trying to afford rent and I've only got 1/3 of it.
That is a death wish, plain and simple. If you can't afford the car, sell it and buy something cheaper that won't put others at risk. If that tie rod lets go, it's a guaranteed complete loss of control.
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 287
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1988 Monte SS
Engine: ZZ4-cammed TPI 355
Transmission: World-Class T5
Originally posted by Token
yay at me driving it 400+ miles since this thread was started.
I still don't know the exact parts I need
not like I can afford them, anyway.
I have no money. None at all.
I am trying to afford rent and I've only got 1/3 of it.
yay at me driving it 400+ miles since this thread was started.
I still don't know the exact parts I need
not like I can afford them, anyway.
I have no money. None at all.
I am trying to afford rent and I've only got 1/3 of it.
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Posts: 4,345
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From: Brighton, CO
Car: '72 Chevy Nova
Engine: Solid roller 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 8.5" 10-bolt 3.73 Posi
please for the love of *** replace that thing.... Do like someone suggested above and pull up and down on it.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 2
From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
The part you need is an outer tie rod. I don't want this to come off the wrong way but if you can't afford a tie rod then a thirdgen is not for you because a lot of stuff is going to break on these cars that is a lot more expensive then a tie rod.
To be honest, I've driven my car like that for a while. The tie rod broke off as I was turning onto a highway. I couldn't steer the thing at all. I am currently on my 3rd life. 
Token, PM me your address, I'm sending you a tie rod. I'd much rather dump 25 bucks instead of seeing a thread about your car wrecked and people hurt and/or killed. You're threatening the lives of people around you, you know.
Refer to the Front Suspension 101 thread. It should give you a good idea of what you need to replace.

Token, PM me your address, I'm sending you a tie rod. I'd much rather dump 25 bucks instead of seeing a thread about your car wrecked and people hurt and/or killed. You're threatening the lives of people around you, you know.
Refer to the Front Suspension 101 thread. It should give you a good idea of what you need to replace.
Last edited by CaysE; Aug 16, 2005 at 11:25 AM.
Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 287
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1988 Monte SS
Engine: ZZ4-cammed TPI 355
Transmission: World-Class T5
Originally posted by CaysE
Token, PM me your address, I'm sending you a tie rod. I'd much rather dump 25 bucks instead of seeing a thread about your car wrecked and people hurt and/or killed. You're threatening the lives of people around you, you know.
Token, PM me your address, I'm sending you a tie rod. I'd much rather dump 25 bucks instead of seeing a thread about your car wrecked and people hurt and/or killed. You're threatening the lives of people around you, you know.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
OK, this thread is getting ridiculous.
Go to autozone’s site and look up pn VES2226R, it’s a tie rod end for a 3rd gen for $14.99. If you can’t do that you really have to reassess the rest of your life; if you’re working and can’t afford that you’re doing something wrong…
As far as installing it, when you’re done you’re going to have to get it aligned. If you had a clue then I would suggest a few ways that you could do it without paying someone to do it, but honestly, we’d be here the rest of our lives trying to explain enough of this for you to do a sufficiently good job.
And no, I’m not picking on you, but lets get realistic, you saving what will probably total $50-70 at the expense of the lives of EVERYONE that you pass on the street each day is asinine, and I don’t think that anyone is going to be at all sympathetic when this thing breaks.
Also, yes, stuff is going to wear out on the car, but at the same time, parts for these things are about as cheap as parts are going to get, and most parts are simple to find in the JY since the are the same standard parts that most RWD gm chassis used.
Go to autozone’s site and look up pn VES2226R, it’s a tie rod end for a 3rd gen for $14.99. If you can’t do that you really have to reassess the rest of your life; if you’re working and can’t afford that you’re doing something wrong…
As far as installing it, when you’re done you’re going to have to get it aligned. If you had a clue then I would suggest a few ways that you could do it without paying someone to do it, but honestly, we’d be here the rest of our lives trying to explain enough of this for you to do a sufficiently good job.
And no, I’m not picking on you, but lets get realistic, you saving what will probably total $50-70 at the expense of the lives of EVERYONE that you pass on the street each day is asinine, and I don’t think that anyone is going to be at all sympathetic when this thing breaks.
Also, yes, stuff is going to wear out on the car, but at the same time, parts for these things are about as cheap as parts are going to get, and most parts are simple to find in the JY since the are the same standard parts that most RWD gm chassis used.
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Posts: 1,154
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From: Milton Keynes, England
Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
how does that pass inspection? i dunno if its the same in the US, but here, the car fails at the very first sign of any movment at the tie rods or ball joints (long before it gets to that stage) - a fussy tester can fail it even if just the rubber boot is torn Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by philoldsmobile
ummmm, dont you have an annual safety check?
ummmm, dont you have an annual safety check?
Originally posted by Apeiron
That would be a violation of the constitutional right to needlessly endanger the lives of others and would put tens of thousands of accident injury lawyers out of business overnight.
That would be a violation of the constitutional right to needlessly endanger the lives of others and would put tens of thousands of accident injury lawyers out of business overnight.
Supreme Member

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,136
Likes: 2
From: Costal Alabama
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
Originally posted by urbanhunter44
most of the US doesn't do safety checks.
most of the US doesn't do safety checks.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
Likes: 93
From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
It really depends on the state… there appears to be 2 basic trains of thought. Some states have annual or biannual inspections that are not that bad, or some (like MD, where I live) only require a safety inspection when you first register the car, but it’s super **** retentive (for example, we can’t have a spot of rust on the fenders, anywhere, all the windows have to work…). There’s a few states out there that have little if any inspection also.
FWIW, that would fail any inspection.
FWIW, that would fail any inspection.
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
OK, so we haven't heard from Token in nearly a week.....
Mark.
Mark.
Originally posted by Difflock
OK, so we haven't heard from Token in nearly a week.....
Mark.
OK, so we haven't heard from Token in nearly a week.....
Mark.
Last edited by CaysE; Aug 16, 2005 at 08:06 AM.
Member
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Posts: 482
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From: Lancashire County, England, UK
Car: VIN=85 T/A, CAR=82/3 T/A gfx, go figure. She's a T/A anyway!
Engine: 5.0, Holley 600 cfm 4-barrel
Transmission: THM350 ??
Anyone fancy checking with local law enforcement in the Ann Arbor area if there's been a thridGen accident within a 100 mile radius?
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 749
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From: Acworth/Marietta, GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Pro 5.0 shifted T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73 posi
Hey as long as were donating parts here i think my car is dangerously slow. Anyone have some AFR 195s, and a Holley Stealth ram they want to send my way?
Just kidding just kidding, leave it to the Georgia boy to cross the line and make jokes at a serious situation....
But seriously, where is token? Please tell me there isnt another wrecked 3rd gen rotting in a junkyard somewhere
Just kidding just kidding, leave it to the Georgia boy to cross the line and make jokes at a serious situation....
But seriously, where is token? Please tell me there isnt another wrecked 3rd gen rotting in a junkyard somewhere
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From: Milan, MI
Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: A4
Originally posted by Difflock
Anyone fancy checking with local law enforcement in the Ann Arbor area if there's been a thridGen accident within a 100 mile radius?
Anyone fancy checking with local law enforcement in the Ann Arbor area if there's been a thridGen accident within a 100 mile radius?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
lol I'm here, I'm alive and my car is too. I just forgot I had this thread until today.
Sorry for the scare. I appreciate everyone's help and grattitude. I'm alright
Sorry for the scare. I appreciate everyone's help and grattitude. I'm alright
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by onebinky
So does that mean you fixed it?
So does that mean you fixed it?
it means that I can afford the tierod now.
oh and I drive <5 miles a day now, instead of 100+
all city streets, too
not trying to put it off any longer, just tryin' to take care of business





wned: would be more appropriate..