I'm about to purchase a 10pt rollcage for my 87 TA, and wanted to know if one was any better than the other (I can get CE locally, S&W will be truck freight). I'm running the GTA-style deluxe doorpanels and aftermarket buckets (probably Corbeau), with no rear seat. I'd prefer the one that would hug the interior the tightest so as not to be a obvious, since htis car will be street driven. Thanks!

Feel free to post pics of either setup, or any custom built cages...

 

I installed a chassis engineering 10 pt. cage. Here are some pics.

 

Alot of guys have great luck with the S&W products weather it be F bodies or Fox bodies, so it would be a safe investment.

I used a Jegster unit and was very happy with it.

Regardless, ALL will require cut and fit, no cage on the market will jsut fit together. They send out the tubes long so it give you options to make it work for your specific application.

 

Im trying to find a pic and pricing on various sw cages. Where can you find them online. I was at swracecars.com and couldnt find camaro cages.

 

http://www.swracecars.com/roll_bars.asp

 

You might call some local race car builders, and see what they would charge to build/design a cage to fit the class you plan to run.

 

Hey guys I have the sfc and rear suspension kit their stuff fits perfect and is built great the sfc follow the contours of the floorpan perfect just my 02 worth oh and I had bought some ce sfc and sent them back the day they came in (nice box tube bot would have had to beat the hell out of my floorpans or cut them)

 

Japanese third gen cage

how about that cage? pretty nice for a road race cage.

 

The key is to know what class you are going to race, and then BUILD THE CAGE TO SUIT THAT CLASS.

Each diffrent sactioning body is going to have diffrent requirments. Say for example the way the door bars mount, some may want nascar style, some may want an X with gussets, etc.

You will be rather upset if you just buy a cage, then after you spent all that money, go to race, and find out that you have to change a whole list of things to make the cage compliant.

 

My car isn't being built for any particular type of competition; it'll be raced occasionally at the strip, and do some track day events with my car club, but its going to be more of a pro touring type car. I just want it rigid enough to handle the power I'm going to put in it, and to provide some rollover protection. I'll look at some of the sanctioning bodies rulebooks for ideas, though, to make sure that all the harder stuff is in place in case I change my mind later. If this car were being built strictly for racing, I'd definitely get a professional to build a custom cage (Carter Chassis is only about 5 miles from me), but since one of my club members owes me some welding I'm going to have him do it. He can handle the install, but doesn't have a pipe bender to my knowledge.
BTW 92stealth, I like the way your cage is virtually hidden from the sideview...thats what I'm going for. I'd like a little tighter fitting main hoop, but I'm not running a back seat anyway so thats not too critical. Anyone have pics of the S&W cage for comparison?

 

I bought the same 8-point cage from Jegs at a local shop called Seco. I wanted to keep my back seats so I didn't use some of the bars.

 

No offense Jman, but trying to look at your bars, all you did was waste your money and time since the layout you have is doing nothing structural.

If anybody is going to go through all this to install or NEED a rollbar/cage, you should at least make the attempt to install it so it serves a purpose, otherwise spend that money and time on something worth while that will do something.

 

Actually, as soon as I put it in, I could feel the stiffness in the corness, and all the little rattles stopped. I was either going to buy this or sub-frame connectors at the time, and I'm still going to get some sub-frame connectors, but the bars helped tremendosly. It even helped drop my e.t.s. In my opinion, it was well worth the money.

 

DO NOT put anyone in that back seat, their heads will be way to close to the main hoop, it would be dangerous and down right reckless to put someone in the back seats.

 

i let people ride in my back seat all the time. this was an s&w 8 point kit that i modified.
Really though, dewey is correct in what he said about that being deadly. also, roll bar padding is required no matter what the use of the car is.

thanks

 

92stealthramz28 (or anyone else for that matter), do you have any pictures of your dash pad? I think that pretty much any true kit will require some modification to it. Just wanted to see what yours was.

 

That is a nice cage. It looks like the one SLP used in the Firehawks. That is the one I would buy also.

 

I will try to post a link here I like these guys personally . /web.inetba.com/autoweld/index2.ivnu I have used their stuff and friends have used their stuff battleship tuff.

 

Please post some pictures of the cage so we can see it. I especially want to know how it mounts around the dash area

 

there stuff looks good, and the price is not that bad for the base cage, but if you add all the options one would want for a daily driven 3rd gen, then that jacks the price up.

thanks

 

Sory no way of posting pics

 

Here are some pics on how I mounted my pillar bars. I notched the corners of the dash pad. I also, had to modify the bottom dash bracket that the fuse panel connects to.

 

Thanx for the picutres. Did they put it in for you?

 

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