I have an Eibach Pro Kit and Lakewood LCA's. Do I need/want LCA relocation brackets? What is their benefit?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

lowering your lca's give you better traction in take off, I think that's it but I'm not sure. I know they do that at least.

 

Well when you lower your car the suspension geometery gets all out of whack. Your rear control arms look like this: mount / rear instead of this: mount \ rear. (backslashes=control arm angle). The lower CA relocation bracket will realign the suspension the way it needs to be to give traction and handle like it should. Leaving how it is may induce lg amounts of wheel hop. also another item to purchase would be an adjustable panhard bar. You will need to shorten it to recenter the rear in the car. The stock one will push the rear over to one side (left) now that the car is lowered.

-Jim

 

Yep, exactly what he said.

When you lower a car the front end of the LCA will sit lower than the rear giving you a weird angle. This can cause axle hop and various other things. In the perfect world you would want the angle to be darn near 0*. The 3 mount holes let you zero the LCA back in and there staggered so the same control arm will fit in all three (no need for a longer or shorter one).

It was noticeable even on my OEM WS6 suspension, but I did SFCs, adjustable LCAs, and brackets all at the same time. I didn't really experiment with the different settings I just put it on the lowest hole and left it there. Actually was making my TPI grab right off the line on street. With the new upgrade I plan on trying to level it back out to see if I can get any improvements once the car is running again.


Actually I noticed one control arm was shorter than the other even on my non-lowered car too.

 

for a real increase in traction, using the relocation brackets to drop the axle end of the control arm down will shorten the instant center of the car which helps to plant the tires. If your just using street tires i would leave them flat like he said, but if your using a drag radial or slick, experiment and see what gives you the best 60' The torque arm also has a lot to do with this too, but that's another post...

 

Thanks alot. That is all very helpful.

Not to get off topic on my own thread, but my torque arm is still stock. Do I want to change that as well?

 

never hurts and there are 2 different styles. Your best bet is to go with an adjustable one so you can adjust your pinion angle for different tracks. The 2 main types are the full length, that most people make, or the shorter jegster torque arm. Both have their different advantages, and play roles in which way the car will launch. The longer ones tend to cause the front end to lift and squat the rear tires. The shorter tend to force the rear tires into the ground and lift rear of the car up. Both work effectively as long as your suspension is properly setup.

 

Thanks again!