!@#@ rear swaybar endlinks
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!@#@ rear swaybar endlinks
got an alignment a bit ago and they said i had a broken sway bar endlink. sure enough, drivers side endlink bottom is gone. so what do i do? i go out and buy the E.S. sway bar end link set. polyurethane and what not. well.. i figure ill do the pass side since its still "loaded" and the drivers side isnt. so i end up BENDING THE BOLT so now with a 13 wrench on the nut at the top (that has an extra 3 " of threaded length(WTF) i have to SWIVEL the ratchet and socket while unbolting it. finally it shears off. i didnt think it ever would.
i so i calmly wiggle the swaybar and it pops down and shoves the bolt head, washer, and the rubber piece off and i grab the next thing up the shaft. the bottom upper rubber piece, pull it off, and now here i am: a washer.
rusted to the damn bolt. i tried hammering it, wrenching it, no dice. i cant slide the shaft up through the frame until i get this damn washer off.
wtf can i do? btw the entire thing is soaked in pb blaster.
i so i calmly wiggle the swaybar and it pops down and shoves the bolt head, washer, and the rubber piece off and i grab the next thing up the shaft. the bottom upper rubber piece, pull it off, and now here i am: a washer.
rusted to the damn bolt. i tried hammering it, wrenching it, no dice. i cant slide the shaft up through the frame until i get this damn washer off.
wtf can i do? btw the entire thing is soaked in pb blaster.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,946
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From: Sacramento
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TBI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Originally Posted by sp63
i have 23 dollars to my name.

I couldn't understand your description very well, but $23 should be good enough for a few miles worth of gas to the hardware store and a single hack saw blade.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 678
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From: Connecticut
Car: '89 Firebird Formula
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T5
after re-reading i think maybe one of us is confused about something, because you seemed to think the bolt head finally breaking was a good
you still have to get that nut off the top to get this endlink off, but now you have no bolt head
you still have to get that nut off the top to get this endlink off, but now you have no bolt head
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 830
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From: Kansas
Car: 85 camaro sport coupe
Engine: 2.8 MFI
Transmission: v6 700R4 wish it was a 5spd Stick
Axle/Gears: Stock non posi 3.42s
i just cut my front ones off get a cheep hacksaw there prolly only $5 or $10 and cut that thing in half.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,733
Likes: 2
From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
undo the bolts holding the swaybar mount (that holds the endlinks) to the car. put it in a vice and beat the hell out of it with a happer. the mount and you are both stronger then the rust.
then when you replace the endlinks coat every bit of it with white lithiam grease. this way this will never happen again. most of my suspension and steering linkage in the front of my car is coated in grease. just makes things go smoothly. when i regrease the balljoints i take all the grease that escapes and rub down the tierods, swaybar, endlinks, centerlink and stuff. keeps it all corosion free.
then when you replace the endlinks coat every bit of it with white lithiam grease. this way this will never happen again. most of my suspension and steering linkage in the front of my car is coated in grease. just makes things go smoothly. when i regrease the balljoints i take all the grease that escapes and rub down the tierods, swaybar, endlinks, centerlink and stuff. keeps it all corosion free.
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someone above said breaking the things is bad. wrong: if you break either end of the thing (outer sway bar or outer frame mount) you can slide all the pieces off and then pull the remaining washer and bushing and bolt out of whichever end isnt broke. problem is, a washer is rusted on so i cant slide the thing up. well its soaked in pb blaster all night, so imma go get frustrated at it some more...
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i have a hacksaw. if i had a jack or something i could get udner there and do that. right now i back my car up onto the curb to slide under it.
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ya know... i saw some bolts hodling the what looks like subframe to the car... its the car-frame side of the sawybar endlink... is this what you are speaking of unbolting? if i did this i could get this bastard apart easily.. how easy is this thing to put back on though???
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Originally Posted by Darkshot
Then dont expect to get very far in a thirdgen 
I couldn't understand your description very well, but $23 should be good enough for a few miles worth of gas to the hardware store and a single hack saw blade.

I couldn't understand your description very well, but $23 should be good enough for a few miles worth of gas to the hardware store and a single hack saw blade.
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Originally Posted by Xophertony
undo the bolts holding the swaybar mount (that holds the endlinks) to the car. put it in a vice and beat the hell out of it with a happer. the mount and you are both stronger then the rust.
then when you replace the endlinks coat every bit of it with white lithiam grease. this way this will never happen again. most of my suspension and steering linkage in the front of my car is coated in grease. just makes things go smoothly. when i regrease the balljoints i take all the grease that escapes and rub down the tierods, swaybar, endlinks, centerlink and stuff. keeps it all corosion free.
then when you replace the endlinks coat every bit of it with white lithiam grease. this way this will never happen again. most of my suspension and steering linkage in the front of my car is coated in grease. just makes things go smoothly. when i regrease the balljoints i take all the grease that escapes and rub down the tierods, swaybar, endlinks, centerlink and stuff. keeps it all corosion free.
ya know... i saw some bolts hodling the what looks like subframe to the car... its the car-frame side of the sawybar endlink... is this what you are speaking of unbolting? if i did this i could get this bastard apart easily.. how easy is this thing to put back on though???
Last edited by sp63; Jul 4, 2006 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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so i went out. and i was trying to get the TOP bolt out of the endlink frame mount thingy. i tried to go through the wheel but i didnt have another 9 inches of extension. :cry: otherwise it would have been easy.
i got the top bolt out eventually but now the bottom bolt is behind the ****ing swaybar end link bolt. DAMNIT. i cant get a wrench in there either. i CAN, but i can only hold the tip end of it to pull it and its HELLA hard to pull. i used a 1/2 drive ratchet to get the first one out, and im not a weakling by any means but it was kickin my ***.
so i got real frustrated and started beating the **** out of the stuck washer. whammo. it fell off. now to get he sleeve and one more washer off.
i agve up for the day because something flew in my eye. AROUND my safety glasses. ugh. got it out though..
i wonder what the other side will be like?
i got the top bolt out eventually but now the bottom bolt is behind the ****ing swaybar end link bolt. DAMNIT. i cant get a wrench in there either. i CAN, but i can only hold the tip end of it to pull it and its HELLA hard to pull. i used a 1/2 drive ratchet to get the first one out, and im not a weakling by any means but it was kickin my ***.
so i got real frustrated and started beating the **** out of the stuck washer. whammo. it fell off. now to get he sleeve and one more washer off.
i agve up for the day because something flew in my eye. AROUND my safety glasses. ugh. got it out though..
i wonder what the other side will be like?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,970
Likes: 1
From: Northern, VA
Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
just cut it all off...and bang at it with a hammer. **** i dont mess with those things they **** me off more then anything and are a big waste of time to get out properly. I just cut anything i can reach with my angle grinder then bend/break/hammer the rest out. They become completely rusted shut there is no way around it. Get the wheel outta the way and go from there...
I broke one of them little endlinks putting my car to the test in some corners the first day i got it
I broke one of them little endlinks putting my car to the test in some corners the first day i got it
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iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,926
Likes: 3
From: mid GA
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI w/ l98 cam
Transmission: T5 5-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.45 posi disc 9 bolt
lol you have to back the car up onto a curb to work under it? damn dude that sucks. i guess i take our lift for granted sometimes...
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Posts: 270
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 1984 Z28 ~Brown Horse~
Engine: 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23...i dunno...
Originally Posted by maroon88iroc
lol you have to back the car up onto a curb to work under it? damn dude that sucks. i guess i take our lift for granted sometimes...
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 444
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From: Walnut Creek, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro Sport Coupe Convertible
Engine: Your Momma
Transmission: I can go forwards and backwards
hey, I have access to a lift, and I've got stands and a jack, but sometimes it's just conveniant to pull a car onto a curb for stuff like oil changes and little simple crap.
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 8,028
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From: DC Metro Area
Car: 87TA 87Form 71Mach1 93FleetWB 04Cum
$23… go to harbor freight and get a $12 4.5” angle grinder and then HD or lowes and get $1.98 cutting disk for it, that will go through hardened bolts much faster then anything with a toothed blade.
After you’re done with the endlink resist the urge to cut up everything else you get near.
After you’re done with the endlink resist the urge to cut up everything else you get near.
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well i took since i never did get a jack to take the wheel off and remvoe that mount i took it to UTI today and had course 28 do it. they put my new ones on and all that jazz and an oil change. pimp. car actually feels like a brand new pimp mobile. i flew home at like 100mph changing lanes it felt FIRM. excellent.
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