....what would you get? Im getting a 92 RS Camaro. Im not looking for luxury ride, just an improvement over stock mostly. Im thinking some sort of lowering springs, some sort of rear axle add-ons, like sway bar, ladder bar, I dont know, something like that, and maybe better tranny and motor mounts. Again, I realize all this will lower ride quality, but I don't care, I want better handling, if I need a good ride and gas mileage, I will drive my Saturn. 

well i did eibach prokit springs, adjustable tokico shocks, Spohn lower control arms with relocation brackets, Hotchkis adjustable panhard bar, Spohn Torque arm and crossmember with poly trans mount. Stock Irocz sway bars as they are really big and aftermarket stuff isnt much different. just added poly sway bar endlink bushings. oh, and TDS wonderbar steering brace. Irocz's had them but others did not, and i'd recommend one..it really tightens up the front subframe and steering response. thats about all for now...pretty much full bolt ons.
you can get all this for under 2 grand. i'd highly recommend adjustable shocks. with the adjustable shocks set to softer settings, the ride is very nice with the somewhat stiffer eibach prokit springs. but crank it up to stiff, and the car is on rails!!! you cant beat that adjustability. it takes a few seconds to change them out and your set.
the only thing else i'd recommend which probly will be one of my next mods, is subframe connectors.
you can get all this for under 2 grand. i'd highly recommend adjustable shocks. with the adjustable shocks set to softer settings, the ride is very nice with the somewhat stiffer eibach prokit springs. but crank it up to stiff, and the car is on rails!!! you cant beat that adjustability. it takes a few seconds to change them out and your set.
the only thing else i'd recommend which probly will be one of my next mods, is subframe connectors.
Member
Well I did Spohn subframe connectors, eibach sportlines, spohn lca relocation brackets, adjustable pan hard bar, new shocks and struts and I am still looking into a adjustable torque arm.
Supreme Member
sub frame connectors are first on your list. Make sure of this.
Tires, shocks and springs, you can do for under a grand, if you aren't getting top of the line stuff. Moog springs for an iroc sorta thing, KYB or such, etc.
Poly bushings everywhere. Like, everywhere. The "kit" is around $250 I think, that covers EVERYTHING. Don't get new bushings for parts you're replacing, ie lower control arms.
Tires, shocks and springs, you can do for under a grand, if you aren't getting top of the line stuff. Moog springs for an iroc sorta thing, KYB or such, etc.
Poly bushings everywhere. Like, everywhere. The "kit" is around $250 I think, that covers EVERYTHING. Don't get new bushings for parts you're replacing, ie lower control arms.
Thanks guys, I never even thought of subframe connectors.

See my sig.
STIFF!
But not the "luxury" ride you want.
Im tending to fall out of favor with my eibach prokit. I think its possible to get the same quality in handling without the jaw rattling / kidney punching.
Even more frustrating on poorly paved roads.
It shakes all my other bolts loose!! If i could I'd go with the Spohn Coil-over kit (pro-tour).
But the most important items are:
1)Strut tower brace
2)IROC or afterMKT coils
3)Struts/shox (go for Koni reds)
4)Tubular pan hard rod
5)Boxed LCA's
6)Steering brace (for reinforcement more than anything)
7)Sub Frames
8) any $$ left over should go toward big brakes
Feel free to ask me any questions
STIFF!
But not the "luxury" ride you want.
Im tending to fall out of favor with my eibach prokit. I think its possible to get the same quality in handling without the jaw rattling / kidney punching.
Even more frustrating on poorly paved roads.
It shakes all my other bolts loose!! If i could I'd go with the Spohn Coil-over kit (pro-tour).
But the most important items are:
1)Strut tower brace
2)IROC or afterMKT coils
3)Struts/shox (go for Koni reds)
4)Tubular pan hard rod
5)Boxed LCA's
6)Steering brace (for reinforcement more than anything)
7)Sub Frames
8) any $$ left over should go toward big brakes
Feel free to ask me any questions
Supreme Member
Quote:
HA! Originally Posted by Sonix
Tires, shocks and springs, you can do for under a grand, if you aren't getting top of the line stuff.
riiiightSupreme Member
I really like mine - about $1500 invested so far.
1) TDS Wonderbar $75 - this is a necessity above all else
2) 34 or 36 front sway bar, larger rear sway bar (used about $60 each)
3) Sub Frame Connectors (I don't have yet but need it)
4) Strut Tower Brace (I don't have yet but need it)
5) Poly endlinks and mounts (motor mounts, tranny mount, torque arm mount, sway bar mounts, sway bar endlinks)
6) Eibach Pro Kit springs - only lowers 1 inch (actually raised my rear cause my springs were so bad) I paid $239 from Advance special order
7) Shocks (I got Bilsteins all around from Autozone special order - no shipping, easy return, 24hr. wait) I paid $540 for all 4 - no adjustments, but they don't seem to need it
8) New ball joints and tie rod ends - Napa with the N part number - nice quality - more costly than stock, but worth it (about $230)
9) Adjustable Panhard Rod - I got Edelbrock, cheap at $120 and does the trick - almost necessary with lowering springs - I could have done without for awhile IF I didn't already have a bent panhard bar.
Wonderbar about 15 minute install with jack time.
I did shocks, struts, springs, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bars/bushings/end links all in one weekend.
Poly torque arm mount PITA, but nice afterwards. It's hard to get that tranny end all assembled and get the torque arm into it far enough to reattach to rear end - frustration, some lube, and a big hammer finally got it for me.
Poly tranny mount debateable to some - it adds vibration in your console, but with my 350, fresh tranny rebuild with shift kit and vette servos it was necessary.
Poly motor mounts PITA - after you get the mount bolts out - just reinstall them with the heads in from the bottom instead of nuts on from bottom - it doesn't matter what direction the bolts go in and it makes it way easier to do. You'll see what I mean if/when you do it.
When you do the springs - get a 1 ft piece of nice size chain form hardware store and bolts/nuts/washers to connect the ends together, wrap it around the spring and through a hole in the K-member and attach chain to itself with bolts/nuts/washers as tight to the spring as you can BEFORE you remove the ball joint and lower the control arm - this will prevent the spring from uncompressing in your face and requiring you to get a new head sewn on your shoulders! A coat hanger or piece of small rope comes in handy to feed the chain through the spring and k-member.
Good luck - and let us know what you decide on.
1) TDS Wonderbar $75 - this is a necessity above all else
2) 34 or 36 front sway bar, larger rear sway bar (used about $60 each)
3) Sub Frame Connectors (I don't have yet but need it)
4) Strut Tower Brace (I don't have yet but need it)
5) Poly endlinks and mounts (motor mounts, tranny mount, torque arm mount, sway bar mounts, sway bar endlinks)
6) Eibach Pro Kit springs - only lowers 1 inch (actually raised my rear cause my springs were so bad) I paid $239 from Advance special order
7) Shocks (I got Bilsteins all around from Autozone special order - no shipping, easy return, 24hr. wait) I paid $540 for all 4 - no adjustments, but they don't seem to need it
8) New ball joints and tie rod ends - Napa with the N part number - nice quality - more costly than stock, but worth it (about $230)
9) Adjustable Panhard Rod - I got Edelbrock, cheap at $120 and does the trick - almost necessary with lowering springs - I could have done without for awhile IF I didn't already have a bent panhard bar.
Wonderbar about 15 minute install with jack time.
I did shocks, struts, springs, ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bars/bushings/end links all in one weekend.
Poly torque arm mount PITA, but nice afterwards. It's hard to get that tranny end all assembled and get the torque arm into it far enough to reattach to rear end - frustration, some lube, and a big hammer finally got it for me.
Poly tranny mount debateable to some - it adds vibration in your console, but with my 350, fresh tranny rebuild with shift kit and vette servos it was necessary.
Poly motor mounts PITA - after you get the mount bolts out - just reinstall them with the heads in from the bottom instead of nuts on from bottom - it doesn't matter what direction the bolts go in and it makes it way easier to do. You'll see what I mean if/when you do it.
When you do the springs - get a 1 ft piece of nice size chain form hardware store and bolts/nuts/washers to connect the ends together, wrap it around the spring and through a hole in the K-member and attach chain to itself with bolts/nuts/washers as tight to the spring as you can BEFORE you remove the ball joint and lower the control arm - this will prevent the spring from uncompressing in your face and requiring you to get a new head sewn on your shoulders! A coat hanger or piece of small rope comes in handy to feed the chain through the spring and k-member.
Good luck - and let us know what you decide on.
Supreme Member
Quote:
riiiight
Well, thinking in canuck dollars here;Originally Posted by rwdtech
HA!
riiiight moog springs, 5664's in front, cc635 in rear - $175 total.
KYB gas adjust in rear, GR2 in front - $225 total
That's $400. Think you can buy 4 215/65/R15's for $600? I think you can. Tirerack lists a decent brand for ~$110 per i'd think.
You can easily beat my prices in USA, thanks to summit, etc etc..
That's gonna blow the doors off what you had from the factory. Like I said, it's not top-of-the-line road course racing stuff, but it's gonna be better than a brand new '92 Z-28 for example.
Throw in poly all around, a few new bits (LCA's, relocations), SFC's, and that puts you just about at $2000.
215/65/15's??? man those are small tires with big sidewall
if your car doesnt have 16x8s or bigger rims, then i suggest upgrading to those or bigger first. my tires are very good and only 109 bucks a piece. i cant imagine tryin to get a big 3400lb v8 car to handle/hook with tires under 245's. 245's arent adequate. i think 275's are a good starting point
but i used ebay to get shocks/sprigns... 180 for the prokit, 400 for the adjustable tokicos. tires are 436. thats a HUGE improvement over stock handling for 1016 bucks....
if your car doesnt have 16x8s or bigger rims, then i suggest upgrading to those or bigger first. my tires are very good and only 109 bucks a piece. i cant imagine tryin to get a big 3400lb v8 car to handle/hook with tires under 245's. 245's arent adequate. i think 275's are a good starting point
but i used ebay to get shocks/sprigns... 180 for the prokit, 400 for the adjustable tokicos. tires are 436. thats a HUGE improvement over stock handling for 1016 bucks....
Supreme Member
There you go, Orr can do it for $1000, and adjustable tokicos and prokit are DEFINATELY better.
well, 215/65/R15 is the factory tire size for the earlier year cars. They are adequate, but yea, you can do better.... Now i've read that he's got a '92, so yes, he'd be looking at 16" tires.
$109 per is a good deal for a 245/50?/R16 tire.
well, 215/65/R15 is the factory tire size for the earlier year cars. They are adequate, but yea, you can do better.... Now i've read that he's got a '92, so yes, he'd be looking at 16" tires.
$109 per is a good deal for a 245/50?/R16 tire.
Supreme Member
Quote:
moog springs, 5664's in front, cc635 in rear - $175 total.
are those springs different from stock?Originally Posted by Sonix
moog springs, 5664's in front, cc635 in rear - $175 total.
Supreme Member
That's the stock replacement rear for most years (which is quite adequate), and the Z28 convertible front replacement. It's the stiffest front spring that you can put in a 3rd gen, that you get at a parts store (rather then special ordering from a racing placing).
Not sure why the convertibles got the stiffest spring, I guess they're somehow heavier in the front. It's also listed as the front spring for some mid '90s S15 trucks.
760ish lbs/in. Compare that spring rate to some of those cheesy "stiff" lowering springs that are higher in cost, due to the fancy coloring scheme on the box, and the stickers you get. I think some of the lowering springs are only in the low 700lbs/in range.
I thoroughly enjoy this spring setup.
Not sure why the convertibles got the stiffest spring, I guess they're somehow heavier in the front. It's also listed as the front spring for some mid '90s S15 trucks.
760ish lbs/in. Compare that spring rate to some of those cheesy "stiff" lowering springs that are higher in cost, due to the fancy coloring scheme on the box, and the stickers you get. I think some of the lowering springs are only in the low 700lbs/in range.
I thoroughly enjoy this spring setup.
yep, shop around, you can find new parts for 1000-1200 bucks easy.
and truthfully, stock Irocz springs arent bad at all. i'm willin to bet that with adjustable shocks on those springs will net good results and have a fine ride. else just cut a coil or two and lower the center of gravity some and stiffen them up.
and yes 109 bucks for this tire is a good deal..its a very high performance street tire without the high performance price! gotta love that!
and truthfully, stock Irocz springs arent bad at all. i'm willin to bet that with adjustable shocks on those springs will net good results and have a fine ride. else just cut a coil or two and lower the center of gravity some and stiffen them up.
and yes 109 bucks for this tire is a good deal..its a very high performance street tire without the high performance price! gotta love that!
The Project
Supreme Member
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So who makes a better product....BMR, Spoon or Edebrock?
Member
It all depends on what product you are looking to get from them. Edelbrock makes good stuff, I'm only really oriented towards their carbs though, but I'm sure they offer some good stuff. I don't know much about BMR stuff, I've never encountered any of their stuff but many people are very happy with their product. I do myself like Spohn, not Spoon. I know that they make quality parts but if I can find something that's the same thing at a better price I would jump on that instead of Spohning up your undercar. Also one that you or nobody else mentioned is UMI. I was alittle skeptical buying from them off of eBay but they make quality parts without the 24k price. So really take your pick of any of these companies and you'll most likely be satisfied.
local shop bought the UMI test car and it was decked out...it was a 4th gen SS. looked good. the products seem like really good stuff. 4th gen guys like it from what i seen
Senior Member
Quote:
Go summitracing.com. I just got GasAJusts and GR2 for $180 w/ shipping.Originally Posted by Sonix
KYB gas adjust in rear, GR2 in front - $225 total




