Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Tired of Replacing Ball Joints...

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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #1  
sancho's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: '89 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: B&W 2.77 Posi
Tired of Replacing Ball Joints...

I'm on my third set of ball joints in the past 3 years for my '89 IROC and it looks like I'm going to have to change them again.

Whenever I go over a bump (especially at low speeds--i.e. a speed bump), I get a "crunching" sound from the front end as the front suspension absorbs the shock. The sound is very obvious and is metallic in nature--like metal-on-metal--and it occurs about equally on the passenger and drivers sides. I was able to temporarily alleviate this problem by lubing the front end (esp. the ball joints), but the sound just came back after a few weeks. I make sure to get Moog ball joints, so I don't think think the parts are defective.

My only guess as to what could be causing this was something at install-time. I do remember having a hard time pressing the ball joints into the A-frame because the press I used would not press the joints straight in. It would get to the point where part of the joint would seat while the other still had more space before it seated. After trying several times to get the joint to go in straight, I eventually just cheated and used an impact wrench on the press to force the joint to seat. The joints did seat completely and did not appear to show any damage.

Anyways, I'm just wondering if anybody else has had chronic problems with these things wearing out prematurely? Am I just screwing them up on install or what?

Thanks
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #2  
85 REDBIRD's Avatar
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From: Tucson
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 carbed
Transmission: T5
I just changed mine yesterday, and had the same problem, they wouldn't go in straight. With enough pressure on the press tool, they straightened out and fully seated, but I can't help but think this has to cause the hole in the control arm to enlarge.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 05:16 PM
  #3  
sancho's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: '89 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: B&W 2.77 Posi
Yep, I've got the exact same fear as you there as far as enlarging the hole. And, as you can probably tell, I've done this several times--and I cannot recall a time when it actually went in straight. It was just particularly bad for me this last time because even the impact wrench wasn't cutting it. I seem to recall having to get underneath the A-arm with a 18" long breakover bar and put everything I had into seating that thing. I'm guessing that's a LOT more pressure than should be required to properly seat the joint.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 06:00 PM
  #4  
twobirds's Avatar
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From: Thornton, CO
Car: 1987 GTA 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/2400 stall
Axle/Gears: B/W 3:27 posi disc
This must be a common problem. Last year I did mine and the samething happend. They just did not go in straight like you all said already,but a little bit of "love" and they went in. I'd hate to have to use a oversized ball joint. What a pita.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 04:56 PM
  #5  
IROC-You's Avatar
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From: JSS Soto, Tallil IRAQ
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 414ci Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
not going in straight is normal, happens on most cars when using the C-Clamp balljoint press, it just doesnt line up EXACTLY correct. As long as the end result is the balljoint seating fully, you should be fine.

The best way to get them to go in straigh is to remove the whole control arm and use a hydraulic shop press.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #6  
sancho's Avatar
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From: Dallas, TX
Car: '89 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: B&W 2.77 Posi
Think any of this explains why I am replacing the ball joints so often? This is a daily-driver, not an auto-cross car, so I don't drive it nearly hard enough to put abnormal wear on them.

IROC-You: I'm probably going to be dropping the A-Arms this time because I need to replace the bushings as well. Any idea what kind of place might have a hydraulic press? Is it generally very expensive to have done?
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #7  
wiseman9986's Avatar
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From: moline, il
Car: 82 z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
try getting quality ball joints like moog or spicer if your not already no cheap autozone ones
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #8  
sogabe's Avatar
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From: NorCal
Car: 91 Camaro RS(RealSlow)
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: unknown/mostlikelycrappy
did u check ur A-arm bushings?

just double checking make sure u dont overlook at that
caz worn bushing will give metallic sound too..
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 07:31 PM
  #9  
IROC-You's Avatar
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From: JSS Soto, Tallil IRAQ
Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 414ci Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"
Originally Posted by sancho
Think any of this explains why I am replacing the ball joints so often? This is a daily-driver, not an auto-cross car, so I don't drive it nearly hard enough to put abnormal wear on them.

IROC-You: I'm probably going to be dropping the A-Arms this time because I need to replace the bushings as well. Any idea what kind of place might have a hydraulic press? Is it generally very expensive to have done?

Most shops should have a hydrualic press, they are not expensive. Try a tranny shop, they will most definately have one, else they are no good at building trannies.

I do not think its why you are replacing them so often. The seat of the balljoint has absolutely no affect on the internals of the ball joint (the part that wears out). The balljoint going in crooked during install is going to have no affect on the balljoint operation itself as long as it seats correctly.

I think your balljoints are being worn out super fast by the other steering components and possibly control arm bushings. Also make sure your alignment is good.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 08:34 PM
  #10  
//<86TA>\\'s Avatar
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From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
i had my a-arm done at a national auto parts machine shop locally, had my new poly bushings and new balljoints installed, plus got them glass beaded for like 75$ for the pair. price includes ball joints not poly bushings
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