what are your thoughts/comments on the jegster torque arm kit from jegs?i was thinking of getting it with the gift certificates i got for christmas.

 

ive heard it works well for a car under 500 horse. you need to remove the interior to install it. if you get one get the one with the adj pinion.

 

s&w makes a ton of stuff for f-bodies you should check them out

 

Yes it works well and a decent design. The downfall to it is it requires you to remove the interior and drill about 30 holes in the floor to install it, it is quite noisy also.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

 

Just wanted to say I have your sfc, lca's, wonderbar and adj pan hard rod (on car). Love your product. Great quality. Do you have a distributer in the Buffalo area? Hate paying the fees to ship to Canada. Would rather make a run across the borderto pick up some relocation brackets.

 

why do you have to drill all the holes to install it ? someone got pics ?
im confused ?

what would be a better choice for a daily driver with around 350 horse ?

or even what other suspension/chassis components?

good lcuk

 

Thanks BillsBlue89, thats great to hear

The Jegs torque arm bolts into the tunnel area. They give you a piece of sheet metal formed like the tunnel area, you then drill multiple holes into the tunnel to bolt this piece into place, you then attach the torque arm to it. I am sure someone has some pictures.

Hope that helps,
Ryan

 

If you've got a dialy driver, stick with a longer/factory length type torque arm. I've been running the Jester adjustable unit for years, and for my application it's worked great. I dont know about the noise, guess with the engine rumbling I never gave it any attention like a daily driver would, but it is a stiffer ride than factory. It is will be this way since it changes your IC line and AS and completely changes the way the power hits your tires. This has been discussed many times already so I wont get into that.

but mine works, works well, just dont know if I'd want that stiffer ride in a car I drove everyday.

30 holes is kinda of exahgerating, but there are at least 8 that I can remember...been a long time since I installed it, and like every new part I got back then, it usually showed up a few hours before I had to be at the track so I never took pics in the scurry to get it in to make the first time trail LOL!! Either way, it was under 2hours start to finish to get it ready, I do know that for a fact since I got it at 1pm, and was on the way to the track by 3pm (my normal time on fridays)

 

I want to get this same arm cuz it's the only one that will fit with my exhaust. But I had concerns with serious power pushing up on the tunnel area, so I wanted to tie it to the cage somehow. About where in the car does it attach to the tunnel? Like below the console storage box or more forward or what? Pics would be awesome.

Thanks.
-Mike

 

IHI - one more thing... your car specs are almost identical to mine, so I'm hopeful to get launches like the one shown in your pic once I get mine rolling. Also, I was born in September of 74 too.

 

more/less the mounting point of the tq arm is in the area of the center console....I cant even remember where the 3rd gen console storage compartment was located at, but it is roughly under the storage area for the 4th gen compartment.

I've nutted and bolted my car many times over the years checking for problem prior to a race weekend, or at least once a month for PM, and I've yet to see any signs of fatigue/damage in the whole tq arm mount or tq arm itself, save your time, money, and weight by just installing it per instructions. I only averaged 5-6K street miles a year, but it was raced every weekend all summer since I basically got the car-meaning, if it was gonna break, it'd would have showed it's ugly face thousands of passes ago.

I'm bad about pics for stuff like that, I always tell myself I should take some shots for future reference like this thread, but once I get in wrench mode, I zone out until the job is done and dont like wasting much time doing documentaries LOL!! I hate working on this POS anymore than I have too.

 

The jegster torque arm is a great unit.. I installed one on my car in June 2006 and love it.

No worries about the trans tunnel being weak.. The way the saddle mount is made and bolts in, it really helps to add strenght to the tunnel.. The plate is over 1/8" thick. It's not thin sheet metal.

The way I have my cage the rear bolts of the TQ arm saddle mount goes through the 2 floor plates for my "sub frame" bars of the cage.

Oh yeah theres only 8 bolts per side (16 total) that goes through trans tunnel not 30.

Here's a few pics of the jegster TQ arm, and it mounted in my car

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2192...41290424mkdfQU
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2770...41290424SJlSHO
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2865...41290424drOEBf
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2147...41290424hKjluE
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2828...41290424mazMgQ (this one shows the interior where the bolts are placed... Notice my rear bolt goes through roll cage kicker bar floor plate)
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2686...41290424fcrgkL
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2356...41290424KXjfSy
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2015...41290424WsbdKh

I didn't/don't notice any more noise with this vs. the stock TQ. The ride is alittle stiffer though. Not bad enough to hurt anything IMO. Mine is a daily driven car that I race on the weekends. Runs 11.40's @118 mph with a 1.60's 60' time

 

Thanks for the info and the pics. Watch out tho, I think that's poison ivy next to your torque arm in that one pic.

 

do you think the plate could be welded in instead of all those holes? it would save taking the console out......did the instructions suggest welding?

 

if you welded it with the console in place, your carpet would be on fire, and the console would probably get melted. lol

 

Aside from that. I'm sure you could spot weld it on if the peice is closes enough to the trans tunnel

 

I definately thought about welding mine in, but the tunnel brace/bracket is not real "form fitting", so I just held it up, drilled the holes and bolted it as per instructions. PITA, ya need a buddy, but overall it was not bad at all IMO...like I said, 2hrs and I was done and on my way to the track.

I know it held the 525-550hp just fine, wore out my slicks from hitting them so hard before the rubber was even close to being gone, we'll see what happens with an additional 100hp here this weekend of next if my new mill holds together...thinking that kind of power and the short bar will be more than these small tires can handle. My quick fix to bring down rpm will be 1.5" taller tires (29.5) and see what that does, then I'll try a few other things if that dont help.

 

Speaking of torque arms, i have a 84' firebird, with all Spohn stuff for rear susp., torque arm, lca, panhard, i also have rear stuff from Neverlift Racecrafts (Leo Barnaby ), its all alot lighter and the torque arm is 7" shorter than Spohn's, not saying it doesn't work it works great, but with Neverlift's stuff ,there all not adj., but when i was using Neverlift's stuff the car would barely lift the wheels off the ground with the 420"sbc and went 9.54 @143, at 3285lbs., till i built a 440"sbc, at 3025lbs., and now it blows the tires off or stands the car on the bumper, i'm thinking that maybe the shorter torque arm will not be as vilent off the line, and lighter, so i'm looking for so input or your ideas on this, plus the lca's are in the stock position, and i do have lca relocation brackets on the rear. Thanks JR Newman, NMCA Pro-Stock #5028.