Ball Joint Idler Arm Help??
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From: Tescott, Kansas 67484
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
Ball Joint Idler Arm Help??
Hey
I got a 1987 camaro and next saturday I'm going to be replacing the ball joints and idler arm. This is something I havent done before and from what I've found on the internet I know I'll need a ball joint press and separator tool, I'm open to any hints, tips, and full instructions from anyone that way this can be as easy as possible
Thanks, Matt
I got a 1987 camaro and next saturday I'm going to be replacing the ball joints and idler arm. This is something I havent done before and from what I've found on the internet I know I'll need a ball joint press and separator tool, I'm open to any hints, tips, and full instructions from anyone that way this can be as easy as possible
Thanks, Matt
Idler is no problem - disconnect it from the centre link (relay rod), and then unbolt the two nuts holding it in place. You may want to use a marker to scribe/draw around the idler arm, so that when you instal the new one, it will be bolted back into the general location of the old one. This will help when it comes time for an alignment. When you are done, use some rubbing alcohol and rub away the marker.
Ball joint:
follow the instruction on the tool that you rent/buy. This too is relatively easy. The most trouble I had, was getting the new B.J. into place/seated correctly into the A-arm. The ball joint has to seat properly! This is very important. Another thing; there is a cutout in the rubber dust cover that should be aligned away from the rotor/brake assembly (it should be turned to face the engine compartment). This prevents any extra grease that you pump into the B.J from squirting near the brake rotor. (I am not sure if all ball joint dust covers have the cut out -it will depend on the replacement BJ that you buy I know the NAPA-MOOG (the heigher quality domestic not offshore manufactured ones have it), so perhaps someone else can confirm). DO a search on TGO, there are many threads about both procedures, oh, and if you don't have a manual, this may be of some help. If you want pics from the manual, I can attempt to scan some for you.
Hope it goes smooth. Don't forget to grease up the new parts!
-Andrew
Ball joint:
follow the instruction on the tool that you rent/buy. This too is relatively easy. The most trouble I had, was getting the new B.J. into place/seated correctly into the A-arm. The ball joint has to seat properly! This is very important. Another thing; there is a cutout in the rubber dust cover that should be aligned away from the rotor/brake assembly (it should be turned to face the engine compartment). This prevents any extra grease that you pump into the B.J from squirting near the brake rotor. (I am not sure if all ball joint dust covers have the cut out -it will depend on the replacement BJ that you buy I know the NAPA-MOOG (the heigher quality domestic not offshore manufactured ones have it), so perhaps someone else can confirm). DO a search on TGO, there are many threads about both procedures, oh, and if you don't have a manual, this may be of some help. If you want pics from the manual, I can attempt to scan some for you.
Hope it goes smooth. Don't forget to grease up the new parts!
-Andrew
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From: Tescott, Kansas 67484
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
ok, thanks for everything this should help alot, i dont think i will need the pictures, but im pretty sure ill rent the tools from adance auto parts, or autozonem thats prolly where ill get the parts from too, im already planning on paying for the expensive ones, did you say it would need aligned after i do this?
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From: Chester County, PA
Car: 88 Firebird - SOLD!
Engine: 2.8L
Using the ball joint press tool from AZ will get the old BJ out in a snap. Getting the new one aligned straight and holding the tool can be a PITA. Put the BJ's in the freezer overnight and work fast on the install - this helps the install go much smoother. I am sure you will be replacing your stabilizer bar bushings while you're at it (real inexpensive). You should not need an alignment after the idler arm and BJ replacement, unless you are experiencing uneven tire wear now.
Good Luck & be safe around those coil springs!
Corky
Good Luck & be safe around those coil springs!
Corky
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From: Tescott, Kansas 67484
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
when you say sway bar bushings, do you mean the end links, or the bushings that are mounted to the frame rail? I know now that my end links are bent back, not sure how it happened but its been like that since i purchased the car, could this also cause more problems for me?
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Both you should replace. You can get them from a parts store or go polyurethane and get some from our sponsors i think ud be spending under $50 for the endlinks and also the bushings that hold it to the frame.
Bent endlinks could cause problems, id think more noise then anything but like said they are cheap enough you should just replace anyway. If you have to drop the control arm then the sway bar endlinks will have to be disconnected.
Bent endlinks could cause problems, id think more noise then anything but like said they are cheap enough you should just replace anyway. If you have to drop the control arm then the sway bar endlinks will have to be disconnected.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Tescott, Kansas 67484
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
ok, that i will probaly do, but now i am confused as to where the stabilzer bar is at, if i could get a general description i could prolly find it when i get under there to do the work
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From: Chester County, PA
Car: 88 Firebird - SOLD!
Engine: 2.8L
Don't worry about it - you will see it when you start the job. Stabilizer bar, Sway bar - all the same thing. One end attaches to the control arm with a series of stacked bushings. The bar continues up towards the front of the car & mounts to the body with 2 "D" shaped bushings then continues over to the other control arm with a stacked set of bushings. Don't sweat it you will see what we are talking about when you pull the wheel & start taking things apart.
Corky
Corky
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 140
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From: Tescott, Kansas 67484
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 350 dart ies comp cam intake carb
Transmission: 700 r4, shift kit, 2400 stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt stock
ok, and thanks for all the help guys!!!
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From: Naples, FL
Car: 91 RS Camaro, 75 L82 Corvette
Engine: LO3, 383 Stroker
Transmission: 700R4, TH400
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 3.23 posi/LS1 discs, stock
Using the ball joint press tool from AZ will get the old BJ out in a snap. Getting the new one aligned straight and holding the tool can be a PITA. Put the BJ's in the freezer overnight and work fast on the install - this helps the install go much smoother. I am sure you will be replacing your stabilizer bar bushings while you're at it (real inexpensive). You should not need an alignment after the idler arm and BJ replacement, unless you are experiencing uneven tire wear now.
Good Luck & be safe around those coil springs!
Corky
Good Luck & be safe around those coil springs!
Corky
put the balljoints in the freezer, trust us on this one. But I feel better getting the alginment checked after and front end work is done. Thread
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