I've finally decided to lower my car 'cause I can't stand all the empty (factory ride height) space between the fender and the tire.

When you guys did it, did you do it yourself, or did you let a shop do it for you? How much did you lower? Is it hard to get back to factory ride height if I decide to later?

I don't want it "dropped and ghetto" looking ... I just want it nice and clean kinda' like bluezee's car.

 

If you keep your original springs you can always return it to factory specs.Cut them & your screwed if you change your mind later on.I went with Ground Control.These are adjustable by using a weight jack.I can raise it higher than stock or slam it if desired.Right now my car sits about 1.5 inches lower stock stock.

 

I put the Eibach sportlines on a few weeks back. The front sat at 26 3/4 originally, now it sits at 25 3/4. The rear was at 27 1/4, now it's at 26 1/4. It lowered 1" all around. I presume it will go down a slight amount more after a few hundred miles. I drove it about a block and took these measurements, I just wanted to set the front springs. It is winter here, so It will be a bit before I can really drive her and see how it handles and what not. They look real nice, not too low, but it sucked up some of that fender gap, which is exactly what I was looking for. As far as install, rears are real easy, the 2 shock bolts allow the rear to be dropped low enough to swap em out. The front is a little more difficult. I was able to do it without a spring compressor. I disconnected the outer side of the control arm from the strut. This involved removing the caliper, rotor and dust shield as well. I had a jack under the control arm and slowly lowered the jack until the control arm was all the way down. It took some man handling, but all in all it's not too bad. BE SURE YOU HAVE THE THE JACK UNDER THE CONTROL ARM BEFORE UN-BOLTING THE STRUT!!! AND ALWAYS BE SURE THE VEHICLE IS PROPERLY JACKED AND SECURE!!

later, matt

 

I had a shop install mine. I cost me $180 for the installation. They had it for about a day. I still need to get some LCA relocation brackets, an adjustable panhard bar, and subframe connectors. BTW, they are the Eibach Sportlines...about a 2 inch drop:

 

Eibach Sportlines here, check my vbgarage for a pic.

 

I'm in the process of a complete suspension overhaul. For springs I'm having Eibach Sportlines put on my car within a week or two. I've never changed out the springs myself and I'm thinking that it looks like a job best left to the pros. If you have the cash that's the route I would take if I were you. A lot less headache and you'll have your car back on the road sooner. On a seperate note, is anyone here running KYB GR2 shocks/struts? How's the ride quality?

 

Its not all that difficult to swap the springs.Especially the rears.On the front youll need a spring compressor.I spent the money on one 14 years ago & its come in handy many times.My ground control set-up came with eibach springs, but i dont know the #s on them.Front spring rate is 600 or 650 inch lbs.Rear spring rate is 170(i think).I had KYBs years ago.The front struts were adjustable, but even on the softest setting they were stiff,too stiff almost.Never really got used to them.Currently using Tokico iLLuminas.Also adjustable.

 

VERY good info and pics! I just bought the Eibach sportline springs myself.
I plan on putting them on in the spring.
I was told to change the shocks by someone, and someone else told me my shocks and struts I have on there now will be fine.
What about a front end alignment? Is the car going to need one when you lower it?

Sickness91Z28, you car looks totally awsome! I cant wait till I get mine put on!

 

Post some pics if/when you lower it. I went back and forth with this idea on my TA and so far decided against it.

 

I'm running the Eibach pro-kit with Tokico HPs all around. I'm very happy with the set-up.

Took me a few hours to do the rear, although I think I could do it quicker now that I know what to expect. Pretty easy. The front was a little more involved. If you still have OE bushings, your best bet it to drop the whole A-arm, have a shop press in new bushings and ball joints. Just use a safety chain on the spring. I used a compressor, but it was a little nerve racking. Next time, I'll drop the whole A-arm. ...might as well look into new caster camber plates/bearings while they're out too.

Yes, you'll need an alignment, if for no other reason than to reset your camber angle.