daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

alright im pulling my rs off the street, right now im in the middle of converting it to run in superpro/ and superstreet. it will be powered by a 3.3L v6 with a garret gt40r turbo running on alcohol. i had originally bought a rear frame rail kit along with a strange s-60 rear.well frankly i dont need that strong of a rear, so i sold it,what im looking at now is a ford 8.8 rear.(trying to stay as small/light as possible but still strong enough) im pretty sure an 8.8 rear will work out fine.
now i could still backhalf the car and run a 4link/or ladder bars,but im quessing i could keep the car lighter if i dont and use something that works with the stock lca mounts,and allows me to drop the tq arm

ive seen the lakewood lift bars, and a few others, ive also seen on a 4th gen that had a tubular lca but it had a bar that went from a bracket ontop of the axle tube down to the lca about 1/4 way back from were the lca bolted to the car.this bar had an adjuster on it..

whats ur guys opinions on what would work best without going to a ladderbar or 4 link setup.

keep in mind this car will only run on a 9.0-10.0 slick et goals are around 10.50's and im trying to keep the car as light as possible

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

7.66@186 mph! Rick Head blows away the record for fastest torque arm car and fastest Drag Radial car.

Drag Radials and all BMR Stock style suspention. Twin Turbo 89Camaro
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...bo9rearend.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/oth...o9rearend2.jpg

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

thats badass,but i wouldnt be able to keep the tq arm if i go with the 8.8 rear, unless i fabed something to mount one.which frankly i really dont car if i have to , but im just looking for the lightest most effective setup, though that setup that guy has looks pretty light to me,im just trying to stay away from a 9 inch or 12 bolt as well

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Why do you want to say away from a 9 or 12?

You have fab skills. you could easily make a TRQ ARM bracket. or just run a 4link setup.

Just go 9inch and coil overs
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/Car...d/DSC03646.JPG

Im debating on running the 4 link or weldeing on LCA brackets and making a TRQ arm bracket. rear end already has the TRQ arm mounts.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

i just dont think i need that much rear under the car,smaller rear means less drivetrain loss, i did come across one rear im seriously considering, i did a rear on a late model jeep last week,its had a dana rear except its made out of aluminum,so depending if its strong or not, and available gear ratios/posi units, i may have found a nice lightwieght rear.though i still need to see if i can get custom axles made for it

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

if you're breaking 10 bolts then a 12 bolt or 9" would be the easiest way to go. Get an aluminum center section like I did and your 9" will weigh less than a 12 bolt.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

i havent broken a 10 bolt yet, but this motor is 12.7-1 cr with a garret gt40r turbo around 18 psi on ethanol so this things gonan make a considerable amount of power. i figure the 8.8 would work alright,and wouldnt have the drivetrain losses of a 9" or 12 bolt

89 brewcity

have you guys heard that strange rearends came out with a direct bolt in for our cars. It is supost to handle like 800hp. its like indestructable.

AlkyIROC

Strange and Currie along with 1 or 2 others offer either a 9" or 12 bolt bolt in diff.

If you have enough power where you need something stronger than the factory 10 bolt, then finding something with "less drivetrain loss" isn't one of your priorities. Unless you're class racing where every small percentage of power that you can get to the ground increases your chances of winning, just install something strong enough like a 12 bolt or a 9". The power loss difference between these 2 diffs won't be noticed. Each has positives and negatives. Buy what you want or like and install it. The Dana 60 is an overkill. I've thought about one but it's even too much diff for me.

You can buy a 9" bolt in housing with axles for about $1000. Buy an aluminum center section to reduce unsprung weight and if it's track only, an aluminum spool. You can shave off a couple more pounds with lightened gears. For the power range you're looking at, 31 spline axles are more than enough. A complete diff should be around $2500 or you can just run your 7.5" 10 bolt until it breaks then decide if it's too much money. Doing a back half with a narrowed diff etc will cost a lot more than that.

My best time of 9.754 was with ladder bars on a 29.5 x 10.5 slick with only inner fender modifications to get the tires in and some minor floor modifications to go over the ladder bars.

This year my car has a back half 4-link with 32 x 14 slicks.

Blown alcohol means you have a blower, preferably a roots style, not a turbo and you spelled alcohol wrong.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I think the strange one you're talking about brewcity is one of the 9" or 12 bolt setups. Yep, bolt in, and $3000 or so.

Dave; I think since you've got the TIG skills, the sky is the limit for what you *can* do.
But, I think since you're doing this as a pure 1/4 mile car, go 4 link. It's easiest to adjust the settings on it, and is "best" for straight line use.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah i do plan on running in super street its on a 10.90 index,but im still not sure what the new motor is gonna put down for power,i may get this thing in the car and be very disapointed still,thats why im looking for everylil bit i can get.

yeah i did lol ill have to fix that

AlkyIROC

Index racing isn't as easy as it looks. Super Street is a 10.90 index on a .500 full tree. The goal is to run as close to 10.90 as possible on every pass without going quicker all day long and from week to week. This means you need a car that capable of running at least 10.50's or quicker and using a throttle stop to slow it down to 10.90. When weather conditions are poor or you're at a higher elevation track and the engine isn't making as much HP, you still have some in reserve to still run 10.90. You won't win too many races if everyone else is running 10.90's and you're down into the 11.30's.

Along with a throttle stop, you'll also need a delay box to get those good reaction times. Since you also plan on running in Super Pro, I have to assume you have either or both. Although not mandatory, the only way to be competitive is to have them.

My car is quick enough to run in Super Gas (Hot Rod) but I just run in Super Pro (Top ET). I use a delay box but not a throttle stop even though my delay box has lots of features allowing me to use one. I may install a throttle stop to use as a starting line enhancer.

One more thing about Super Street. There's a minimum race weight of 2800 pounds. Don't get the car too light or you won't qualify. Typically to run in any of the indexed "super" classes, a car is normally tubbed out with big tires. Although a small tire car can compete, it has a slim chance of winning. Since you're trying to hit the same number as every other car in the class, if you spin off the line, you lose. The bigger tires reduce or eliminate that chance.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

yeah i know all that, but superpro/superstreet are the only real things ill fit into.
superstreet lets me get down to 2,000 pounds but that would never happen and even if i did id boot myself out of superpro.

i cant run this engine on gas theres no way in hell with a 12.7-1 cr and the turbo

i didnt plan on delay or throttle stop.atleast just yet, i figured by adjusting boost i could compensate for bad air.

that and the first year i just wanna get out have some fun and make some passes really and see how i do, and just take it from there