HTH did you get your new springs into the tubular k-member and tubular a-arms? I've tried several different compressors and nearly lost my hand several times.
I'm looking at this compressor now. Hopefully it can accept a 3/4" spring.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...1530315&rd=1,1
I've tried the one that looks like this from Advance Auto but the offset of the hooks was nowhere near enough to prevent the compressor from slipping or popping once I get some tension on it. Autozone was worthless as well. Nobody around here even sells a compressor that looks much like this.
This is annoying the HECK out of me.
I hate cars!

 

ViperKiller,

Do you have a known frame straightness issue? Has the car been accident damaged?

If not, then I would persevere with trying to fit the new K-member. The trick seems to be to have one person looking in from the top, helping to hold it up when required. Check firstly that the ?Captive nuts are mobile in their holes, give them a good spray with some penetrating oil etc.

Then try to put one bolt in each side of the KMember, even if the rest look way off, as if they are not going to go in. Start off with only putting in each bolt by finger onto a few initial threads.

When I was doing this I started thinking 'Have Spohn sent me the know type of K-member?'. As it looked so far off. The angles of the K-Member supporting brackets seemed different also. Again, with the bolts that connect it to the K out, loosen the other one to allow it to pivot/swing.

When you try these things it should line up, and start looking better when you tighten the nuts slightly. Just don't torque any of them fully until they are all in finger tight. Then do each a little at a time.

The real fun will come when you put in the Spohn A Arms and try to reinstall your springs................

I spoke to Steve on the phone last week about the spring install with his K and A's. In his own words, it is a pain, a bitch etc. He recommends tightening the compressors down fully with air tools, i.e. until there is no real space between the coils.

For the spring to slide straight in it would need to be only 10inches long (or compressed to that length). For your information, the stock spring is about 14inches long and the Eibach Pro Kit is 12.5inches.

I've only now managed to get one spring in, and have already broken a set of coil spring compressors doing so. For those who haven't done this yet, I'm not joking. Installing coil springs on the stock A-Arms and K-member is really easy in comparison.

You need to use two spring compressors inside the spring, ensure that the threaded rod will not move upwards outwith the top of the spring and hit the locating part on the K. Tighten each compressor slightly in turn, as if you do one side fully before the other one, the spring will bend over and could jump out at you. While doing this disconnect the A-Arms at the engine side, where they meet the K-member and leave them connected at the outer edge/ball joint edge. You then need to fiddle with jacks to raise the A-arm whilst keeping the spring located in the perch.

One compressor broke and one bent over, so I can't install the other spring till I buy another set.

If I'd realised this was going to be such a pain, I would have either went with Spohns coilover setup and either boxed and powdercoated the stock A-arms or went with his coil over A Arms.

I'm going to go out now and get some other work done, nuts torqued to spec, antiroll bar reinstalled etc.

If you need any more advice then let me know.

 

I have a known straightness issue. I need to assemble my whole front end so that it can be flat-bedded to the body shop to be straightened. I can get 4 of the 6 K-member bolts in. Those i'm not worried about.
I'm currently waiting for a spring compressor to come in the mail. When it shows up i'll try out your suggestions.
Thanks

 

After extensive research and looking at pictures of different spring compressors, purchasing one, and waiting for it to arrive, it came in. Let me tell ya, it's amazing how easy it is to do things when you have the right tool. Advance AND Autozone had the wrong compressor. Advance cam close but the fingers weren't offset enough to accomodate my new springs. Kept slipping.
So anyway it took about 20 minutes to get BOTH springs in the front of my car. It's a beautiful thing. Unfortunately both inner tie-rods hit the new k-member. Hopefully when the shop straightens out the one frame rail that isn't quite right it'll also take care of this issue. Knowing my luck though.......
Thanks for the help.

 

Do you have pics of the wrong compressors you were trying?
IIRC, when I last did springs, the Autozone loaner I used looked
just like the one in the Ebay add and worked fine.

I just picked up a used set of Eibach Pros, and a pair of cut
Moog 5664's to try with my spohn k-member/A-arm setup
when it eventually gets here.. (ordered 3/30/07)

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...apo_t75761.jpg

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...pbi/648603.jpg

Can't seem to find a pic of the other one.
Both of the above have the same problem. The fingers aren't offset enough from each other to fit my new spring. The compressor would end up going off center and then dropping a finger. They kept slipping so I bought one, brand MIT, worked perfectly. It's fingers were more offset.

 

What about these?



Will they work, if not what about the jack under the a arm method?

 

Those are similar to my MacPherson's. Mine didn't work. The spring diamter was too wide to fit in the fingers, unsafe.
They may work for you if they fit. Just make sure you compress them evenly.
I also had to deal with Spohn A-arms which make it even more difficult to install a new spring. Jack under the stock a-arm may work. Don't know. I do know that a jack under the Spohn A-arm does NOT work. The spring absolutely has to be compressed 4 inches before you can get the bottom of the spring over the a-arm pocket.

 

Well what springs are you using?

 

The Moog 5662's.