cheap but effective subframe?
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
i like the jegs bolt in ones $179 a pop
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
i definately want a weld it. the last ones i bought were south west concepts and ran $110. worked great also. can't find them anymore though.
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iTrader: (5)
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
the bolt ins have more brackets to weld to the floorpan which is why i recommended them. They're what I run and involved no floor cutting.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
Hey, xpndbl3
Are those "Jegster" sfc's you are referring to? Have you got a p/n for those? I cannot seem to find them.
Thanks!
Are those "Jegster" sfc's you are referring to? Have you got a p/n for those? I cannot seem to find them.
Thanks!
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
yes they're jegster subframes....let me dig out a part number here
550-40053 off jegs.com
550-40053 off jegs.com
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Car: 89 TA
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Sunny LaCrosse FL
Car: 86 Firebird
Engine: LG4 feedback controlled 350
Transmission: used to be T5 now T56
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
Hey, xpndbl3
Don't want to be a pain, but do you happen to have any pictures of those installed?
Thanks!
Don't want to be a pain, but do you happen to have any pictures of those installed?
Thanks!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
no pictures but they run along the outer edge and weld to the rear LCA mount and to the front section of the subframe. Very easy to line them up and install.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
Sounds like a similar design to my Hotchkiss ones. Very simple design, but $235 at summit, HSS-4001
Maybe buy one set, then measure them and make up your own that are the same. Just looking at mine, they're very simple, some 2" square tube and a few 1/4" plates.
Maybe buy one set, then measure them and make up your own that are the same. Just looking at mine, they're very simple, some 2" square tube and a few 1/4" plates.
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From: Germany
Car: Pontiac Firebird T-Top
Engine: V6 3.1 170HP and LSX swap in mind
Transmission: TH700-stock
Axle/Gears: 3.23 -stock
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
I'm been looking also into Jegs.

Because i'm worried about rust eating it's way throught in unseen spaces between the subframe ties and the cars body. So unbolting them now and then will be a good option. But will they do the Job with out welding? Are the mounting holes up front allready there? And where do you weld if you have to?

Because i'm worried about rust eating it's way throught in unseen spaces between the subframe ties and the cars body. So unbolting them now and then will be a good option. But will they do the Job with out welding? Are the mounting holes up front allready there? And where do you weld if you have to?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
No, you'd have to drill holes to bolt them in. Well, I think the rear ones probably share the body LCA bolt hole (looks like my hotchkiss ones do).
You buy some pre-weld galvanizing primer and spray the areas you're going to weld. Then try to get more of that stuff in there after. It's zinc rich, and acts as a sacrificial anode (or cathode, I always mix it up). It prevents rust in those hard to reach areas after welding - exactly this purpose.
The bolt in ones have a tendancy to "egg out" the bolt holes from the stress. Bolt them in then weld them, then soak it in the zinc rich welding primer and call it a day.
You buy some pre-weld galvanizing primer and spray the areas you're going to weld. Then try to get more of that stuff in there after. It's zinc rich, and acts as a sacrificial anode (or cathode, I always mix it up). It prevents rust in those hard to reach areas after welding - exactly this purpose.
The bolt in ones have a tendancy to "egg out" the bolt holes from the stress. Bolt them in then weld them, then soak it in the zinc rich welding primer and call it a day.
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Trumbull CT
Car: 87 TA clone
Engine: 70/70 Turbo 5.3 LS
Transmission: bullet proof 2004R
Axle/Gears: ford 8.8, 3.55 gears
Re: cheap but effective subframe?
i made custom thru floor subframes where i cut into the rear LCA mounts and right through the floor pan right up to the from subframe, i thought that would do but im not totally sure bc the front mounting i could only weld really 2 sides bc the others where covered and impossible to weld, i think i might look into the jegsters as well since they run nicely with the body and stick to the outer edge. my subframes are lik 8-12" in from the outher edge.
would both these installed be to much? and how much weight are we talkin the jesters ones weigh?
the ones i made where of .083 2" square tubing so it was light.
would both these installed be to much? and how much weight are we talkin the jesters ones weigh?
the ones i made where of .083 2" square tubing so it was light.
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