Wheel hop problems, Please help
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From: Shreveport Louisianna Barksdale AFB
Car: 85 Camaro
Engine: forged 383 11:1
Transmission: T56 TDP STAGE 2
Axle/Gears: 99 ws6 3.42 posi rear
Wheel hop problems, Please help
I just got a 350 crate motor installed, with a cam slighlty worked heads intake and carb hedman headers and a cutout...With the stock non posi rear i have it was smoking my old tires all day!! 
But i just put some new tires in the rearand now when im at 1/2-3/4 throttle launch the tires grib and go and after the 3rd second the rear end just hops up and down like crazy. A friend behind me told me it looked like my rear end was going to come off my car and all i can feel in the car is a crazy amount shaking and i hear this tremendous amount of smacking coming from the back!After researching wheel hop im VERY concerned that i will soon brake my rear end or my tranny.Im wondering if this may not be wheel hop but something else. Any info would be great guys.Thanks,Jeremy
But i just put some new tires in the rearand now when im at 1/2-3/4 throttle launch the tires grib and go and after the 3rd second the rear end just hops up and down like crazy. A friend behind me told me it looked like my rear end was going to come off my car and all i can feel in the car is a crazy amount shaking and i hear this tremendous amount of smacking coming from the back!After researching wheel hop im VERY concerned that i will soon brake my rear end or my tranny.Im wondering if this may not be wheel hop but something else. Any info would be great guys.Thanks,Jeremy 
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Wheel hop problems, Please help
That sounds more aggressive than normal wheelhop. Start looking at your rear suspension, I'd guess something is broken.
LCA's
torque arm
shocks/shock mounting areas
rear springs
If those are all in place, and in one piece, check your rear shocks. ie, bounce the rear and see how long it takes to settle. If worn out, replace them and most likely the rear springs as well
LCA's
torque arm
shocks/shock mounting areas
rear springs
If those are all in place, and in one piece, check your rear shocks. ie, bounce the rear and see how long it takes to settle. If worn out, replace them and most likely the rear springs as well
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,435
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Wheel hop problems, Please help
These cars are NOTORIOUS for wheel hop. It was a carefully designed-in feature, provided at no charge by the factory. 
Yes you WILL break stuff if that goes on; gears, axles, U-joints, etc. It's really hard on all that, because it's like a full-power clutch dump every 150 milliseconds or so for as long as it goes on.
As has been posted innumerable times before by myself and others, the cure is LCA relocation brackets, which repair the defective geometry in the design. Lowering, whether deliberate or just the result of 20-yr-old sagging crappy stock springs, just makes it worse. ALOT worse.
The stock LCAs themselves are also quite weak, and store (and release) a great deal of energy by bending. Basically they act like an whole "extra" spring in the system, in a place that needs to be inflexible. Better ones of those will help. I have the Lakewood ones myself; those and the brackets together only cost about $150, and made a HUGE difference to the car's launch.
As also posted, springs and shocks can go a long way toward controlling it; and it doesn't make sense to cover up worn-out used-up stock junk in those areas by modding something else. So make sure you have good springs and shocks installed. But, the ultimate cure, up to the point that you have enough power and traction to where the stock torque arm becomes the next weakness, is the LCARBs and LCAs.
Do a search on "wheel hop" or "relocation". You'll find that your post is embarrassingly redundant.
Yes you WILL break stuff if that goes on; gears, axles, U-joints, etc. It's really hard on all that, because it's like a full-power clutch dump every 150 milliseconds or so for as long as it goes on.
As has been posted innumerable times before by myself and others, the cure is LCA relocation brackets, which repair the defective geometry in the design. Lowering, whether deliberate or just the result of 20-yr-old sagging crappy stock springs, just makes it worse. ALOT worse.
The stock LCAs themselves are also quite weak, and store (and release) a great deal of energy by bending. Basically they act like an whole "extra" spring in the system, in a place that needs to be inflexible. Better ones of those will help. I have the Lakewood ones myself; those and the brackets together only cost about $150, and made a HUGE difference to the car's launch.
As also posted, springs and shocks can go a long way toward controlling it; and it doesn't make sense to cover up worn-out used-up stock junk in those areas by modding something else. So make sure you have good springs and shocks installed. But, the ultimate cure, up to the point that you have enough power and traction to where the stock torque arm becomes the next weakness, is the LCARBs and LCAs.
Do a search on "wheel hop" or "relocation". You'll find that your post is embarrassingly redundant.
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