The seal [actually I believe that this shaft has two] needs to be replaced. My gearbox is w/4-bolt coverplate that has adjustment screw on it. For such an old car, I feel fortunate that this is the only leak of any consequence [knock on wood, for the supersticious part of me]. My factory manual makes the job appear fairly simple. I can easily borrow one of those pitman arm pullers.
Is the job simple, and most importantly, can I expect decent results? All I know at this point, is to be certain to mark the shaft and arm for proper installation.
Rock has a nitrile seal kit for a 4-bolt gearbox by BCA/International for $17.64, listed under 'complete pitman shaft seal kit'.
They list many other assorted kits under 'steering gear pitman shaft seal', but this appears to be the right one.


Once Again,

Seth

 

.

 

I've rebuilt several of these boxes, usually with the kit from Autozone (yes, I prefer the 'zone, primarily because they maintain computer records of purchases so I don't have to save the receipt-and they're now RIGHT around the corner). Got 50+k miles on one with no subsequent leaks. The complete rebuild kit runs around $30 and the pitman shaft seal kit runs around $18-20 to my recollection.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ng+rebuild+box

has some pics and info on the complete dis-re-assembly.

You can replace the pitman seal without having to pull the worm gear, and its associated ball bearings, out. You'll have to remove the box, back out the adjusting screw/nut, remove the top cover and replace top and bottom seals.

Bench adjusting it afterwards may be needed. If you're stuck on the 'feel' it has now, just make note of how many turns out you do on the adjusting nut and reset to the same place.

Leaks at the input shaft are fairly common and its seal can be replaced also without removing the worm gear assembly. If this seal is worn and replaced it will change the 'feel' of the steering, though.

Any questions don't hesitate to ask. Been away on vacation and just now loafing around the boards.

Mike

 

I have been too busy with my ill father to repair the leak.
I cannot believe that my question was posted one year ago.
As the output shaft seal pair are the only wear items, can I do this the simple way, by dropping the arm, and doing the seal replacement on the car?
Further thoughts on the subject are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Seth

 

Wow, how'd I get there? I mean REALLY? Looked at the date and thought it was a week ago....

It can probably be done with the box in the car. There's a snap ring holding the seals in from the bottom... as long as everything is clean and you remember where the adjustment nut is supposed to be.

 

Double check the hoses. I THOUGHT I had a seal leak and it turned out to be the return hose. By the way, O'reily's has a replacement 2 1/4 (IROC) gear box. I paid $140 exchange. Everywhere else wanted $300 + for the high ratio unit. Do you need a used one? I'll let mine go for $50!
And the pitman arm puller was a "free" rental at Advance/'Zone.

 

You are correct about leaks not always being where they seem to be.
I had four real leaks. Pump shaft [a seal change did nothing, because the front shaft bushing is the real fluid retaining piece], both hoses, and the gearbox. So, I have a nice rebuilt pump from EGR, or was it AGR?, and new hoses. The steering joints are loose from running with dripped-in steering oil, so they need replacement. My tires are new, but will suffer if I don't start the list of repairs this month, beginning with the seal[s].

Now as far as the link rod and inner/outer tie rods go, are there any still available that are NOT made behind a rice paddy?

No China or India on my car.

Seth