Alright guys just got the car back from the shop... again.

I have tried everything and the car still hops on straight line acceleration if I really get on it.

Rebuilt to stock 4 bolt 350. Attached to Stock T-5.

Moser 9" Rear, Detroit Locker, 4.10 Gears.

Spohn: Rear Drag Sway Bar, Panhard Bar, Subframe Connectors, Lower Control Arms, Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets (Lower Notch), Torque Arm (Pinion Angle -2) With Forward and Rear Driveshaft Loops, Crossmember.

Inland Empire Aluminum Driveshaft with Splicer 1350 U-Joint

Lakewood 50/50 Drag Shocks.

After the tires start hopping, I'm getting a really loud banging near the front of the vehicle. I am wondering if maybe the motor mounts are causing the entire driveline to shake, thus causing the wheel hop.

I still have stock springs but I really doubt that would cause the problem, considering the ridiculous amounts of Spohn goodies I threw at my car.

Save me.

 

when I had extreme wheel hop on my car, it was because one tire leaked down to 10 psi and the other tire was still at 25psi. Filled it back up and solved the issue. Otherwise, some rear drag bags might help as well, what tires are you running?

 

tires are at equal pressure.

Nitto 555R, 275/60/15

 

thats half your problem right there. not knocking what you have but nittos are not a good drag tire. i ran back to back runs way back when i had my old motor i lost almost a tenth at the 60 going to nittos from my pepboys hankook tires. the nittos were brand new and wheelhopped bad. try another set of tires.

 

I had wheel hop problems with B.F.G. Drag Radials. Minimum recomended pressure was 18 PSI. I followed the advice of others at the track, and dropped the pressure to 14 PSI. The wheel hop stopped,and the tires are holding up.

 

got to agree here i have no suspension upgrades yet and no wheel hop it will take all the abuse i can give runnin bf goodric radial ta the tires grip like no other on the car

 

once this snow clears up, i'll drop the pressure and give it a shot...

otherwise i have no idea lol

 

when you replace your tires, go to a mickey thompson et street radial. you'll be MUCH happier. also, what's your pinion angle set at? if it's too far in one direction or another, it'll make things act up.

 

Where/how does the torque arm mount? Check the setup, see if it's come loose at all.
How's the tranny mount? What style? Condition? Again, check bolts and looseness.
What are the rear springs, stock?

Motor mounts, rubber, poly, condition? (age, when were they replaced?)

And obviously tires have a big effect. Play with pressure, try this and that.

BF radial TA's?!? I thought those are JUNK. I imagine they won't hop, they'll just spin like crazy. I thought those are basic street tires, a lot of muscle cars have them due to the cool white lettering (there is something to be said about the embossed white letters... they just scream "This car is BOSS man!"

 

BFG rad TA's that hook? I think that's the first time I've ever heard that.

I went consistent 1.69 60fts on 315/35/17 nitto DR's, there not that bad of tire. Before a few mods I went mid 1.7's on them, then went bottom 1.7's on the BFG dr's(same size/tune). I went back to the nitto for life expectancy. There wasn't enough difference in my track times vs I drove the car everyday and didn't want to be putting tires on it every month. - All you 15" guys should be able to out 60' a stick car on 17's.

I'd check everything out close, on a lift if possible. Bushings, bolts, joints, etc. With everything else you have, new springs would be a cheap investment, hell they're 20 years old now. Tires do play a big part, 555's are designed for handling, they may be your issue or part of it. - Wheel hop is all springs and shocks. Wheel hop is the springs/shocks inability to control the suspension though it's range of motion. Although different suspension geometry may over come the issue, ultimately that just put the system into a lay out that the springs/shocks could handle.

 

i think he meant bfg comp t/a or the g force t/a which are drag radials.

 

I'm no expert but I've seen stick guys go 4-5 degrees negative pinion angle, especially with a poly mounted torque arm. -2 may not be enough.

20 PSI should be a fine starting point with those Nitto Drags but they might want less, I only have experience with the 17" versions(both). Most 275/60 radials want something around 20psi from what my friends run. The fact that it's a radial tire and not a bias ply slick causes a lot of controversy with stick vs. automatic guys. A lot claim that shocking a radial tire with a solid clutch dump will blaze even the best radials out there. With anything under 500hp, I'd guess that a quick release, opposed to an instant clutch dump could make the tire useable..

Your shocks are most likely the problem. Our cars need a STIFF rebound in the shock design and a 50/50 lakewood might ride nice and squat OK when you mat it but it probably can not control a wild tire that is trying to hook. Most of the double adjustable shocks that f-body guys use are stiffened up almost 100% of the shocks potential. Weight transfer and proper torque arm action should plant the tire, not rear shock squat.

 

I ran -6 with my stick - the need for that much angle equats to too long of a torque arm or low power. It takes more angle to get the same reaction from a longer pivot. The jegster unit is short and anything over about -4 is excessive with any kind of decent power even for a stick. An auto shouldn't need over -3 unless the geometry is wrong. - I don't agree on the shocks. The mustang guys need tight valving due to the short length of their upper arms. The short arms react fast and hit too hard putting the tires in rebound. The only way you would need overly tight valving on our cars is if you are running too much pinion angle and/or too much control arm angle. All I ever ran was cheapy monroe sensa-junks with around 25k miles on them to cut 1.66 60's. If you go overly tight on the shocks it's very hard to get any re-hit during gear changes.

 

The Pinion Angle is set at -2, which is what Spohn Reccomended to me for Street/Strip.

Shocks are brand new 50/50 Lakewoods, Stock Motor Mounts, New Rubber Trans Mount, All bolts are tight.

I'll try the 20PSI with the Nittos Today on the Way to Work... Otherwise I'll look into changing that Pinion Angle.

 

if you're only at -2, that's not your issue. New shocks - I'm leaning more towards the tires. Any one you know could loan you some different wheels/tires for a quick try?

 

yea my bad there bf goodrich g-force radial t/a

 

oddly enough, i noticed i'm getting the problem when i slam on the brakes too.

whaaaaaaaat is goin on here?

 

ditch the DR's.. i had 275/50-15's mt radials down to 11psi and it hooked for nothing.. 1.81 or higher.. for me it worked best at that pressure so dont give me comments about it guys.. switched to a 26x8.5 slick and 4.30 gear and ran 1.71.. then a 28.5x11.50-15 hoosier qtp and went a best of 1.65 still spinning.. stick cars need a big soft sidewall.. drop the pressure to about 15 and see what happens.. dont forget to raise it back up if you plan to drive around.. for the record, the DR's i had did NOT hook on the street.. i spun all of first gear and a nice solid chirp in second..

about that bang up front.. it could be the motor mounts.. i run solid mounts so i wouldnt know the condition.. you should also try the middle hole on the LCARB's.. uh.......... ya

i used to have wheelhop with the stock torque arm but threw on a spohn torque arm and LCARB's and it went away.. i got junk napa replacement shocks, stock springs, poly bushing LCA, panhard and torque arm, LCARB's on the middle hole and a 1" swaybar with poly bushings..

 

I have only had wheel hop in my car twice. I've gone from old worn out stock suspension to all new everything. Once it wheel hopped and clunked when the tranny mount broke (this was with all the old stuff). The second time I had bad wheel hop was due to losing wheel weights. I'm wondering if either of these things is your problem, just cause the tranny mount is new doesn't mean it can't fail and it would deffinately explain the banging.

 

I'm guessing he has the divorce-mounted spohn tq arm, thus he's eliminated his trans mount troubles.

I'd still guess tires or shocks. - 5678TA, he listed NT555's, not 555DR's. Also, I went 1.66 60' on nitto dr's on a 17" wheel with a stick.