hey guys few quick a-arm questions.


i'm getting ready to get the majority of the front end suspension and part of the steering re-built.

i goign to replace the front springs as well and struts.

my question about the a-arm is:

once the spring is out - how hard is it to get the a-arm out???? shouldnt be bad just 2 bolts but i dont want any surprises so that why i'm asking

also how hard is it to pop out the bushings because i'm placing them too???

then i'm gona scrap off the surface rust and soak them in POR-15

anyone have some quick answers?

 

That's pretty much all there is to it....

It'd be smart to go to the buzzard and get another pair so you can do your POR-15 thing to those BEFORE you disable your car, and take them to your local Firestone store type place, and get them to swap the bushings. Those are an EXTREME PITA with hand tools. That way, rather than tear the car apart and disable it and have to deal with all that while walking, you get to just take it apart and put it back together right then and there.

 

well i dont want remove the lower ball joint. is there a tool i can buy or rent to pop out the bushings?

 

You don't have to, just take the castle nut off and a big hammer and wack the stud through. Then take the whole a-arm to a shop to have the bushings pressed in and out. Make sure your balljoints are in good shape because now is the time to replace them if you are thinking about it.

 

One or both bolts per side will likely be seized to the sleeve of the bushing. Be prepared to cuss like a sailor. One was frozen per side in my IROC. Knocking the two loose took an hour or more per side--set aside a morning. Needless to say, I used anti-seize on the fresh bolts. You also might take a look at the hole for the end links. Often they're egged out from worn end links (I had mine repaired). I've used Prothane bushings for the past several years with no complaint. Finally, maneuvering the arms back into place can also be frustrating. Deep breath, count to a 1,000.

JamesC

 

That is great until you mushroom it, and fubar the threads.

I back the castle nut off so there is room there, then hit the spindle with a hammer (NOT the stud), this should distort the spindle housing just enough to let go of the taper. Then since you still have the castle nut on, but backed off 1/2" it will use the spring force to unseat everything, and the castle nut will catch it so parts don't go flying, and you don't hurt yourself.

 

Or you could just use a pickle fork...

 

Thats good advice i would have assumed he had a jack under the a-arm or he was using a spring compressor. Also, i've never managed to miss and knock the threads or i have been replacing the balljoints so the thought never crossed my mind. Or...i have had the a-arms bolts get seized in the bushing.

I have never had luck with a pickle fork with balljoints, hammer on the stud has always been easier faster. I can't remember if it was the angle or if i wasn't able to get enough force from the side.